Valpolicella Classico: Panel tasting results

Michael Garner, Andrea Briccarello and Jason Millar tasted 75 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 28 Highly recommended Valpolicella Classico: Panel tasting scores 75 wines tasted Exceptional 0 Outstanding 3 Highly recommended 28 Recommended 36 Commended 8 Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release Valpolicella Classico red wines, including Rosso and Superiore Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Valpolicella Classico panel tasting [subscriber-content] The effect of altitude [caption id="attachment_567933" align="alignnone" width="600"] The terrain and vineyards of Valpolicella. Credit: Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella[/caption] The Valpolicella Classico production area begins some 20km east of lake Garda, where the river Adige bends eastwards above Verona. The Classico zone centres on three main valleys, running from west to east: Fumane (relatively tight, spicy wines), Marano (more open and vibrantly fruity) and Negrar (fuller-bodied and slightly rounder). The further from the lake, the incrementally warmer the temperatures become. The ‘altitude effect’ is omnipresent: in broad brushstrokes this means the higher the vines are grown, the lighter the body and the lower the alcohol, while acidity levels tend to increase. Widespread appeal This enjoyable tasting focused on two of the area’s five separate denominations: regular Valpolicella Classico (aka ‘annata’, the standard wine of the vintage) and the more ambitious Classico Superiore, which has higher alcohol levels and is aged for longer before release (minimum 12 months in all). On the whole, the Classico Superiore wines fared better. Andrea Briccarello preferred the ‘much deeper and intense wines’, though Jason Millar favoured the more youthful style for ‘an irresistible springiness better enjoyed early than aged away’. Something I noted myself was a clear difference between Classico’s youthful vigour and cherry-infused primary fruit sensations and the restrained, elegant and nuanced – even ethereal – characters of more ageworthy Classico Superiore. Both styles nonetheless retain the freshness and balance that are the hallmarks of fine Veronese reds, and thereby offer ‘plenty of choices to the consumer’, according to Briccarello. It’s interesting to note that most of the top-scoring wines were made solely from freshly picked grapes, rather than with a proportion of semi-dried ( appassimento ) fruit. The latter is permitted by the DOC regulations but, in my view, it blurs the lines between Valpolicella and the appassimento-based wines of Valpolicella: Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto . All three judges found the overall standard across these wines to be consistently good, with Millar maintaining that ‘Classico is one of Italy’s great affordable reds’. [breakout]

What to eat with Valpolicella Classico, by Fiona Beckett [caption id="attachment_567909" align="aligncenter" width="600"] Spaghetti al limone. Credit: Brent Hofacker/Shutterstock[/caption] Valpolicella might not reach the heights of other Italian reds on its own merits, but as an accompaniment to food, it’s a charming and delicious companion.

It, of course, goes with antipasti and many pasta dishes – the surprise being how well it pairs with spaghetti al limone.

It’s also – and this isn’t to denigrate it – a great wine to drink with pizza and is particularly delicious with calves’ liver, including the classic fegato alla veneziana.

Taking it out of Italy, it’s one of those versatile reds that helps you out when everyone is ordering something different, as it also works with fish – even sushi for the lighter styles – and with a range of different vegetable dishes, including tricky-to-match grilled artichokes.

Given its cherry flavours, it’s a natural with duck, too. Try it with smoked duck – or smoked chicken come to that – or with soft cheeses, especially mozzarella and burrata.

Finally, and keep this in mind for Christmas, Valpolicella would be the perfect wine to crack open with a Boxing Day spread or a turkey sandwich!

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See all notes and scores from the Valpolicella Classico panel tasting [/subscriber-content] The judges Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines and the DWWA Regional Chair for Northern Italy. He is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2017) Andrea Briccarello is senior business development manager at Jascots Wine Merchants. Formerly head sommelier and wine buyer at Galvin restaurant group, and a brand manager for Bisol Prosecco, he is a DWWA judge for Northern Italy, Veneto and Piedmont Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on South Africa and Italy. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide Valpolicella Classico panel tasting results: Wines were tasted blind [wine-collection] Related articles Amarone: Panel tasting results Cool Barolo: The sites and techniques driving fresher styles in Piedmont ’ Italy newsletter: Sign up today