Toscana Rosso
Selecting grape bunches during the harvest at Biondi Santi
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy Richard Baudains looks at Toscana Rosso, the 'little brothers' of the famous names of Tuscany...

Tuscany has codified the concept of the ‘little brother’ wine by building the sub-denomination ‘Rosso’ into the production norms of three of its most important DOC/DOCGs.

Brunello has its Rosso di Montalcino; Vino Nobile its Rosso di Montepulciano; and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, the top denomination of the great estates of the Tuscan coastal region, has Bolgheri Rosso.

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Richard’s Toscana Rosso picks:

For producers, Toscana Rosso wines offer a safety valve that helps maintain the standards of the top estate wines; it also generates cash flow. For wine drinkers, it is a source of wines from great terroirs that do not need laying down, and which typically cost a quarter of the price of their ‘big brothers’.

Wood ageing is an option, but not an obligation, and many producers go down the road of juicy, vat-fermented wines that focus on varietal characters.

The styles

Rosso di Montalcino maintains the all-Sangiovese cépage of Brunello, which in cool vintages can make the Rosso a little hard and lean. In ripe vintages, though, it delivers thoroughbred Tuscany comparable to the level of top Chianti Classico, but with that extra Montalcino grip.

Rosso di Montepulciano is the lightest and freshest of the trio, displaying the classic violet and plum aromas of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, in some cases fleshed out by a dab of Merlot.

Bolgheri Rosso has the round, soft quality and silky tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon from the coast.

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Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 2013

My wines

90

Pale carmine shade, delicate nose of red cherry, iris floral notes and almonds, with a hint of powder puff. Tight and long on the palate, very pure, very restrained, even a touch austere, but very classic, very Biondi Santi.

2013

TuscanyItaly

Biondi-SantiRosso di Montalcino

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Poggio di Sotto, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 2013

My wines

89

Intense, spicy fruit with complexity on the nose: blackberry jam, vanilla, cinnamon, chestnut flour, nutmeg. Vibrant, juicy fruit on the palate, tannins a bit raw, with lots of oak to absorb. One to keep.

2013

TuscanyItaly

Poggio di SottoRosso di Montalcino

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Tenuta Argentiera, Villa Donoratico, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2013

My wines

89

Plum jam, vanilla pods, eucalyptus and a touch of black treacle. Concentrated, juicy wild berry, super-fine tannins and a herby finish.

2013

TuscanyItaly

Tenuta ArgentieraBolgheri

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Richard Baudains
Richard Baudains
Decanter Magazine, Regional Chair for Veneto DWWA 2019

Richard Baudains was brought up on the formerly French-speaking island of Jersey (hence the French surname). He moved to Italy to teach, and his first article with Decanter was published in 1988. He has been writing about Italian wine ever since, currently with a monthly column on Decanter Premium. Judge and long-time regional chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards, Baudains is also on the editorial team of the Slow Wine Guide for Friuli Venezia Giulia, and has taught MA courses on Wine Journalism at the Università delle Scienze Gastronomiche. Baudains judges in wine competitions and leads tastings and educational seminars in various Italian regions. Outside of wine, he works as a Cambridge University English language examiner. He lives in Gorizia.