Whisky requires patience. For Scotch, it takes three years and a day before the liquid in the cask can legally be called whisky; in practice, most distillers wait far longer before they’re happy for you to try it.
But just because whisky is a long-term business, that doesn’t make it immune to shifting trends, or incapable of responding to them. At a time when many prioritise paying the bills over what might appear to be a frivolous indulgence, it’s encouraging to see that you can still pick up a 21-year-old Irish whiskey for south of £100.
Then again, age is merely a number – and you don’t have to go deep into double figures to find quality. Young whiskies offer not only value for money, but an energising exuberance that, when well executed, is difficult to resist.
If it’s easy to be drawn in by age statements, the same can be said of distillery names. There’s comfort in familiarity, but don’t forget the thrill of the new – the discovery of a name that’s hardly ever seen. Independent bottlers are the go-to here, but not just for rare finds – they can also offer a fresh take on a malt that you thought you knew, confounding preconceptions.
Some trends are perennial. Call it extra maturation, call it ‘finishing’, but the fine art of transferring a whisky into a fresh cask to inject exciting new flavours is almost as old as whisky itself. But today the finishes – from tequila to Pineau des Charentes (an aperitif from western France) – are funkier and more fun than ever.
That combination of spirit and cask tells a story in its own right – not a dry tale of filling strengths, cut points and second-fill versus first-fill (unless that’s your thing) – but the sensory journey of flavour you embark upon every time you pour a glass.
Then again, maybe you’re drawn in by the whisky’s back-story – the concept of ‘whisky terroir’, its roots in sustainable farming or heritage grains – or the curiosity of discovering some of whisky’s newer origins, such as England, Denmark, Germany and beyond.
Or perhaps the impulse to buy is a seasonal one: the desire to track down a thoughtful gift for a favourite relative or friend – or simply a wish to treat yourself to a festive, Sherried dram to ward off the winter chill.
There are a million reasons to enjoy whisky – and almost as many whiskies out there to enjoy. Here are 10 favourites that will be on my wish list this Christmas…
Annandale Man O’Words 2018 Ex-Fino Sherry Butt Cask #396
Scotland
For those who find richly Sherried whiskies a tad overblown. Maturation in an ex-fino cask brings roasted hazelnut, almond and walnut to Annandale’s lovely orchard fruit distillate. Dilute judiciously. Alcohol 61.1%
Berry Bros & Rudd Inchgower 2009 Pineau des Charentes Finish
Scotland
Quirky Inchgower is an old favourite, but rarely seen. Here a Pineau des Charentes cask adds floral, vinous accents to the distillate’s saline, herbal character, all rounded out by a sweetly fruity mid-palate with plenty of citrus zest. Alc 55.5%
Fielden Hazybower Rye Whisky
England
Heritage grains (mainly rye, plus wheat and barley) and maturation in used American oak and ex-Tokaji wood makes for a pretty, floral rye – jasmine, honeysuckle, then honeyed cereal notes and just a little peppery grunt. Alc 46.3%
Glen Moray Tequila Cask Finish 2014
Scotland
Glen Moray’s supple, fruity distillate is the ideal canvas for cask finishes, and this addition to the experimental Warehouse 1 collection layers on herbal, savoury tones from spending a couple of years in ex-tequila oak. Alc 55.2%
Glenmorangie A Tale of Spices
Scotland
The latest flavour odyssey from Glenmorangie maestro Dr Bill Lumsden, inspired by the world’s spice markets – but plenty of the distillery’s more ethereal notes have survived alongside sweet-accented ginger, nutmeg and star anise. Alc 46%
Laphroaig 18 Year Old
Scotland
A well-mannered Laphroaig. After 18 years in ex-bourbon cask, it marries tobacco leaf, honey and salted caramel to the familiar feral smoke. The seasonal gift pack comes with a dry bag for festive hikes. Alc 48%
Living Souls Torabhaig 7 Year Old
Scotland
A new independent bottler meets a new-ish distillery. If you’re a fan of Torabhaig’s fierce peat, this is another gem, ex-bourbon cask-matured and offering whistle-clean flavours of beach barbecue, grilled pineapple and black pepper. Alc 51.5%
Meikle Tòir The Original
Scotland
Glenallachie’s peated alter ego, just five years old, matured in ex-Bourbon, ex-rye and virgin American oak. That means dialled-up charred pear, black pepper and a distinctively earthy, smoky profile. Alc 50%
Stauning Rye
Denmark
After a tough year in which Stauning lost its main investor, it’s great to see this modern classic fighting back with a slick new bottle design. Inside, it’s the same winning mix of plump cherry and damson, oak spice and deep, dark rye depths. Alc 48%
That Boutique-y Whisky Company 21 Year Old Irish Whiskey
Ireland
Adorned with a ‘lovely horse’ on the label (one for Father Ted fans), this is about as good-value as 21-year-old whisky gets. Classic cereal tones alongside honeyed almonds, a whisper of coconut and a pinch of baking spice. Alc 45.8%
