There's some variability, but most 2009 reds are rich, expressive, aromatic and vibrant, writes Sarah Marsh MW, They're lovely now yet have great ageing potential too. Gevrey-Chambertin shows smooth tannins and an emphasis on red fruit and well-defined minerality, the grands crus rivalling 2005. Purple-fruited Morey-St-Denis reds are seductive and spicy, even at village level in some cases, while Chambolle-Musigny wines have sensual, satiny tannins and a heady scent. In Vougeot, Clos de Vougeot itself is as uneven in quality as ever despite the favourable year, but Vosne-Romanée is more consistently good, with scrumptious red fruit and satin tannins. The Nuits-Saint-Georges are gorgeous, with a focus on forest fruit, oriental spice with tannin, and a smoother than usual minerality. From Côte de Beaune' s hill of Corton, wines are rich and ripe, in particular those of Savigny-Lès Beaune, Chorey-Lès Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses, while wines from the commune of Beaune are generally plump and soft with well-rounded tannins. Good year, too, for well-mannered Pommard, with plenty of plump red fruit on the Beaune side and more supple tannins on the Volnay side. Volnays have a heady perfume, silky tannins and ethereal fruit. (Sarah Marsh's full pick of the vintage appears in Decanter magazine Jan 2011, on sale now.)

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