Scallops are some of the most delicate and versatile shellfish, beloved by chefs from different backgrounds and across cuisines. Their affinity with multiple cooking methods gives sommeliers a wide range of pairing possibilities – to be considered mindfully lest they spoil the fine balance of scallop-based dishes.
We reached out to leading sommeliers and asked for their tips on how to elevate your scallop and wine game.
Scallops – pairings to try:
- Raw scallops or ceviche: Riesling, Sake
- Seared scallops: Vouvray, white Rioja, Lugana, Savatiano
- Baked scallops: Champagne, skin-contact Grüner Veltliner or Xarel·lo
- Reds: Trousseau, St-Laurent, Zweigelt, Spätburgunder
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Matching wine with scallops is likely to lead you more towards white wines. This is due to the delicate nature of this prized ingredient and the many ways it can be approached in the kitchen – but it is also a matter of habit and tradition. There are also exciting pairing possibilities involving rosé, light red and orange wines.
With scallops, perhaps more than with any other seafood, the key thing is to understand how the cooking method changes the meat’s structure and how seasoning and accompanying sauces contribute to the overall character of the dish.
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Scallop ceviche and raw scallops
For Eugenio Egorov, head sommelier at five-star London hotel The Stafford, it’s important to underscore the aromatic delicacy of raw scallops, without obscuring it. If served raw, Egorov therefore favours a New World, bone-dry Riesling which, he says, ‘adds lifting acid alongside delicate aromas’ that don’t overpower the main ingredient. But if there’s a citrus, acidic element to the dish, in a ceviche or carpaccio for example, ‘an off-dry version, such as a Mosel Kabinett will be a good option,’ complementing the zesty acid with more luscious aromas. He mentions Henschke’s Peggy’s Hill Eden Valley Riesling and JJ Prüm’s Wehlener Sonnenhur, as his go-to options.
However, for Egorov, the ideal companion to raw scallops is Junmai Daiginjo Sake. ‘It’s just a perfect match; the sake’s umami really underscores the structure of the scallop,’ he explains. The premium sake category, with a minimum milling ratio of 50%, is known for its purity of flavour and delicate framework. A slight, subtle oiliness also helps underscore the scallops delicate, buttery fleshiness.
Seared scallops
Searing scallops, especially with butter (simply salted or flavoured with garlic and/or herbs), can create delicious caramelised flavours while keeping the fresh delicacy of the inside. Seared iterations lend themselves to more complex wine partners – with the caveat that these should never obscure the purity of the scallops’ meat.
This calls for a good balance between acidity and weight, imparted either by oak or lees ageing. ‘A Muscadet with some time on the lees, for body and structure, is a great option,’ says Egorov. ‘And if the [seared] scallops are served with a sauce – so there’s the sauce’s flavour adding to the smokiness – I’d recommend a fresh non-oxidative white Rioja. Among my favourites is the Remírez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva.’ He also suggests looking across the Mediterranean for a Greek Savatiano, which offers an ideal combination of flavour, weight and body.
For Melania Bellesini, head sommelier at The Fat Duck, the pairing exercise is more complex. ‘We serve seared scallop alongside a tartare. So the wine needs to complement both the smokiness and the creaminess of the dish.’ She hones in on the different possible garnishes (hazelnut, seaweed, white chocolate) to decide on the best pairing companion. If saltiness and/or nuttiness dominate she goes for an ‘off-dry Riesling with a bit of age to round off the acidity’ (Donnhoff Kabinett is a go-to option). If, on the other hand, the dish gives toasted flavours centre stage then Bellesini will opt for an off-dry Vouvray: ‘Chenin Blanc’s low, soft acid and good body work really well with the smokiness of the dish.’
But there’s room for more creativity, when daring garnishes call for it. ‘We once had a scallop dish served with white chocolate mousse and almond milk. It was perfect with Cà dei Frati’s Pratto, a blend of Trebbiano [di Lugana], Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc – it had great vibrancy along with a rich, buttery character. Worked really well.’
Credit: Edward Howell | Unsplash
Baked or roasted scallops
Egorov highlights that white Riojas, especially older vintages, are also great companions to the creamy opulence of baked scallops. ‘But you can’t go wrong with some bubbles with a bit of oak influence. I currently have the [Champagne] Nicolas Maillart’s Jolivettes Grand Cru – 100% Pinot Noir vinified in foudres – and it works superbly.’
Thinking a bit outside the box it might be worth considering an orange wine with a good balance of tannin and acid, such a skin-contact Austrian Grüner Veltliner or Xarel·lo from Catalonia.
Red wines with scallops
Speaking of tannins, it’s wrong to assume that red wines cannot be paired with fish and seafood, especially if served slightly chilled.
Trousseau and St-Laurent are grapes to look out for if serving roasted scallops. ‘Or even a chilled Zweigelt,’ says Egorov. ‘Another great option is a Baden Blauburgunder [Spätburgunder], which has ideal juiciness, acidity and soft tannins.’
Are your scallops sustainable?
The Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide, which assesses the sustainability rating of fish and seafood sources, warns against buying wild-caught scallops captured via ‘dredging’ the seabed. Also known as ‘bottom dragging’, this is a particularly destructive method for sea habitats.
Hand-dived scallops are a better option. However, these are increasingly hard to find and significantly more expensive due to the cost and risks of this capture method. Still, there can be significant impact on population stock and, consequently, on the overall sea eco-system.
The most sustainable source has become off-bed (suspended) farming. These are scallop aquacultures, with little environmental impact, that do not need commercial feed and very rarely require the use of chemical treatments. While currently no independently certified sustainable scallops are available, your fishmonger should be able to tell you the origin and capture method of his produce.
Wine with scallops: 10 to try
Wines grouped by style and ordered by descending score.
