Rhône vintages: four to lay down and four to drink now
Have a few Rhône vintages in your cellar but unsure of the best time to drink them? Matt Walls recommends four vintages that are drinking well now, and four which need some more time.
Which offers more pleasure: a wine from a great vintage, but too young, inexpressive and closed? Or a wine from a modest vintage that’s mature, aromatically open and ready to drink? Surely there’s no contest.
When it comes to enjoying the greatest Rhône wines, identifying the best vintages is the easy part. Knowing when best to open them is more difficult – but arguably more important.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for four Rhône wines to lay down and four to drink now
Four to lay down: 2015, 2013, 2010, 2005
Four to drink up: 2014, 2011, 2008, 2004
Four vintages to lay down
2015
Indisputably a great vintage for northern Rhône reds, but while most 2015 Crozes-Hermitage and some St-Josephs are ready to go, wines from the best terroirs still have many years before they reach their full potential. I would wait another couple of years for top St-Joseph, Cornas and entry-level Côte-Rôtie, and until the mid-2030s for top Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.
This is a very good vintage in the southern Rhône: ripe and sunny, and the wines are quicker to mature. Vacqueyras is largely drinking well, but some will benefit from another year or two before they reach peak drinking. The best wines of Gigondas and Châteauneuf will only start hitting their stride from 2028.
2013
A disappointing vintage across much of France, but the northern Rhône fared relatively well. The year got off to a slow start due to a cool, wet spring which made for an extended growing season and a late harvest. The resulting reds often have forthright acidity and robust tannins that need time to soften.
A tasting last year with Jean-Louis Chave of his 2012, 2013 and 2014 Hermitage demonstrated just how far behind 2013 is compared to the vintages on either side.
The southern Rhône endured a similar growing season, but the wines need even longer to soften: the cool spring led to severe coulure in the Grenache, so blends tend to feature atypical quantities of Syrah and Mourvèdre, further bolstering their rugged frames.
Though many wines are beginning to enter their drinking windows, most need longer than they might in an average year, so you’d be wise to leave your Gigondas, Châteauneuf, Hermitage and top Côte-Rôtie for a few more years before opening.
2010
There wasn’t a huge crop in 2010, but quality throughout the Rhône, both north and south, was outstanding. After 13 years, you’d hope that these would be ready to drink by now, but I’m continually surprised at how long these wines are taking to come round.
Reds from the southern Rhône are beginning to open up, including many Châteauneufs, but most 2010s I’ve encountered recently will continue to improve for a long time yet.
If you enjoy wines with plenty of primary fruit and dramatic tannins, you might want to start opening them now as their complexity begins to develop. But I’d advise waiting another two or three years for most top southern Rhônes, and at least the same if not a little longer for top northern Rhônes. I won’t be opening any 2010 Hermitage until 2030.
2005
Like 2013, the 2005 growing season took its time to warm up. What followed was a very hot, dry summer, making for powerful, driving, structured wines that are proving remarkably unhurried.
Though most southern Rhônes have now comfortably entered their drinking windows, I’m still encountering wines today that would benefit from more time in bottle, such as Clos des Papes and Moulin de la Gardette’s Ventabren.
Even the most stubborn northern Rhônes are beginning to open up now, but for those who enjoy the unique flavours and textures of old wines, 2005 is a vintage you can confidently keep in the cellar for many years to come.
Four vintages to drink now
2014
A fairly recent vintage, but one that’s drinking well already. The year got off to a promising start, but then the season was hampered by a wet summer, then rain again at harvest. It produced a lighter style of red. Less promising terroirs delivered reds that were lean and green, but superior sites turned out wines with finesse and refreshing drinkability.
In the south, Gigondas fared well (for producers such as Moulin de la Gardette, Domaine Les Semelles de Vent, and Mas des Restanques); some Châteauneufs were also very good (from Clos des Papes, Rotem & Mounir Saouma, and Henri Bonneau). In the north, Cornas fared well, with Guillaume Gilles, Matthieu Barret and Alain Voge all making very fine examples.
Red wines are lighter in 2014, but it’s an exceptional year for whites. No hurry to drink the more ageworthy styles; Jean-Louis Chave’s white Hermitage should drink well until 2060 and beyond.
2011
A reasonable vintage in the southern Rhône, but one without any great structure or focus, so this is a good candidate to pull from the cellar if you have any.
It was better in the north, the damp, cool summer making for wines with energy and precision rather than concentration. Cornas, Hermitage and top Côte-Rôtie are largely drinking well now, and the best should continue to do so for the next five to 10 years.
