Report: Tenuta de Biserno

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  • Monday 22 November 2010

Tenuta de Biserno, the brainchild of Marchese Lodovico Antinori, is a 90-hectare estate in western Tuscany

Tenuta di Biserno

Tenuta de Biserno, the brainchild of Marchese Lodovico Antinori, is a 90-hectare estate in western Tuscany, on the coast among the hills of Bibbona in the Upper Maremma. Antinori started the project after selling his renowned Bolgheri estate Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. Bibbona borders DOC Bolgheri but the terroir is different: although both areas are better suited to Bordeaux varietals than the Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc does exceptionally at Biserno as well as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

Il Pino di Biserno 2005 14.5%
Deep colour and rich, gamey nose. Lifted, smoky, pencil shaving aromas. Palate very mineral, savoury and crisp, with cocoa-tinged black fruit. Lovely. Good length, wonderful complexity for such young vines. Now-2015 17
£29.35 Four Walls Wine, Sussex (01243 535 360)

Il Pino di Biserno 2006 14.5%
Bright ruby-purple. Lifted and oaky nose. Supple fruit, very round and fresh and spicy. Warm alcohol and some coconutty oak on the palate with mineral intensity. Dark, spicy finish. 2011-2018 17.5
£39.95-42.50 Corks Out (0161 881 9663), Portland Wine Company, Cheshire (0161 928 0357)

Il Pino di Biserno 2007 14.5%
Brilliant ruby red. Wonderfully aromatic and complex. Notes of violets, smoke and spice. Very elegant. Palate shows delicious balance, wonderfully crisp acidity and a weightless feel in the mouth that belies its 14.5% alcohol. Wonderfully supple tannins. Supremely smooth, with a savoury, chocolatey finish. Fabulous. 2013-2020 18+
£31.36 Corney & Barrow branches (020 7265 2400)

Biserno 2006 15%
Deep and dark colour. Nose rich and spicy, with delicious black cherry sweetness apparent. Palate firm, with very fine tannins and full weight of ripe, juicy fruit. Very youthful now. Fresh and pure-fruited. 2015-2020 17.5
n/a UK www.biserno.it

Biserno 2007 15%
Mid-bright ruby. Ethereal nose, quite floral, with herbal tarragon-like notes and smoky perfume at the back. Palate lovely and fresh and smooth. Carries the alcohol well, though a little warm on the palate. Fleshy, but the tannins noticeable on the finish. Very mineral and savoury. Good, long finish, intensely mineral. Very good indeed. 2014-20+ 18.5
n/a UK www.biserno.it

Lodovico 2007 15%
Dense ruby colour. Nose intense, perfumed, deliciously enticing, smoky, shaved wood aromas. Palate totally smooth and sexy, almost gluggable. Seriously fruity, deliciously approachable but with fine tannic structure and balance. Alcohol doesn’t show except on warmth of the mineral, blackcurrant finish. Wow. Show-stopping, wonderful stuff. 2014-2025 19+

£255 (magnum) Corney & Barrow branches (020 7265 2400)

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