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Tasting the latest release of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

Three preeminent merchants join forces to showcase the latest release from Domaine Marquis d'Angerville followed by a lunch. Ella Lister attended and chooses her favourite wines.

Three competing UK merchants – Corney & Barrow, Justerini & Brooks, and Armit – came together in March to hold a tasting of the latest vintage from Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, with a lunch afterwards to taste older vintages alongside food.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is situated in the heart of Volnay, in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. It is owned and run by Guillaume d’Angerville, who left his Paris banking job to take over in 2003 following the sudden death of his father, Jacques d’Angerville.

This time last year d’Angerville described his tenth vintage – 2013 – as Cistercian in its austerity. Just released, the 2014 vintage is more opulent, but not exactly sybaritic. ‘I would put it with the cool vintages,’ says d’Angerville.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville has had a challenging few years, with 2009 being ‘the last normal vintage we’ve had; the last that was relaxed,’ says its owner. The domaine has since been plagued by hail, and 2014 was no exception, with a hailstorm on 30th June. The team at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville lost no time in treating the bruised vines with valerian and arnica (the domaine has been biodynamic since 2006), and though yields were affected, quality was preserved, resulting in classy, energetic wines.

With lunch, the focus was the premier cru Champans, often overlooked in the shadow of Clos des Ducs. Champans is the domaine’s largest holding, at 3.98 hectares, with vines averaging 35 years old. As we tasted the warmer 2009 and the cooler 2011 side-by-side, another intriguing contrast emerged echoing the 2014 and 2013 dynamic.

‘The aromas in the winery were very exuberant, and became more distinguished during élévage,’ recalls d’Angerville of the 2009 vintage. The 2011 – served from magnum, was more poised and restrained. ‘I continue to believe this vintage has been overshadowed,’ declared d’Angerville, and this wine certainly deserves a second look.

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