2008
A notoriously difficult vintage throughout the Rhône Valley, cool and wet in both the north and south, with damp conditions during harvest. Reds lack ripeness and depth, and most were best drunk young – few will have gained much interest with age. If you have any left, drink up.
No vintage is without its successes however, so keep an open mind. If a wine shows poorly on opening, try decanting for an hour or two before you give up all hope. Recent 2008s that have impressed are Domaine Gonon’s neat and drinkable St-Joseph and Domaine de la Janasse’s deliciously complex Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes.
2004
A vintage that delivered a crop of enjoyably crisp and precise reds in both the northern and southern Rhône, but not always the most ripe or generous – as with 2014, some lacked depth and power. If you have any left in your collection, now is the time to pull the corks.
The situation is different for white wines, however – 2004 is a great year for whites throughout the Rhône. The best Châteauneuf and white Hermitage will continue to offer beautiful drinking and great complexity for many years to come.
To lay down or drink up?
The wines below are listed by their vintage, in the same order as above.
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Domaine la Ligière, Le Mourre de la Caille, Vacqueyras, Rhône, France, 2015
Intensely smoky, struck flint, fireworks and smoked sausage. Only medium bodied, an enjoyably fluid and drinkable style. Big, crisp, crunchy tannins that are a touch dry and unruly, but this is a loud, fun wine. Surprisingly long. Not the most subtle or refined, but it's authentic, with enjoyable aromatic complexity. I would hold on for now, in the hope that the tannins calm down a little. An old-vine cuvée, where grapes were hand-harvested, destemmed, and there was no filtration, fining or added yeasts.
2015
Domaine la LigièreVacqueyras
Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2013
Much more serious in demeanour compared to both the 2012 and 2014 vintages of this cuvée, and still quite introverted at the time of tasting. A firm style on the palate, with rigid tannins still and graphite minerality. It will be excellent, in a fairly dark, strict style, when it's ready.
2013
Domaine JL ChaveHermitage
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2010
The art of skilled blending is on display here, with the meld of 65% Grenache, 15% Mouvedre and 15% Syrah, plus some Cinsault, Clairette and others. The resulting is a long, luscious palate that is like a comforting warm embrace. The generous belly of this wine has rich savoury tones, but it’s the delicious harmony of fruit flavours framed by gentle tannins that gets you swooning.
2010
Domaine du Vieux TélégrapheChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Moulin de la Gardette, Ventabren, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2005
Quite reserved on the nose at the time of tasting; even after 17 years this still feels as if it needs a few more years before it starts to give up its secrets. Good tannic grip, so it's in no rush. Remarkably young, I would hold this until at least 2025 before broaching, and it will likely live into the 2030s.
2005
Moulin de la GardetteGigondas
M Chapoutier, Le Méal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2014
Aromatically a different register to the 2014 de l'Orée tasted directly beforehand. This is less richly fruited, with a more herbal, almost vegetal note, like tomato stalk. A little closed on the nose. Full-bodied, and grand. Good acidity that feels firm and gently steely. Great amplitude, a sensation that stays with you into the length. A forceful white Hermitage, that still has great freshness, energy and (relatively speaking for a white Hermitage) precise acidity. So long. A surging tsunami of a wine.
2014
M ChapoutierHermitage
Mas de Libian, La Calade, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2011
Due to a faulty vat, all of Mas de Libian’s wines were ruined this year. This has squishy ripe blackberry fruit, taking on an animal hint. Ready to drink now, but it has lots of pleasure still to give. A little touch of cassis and blackcurrant bush to the fruit. Good concentration, great energy, still with enough tannin to stand up to a meal. Grown on galets roulés soils, destemmed, followed by a 21-day maceration with light extraction. 30% aged in Stockinger demi-muids for 9 months.
2011
Mas de LibianCôtes du Rhône
Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2008
Some dried leaf character on the nose now, and the acidity is quite marked. Tannins are a little dry, and the overriding character is savoury, bright and complex. Salty on the finish, with more leaf litter notes. No great breadth or power, and not the most elegant vintage of Clos des Papes, but this still has freshness and clarity. Very successful for the vintage. Drink now.
2008
Clos des PapesChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine JP Jamet, Côte Brune, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2004
Distinctly smoky, with burnt rosemary, potpourri and dried rose. Not the most concentrated vintage, but certainly fresh and complex. Good acidity, the tannins aren’t necessarily the smoothest, they're still present. Cool, refreshing menthol core, with beautiful rose notes - a very structural, mineral style. Not hugely long, but impressive nonetheless.
2004
Domaine JP JametCôte-Rôtie
