California Syrah: top Santa Barbara County wines
Santa Barbara County Syrahs are some of the most expressive and nuanced in California. From the 'Syrah capital' of Ballard Canyon to cool-climate Santa Maria Valley and saline examples from Sta Rita Hills, Matthew Luczy picks out some must-try wines.
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At the southern end of California’s Central Coast, Santa Barbara County is an epicentre for expressive, nuanced Syrah. Exposure to the Pacific Ocean and the Transverse Ranges provide insulation from the desert-like conditions surrounding the region.
With 485ha of vines, Syrah is the third most planted grape variety in Santa Barbara County, after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Scroll down for Matthew Luczy’s top-scoring Santa Barbara County Syrahs
However one AVA has positioned itself as the Syrah capital of California.
Ballard Canyon, in the central Santa Ynez Valley, is is the only AVA in the whole of the US where Syrah is the most-planted grape. Half the vines planted here are Syrah, and a further 30% are other red and white Rhône varieties. It even has its own bottle, created exclusively for estate-grown Syrah and boasting the Ballard Canyon AVA name across the shoulder.
‘The Ballard Canyon bottle is my baby,’ says Pete Stolpman, president of The Ballard Canyon Winegrowers’ Alliance. ‘It is our symbol to the world that we are an AVA dedicated to this grape.’
Warmer temperatures here give ripe and muscular wines – emphasised by some producers more than others. Jonata’s La Sangre de Jonata is a monumental wine, while its neighbour Stolpman Vineyards crafts more subtle expressions.
The Santa Maria Valley AVA has one of the coolest wine growing climates in California, with Pacific Ocean fog an influence on valley floor vineyards. The Syrahs here retain good acidity and can show spicy Rhône-style pepper notes but also ripen well into full-bodied wines with floral, herbal, dark fruit.
Producers including Qupé, The Ojai Vineyard and Bien Nacido Vineyards harness these characters to great effect.
In the western Santa Ynez Valley, Syrahs from the Sta Rita Hills AVA are more fresh, saline and savoury. Dragonette and Holus Bolus both purchase fruit from the John Sebastiano vineyard here – one of the appellation’s best sites.
In the Happy Canyon AVA, the warmest area in Santa Barbara County, 21% of vineyard plantings are Syrah. The wines are less savoury than those found in Ballard Canyon to the west, offering punchy dark fruit and mocha-chocolate notes.
Located between Santa Maria and Buellton, the Los Alamos Valley AVA enjoys a microclimate ideal for growing high-quality varietal Syrahs as well as Syrah-Grenache blends.
Overall, Santa Barbara County Syrahs are softer than their Northern California counterparts. Older vines tend to give a more pronounced gamey character – none more so than from Bien Nacido Vineyards’ X Block.
As is the case with many of the region’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, Santa Barbara County Syrahs are among California’s best value.
A version of this article was first published in September 2019 and later updated in September 2020.
Matthew Luczy’s top Santa Barbara County Syrahs to try
The first nine wines below were tasted by Matthew Luczy in December 2020. The other wines were tasted on previous occasions.
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Bien Nacido Vineyards, The XO Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2018
Always among California's best Syrahs, XO is sourced from Bien Nacido Vineyards' famed X-Block. These vines were planted in 1973, this section being grafted to...
2018
Bien Nacido VineyardsSanta Barbara County
Jonata, La Sangre de Jonata, Santa Barbara County, Ballard Canyon, California, USA, 2016
A massive, burly nose of eucalyptus, huckleberry, coffee and earthy mesquite wood. The flavours follow the nose, within a powerful, muscular frame. A seemingly endless...
2016
JonataSanta Barbara County
Qupé, X Block Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2016
An intriguing, complex nose of nori seaweed, allspice, cardamom and cured meat. Dense, punchy and oily on the palate, lifted by energetic acidity and a...
2016
QupéSanta Barbara County
The Ojai Vineyard, Henry Daniel Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2017
Fruit from the John Sebastiano and Bien Nacido vineyards come together for this broad-shouldered, powerhouse, showing ripe, forward flavours of açai berry, plum compote and...
