Some Cornas estates, like Domaine Clape, feel as ancient and unchanging as the granite hills themselves. Others, like Domaine Alain Voge, go through periods of flux.
When this is due to vineyards being ripped out, bought or sold, then the whole profile of an estate can be altered. That’s not the case at Voge. Instead, it’s due to the coming and going of people and the unavoidable change that entails.
I visited Lionel Fraisse, the current managing director at Domaine Alain Voge, to taste a selection of its Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes and St-Péray Fleur de Crussol wines. I wanted to see how these relatively affordable classics have changed over the years, and how they’re looking today.