2017
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
Dusty Nabor, Kimsey Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Ballard Canyon, California, USA, 2018
A classic, savoury Syrah profile of beef jerky, green olive and cracked pepper, with lift from 2% Viognier in this vintage. The succulent palate is...
2018
Dusty NaborSanta Barbara County
Holus Bolus, Presqu'ile Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2018
Aromas of damp leaves, cured meat and cigar box spice. Thanks to 25% whole-cluster fermentation, the palate is buoyant and fresh, with intense pepper and...
2018
Holus BolusSanta Barbara County
Donnachadh, Estate Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2017
From vines planted to the Alban clone in 2013 on sand and silt. The nose shows black plum and sandalwood framed by subtle vegetal notes....
2017
DonnachadhSanta Barbara County
Dragonette, John Sebastiano Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
The John Sebastiano vineyard continues to prove itself one of California's top Syrah sites. Classic spice- and herb-driven aromas meld with ripe red fruits and...
2018
DragonetteSanta Barbara County
Stolpman Vineyards, Hilltops Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Ballard Canyon, California, USA, 2017
Aromas of milk chocolate, rosemary and spearmint. Considerably more depth and power than the estate bottling, as well as more apparent new oak. Well-integrated even...
2017
Stolpman VineyardsSanta Barbara County
The Ojai Vineyard, Solomon Hills Vineyard Special Bottling Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2017
Only 0.2ha of Syrah is planted at this vineyard and The Ojai Vineyard is the sole recipient of the fruit, meaning just two barrels were...
2017
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
The Ojai Vineyard, Duvarita Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2017
The Duvarita Vineyard, just west of the Sta Rita Hills border, is biodynamically farmed, and this 100% destemmed Syrah is a darker, deeper more spice-driven...
2017
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
Holus Bolus, Franc de Pied Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
The Franc de Pied block at John Sebastiano Vineyard is a specific planting of low-yielding, own-rooted Alban clone Syrah. The 2018 expression of this fruit...
2018
Holus BolusSanta Barbara County
Chanin, Shock Family Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2018
At first this was somewhat muted but it evolved non-stop over many hours covering an impressive amount of ground. Inward and brambly to begin, then...
2018
ChaninSanta Barbara County
Stolpman Vineyards, Estate Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Ballard Canyon, California, USA, 2017
In 2017, the Estate Syrah from Stolpman Vineyards is lively on the nose, deep and concentrated on the palate, and immediately accessible. 50% whole cluster...
2017
Stolpman VineyardsSanta Barbara County
The Ojai Vineyard, John Sebastiano Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2017
A the eastern edge of the Sta Rita Hills, the John Sebastiano Vineyard delivers the silky, perfumed side of Santa Barbara Syrah. This wine was...
2017
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
Bien Nacido Vineyards, The XO Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2016
The XO Syrah from Bien Nacido Estates shows off the famed X Block, the first cool-climate Syrah planted in California. Dating to 1987, there's a...
2016
Bien Nacido VineyardsSanta Barbara County
The Ojai Vineyard, Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley, California, USA, 2017
Fruit for this wine was sourced from the vineyards oldest Syrah plantings and fermented with a touch of stems. Savoury, dense, pretty and saline, it...
2017
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
The Joy Fantastic, Estate Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
Green olives, charred black fruit and dried tobacco on the nose, while the palate is classic, middle-weight Santa Barbara Syrah with a juicy, leathery, saline...
2018
The Joy FantasticSanta Barbara County
Holus Bolus, Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2018
A smouldering, swirling nose of red plums, red liquorice and cured meat leads to a blue-fruited, charred palate. The fleshy yet elegant finish carries notes...
2018
Holus BolusSanta Barbara County
The Ojai Vineyard, Duvarita Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2015
<p>Some of the best Syrah expressions in Santa Barbara County tend to come from sites also planted to Burgundian varietals, as evidenced by The Ojai...
2015
The Ojai VineyardSanta Barbara County
Beckmen Vineyards, Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County, Ballard Canyon, California, USA, 2016
Beckmen’s 125-acre Purisima Mountain Vineyard is a centrepiece of Ballard Canyon, and is now farmed completely biodynamically. The 2016 Syrah from this site displays a...
2016
Beckmen VineyardsSanta Barbara County
