Bordeaux 2022: Wines from a superb vintage revisited in bottle

Compiling the in-bottle report is a fascinating experience. Readers may find it overkill that we taste roughly 900 wines, prepared for early assessment in the April after harvest, and then taste the same wines again only 20 months later.

It’s mostly dictated by Bordeaux’s en primeur system, which allows for the purchase of and investment in wines whose barrel-maturation is as yet incomplete, but it’s a remarkable exercise in tracking a wine’s early progress.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of a selection of top red wines from Bordeaux 2022

This is only my second consecutive ‘primeurs to in-bottle’ report, but unlike 2021, where many wines changed dramatically over the course of that period, the 2022s have largely remained consistent.

Indeed many of my tasting notes feature exactly the same descriptors.

There’s a general understanding that when wines taste well at the en primeur stage they will likely stay more open and pleasurable in the future.

Of course wine changes – some close down (their aromas and flavours becoming subdued) and then re-open, and the character of wines will inevitably change as they mature.

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022

But the 2022s have emerged as wines out to please. As a group they are highly charged and powerful with an impressive amount of fruit, tannins and alcohol, yet they are refined and balanced with a sense of classicism.

Focus on freshness

The phrase ‘record breaking with unprecedented hot and dry conditions’ wouldn’t usually foretell success for a Bordeaux vintage; however, the 2022s seem to defy logic.

Some put it down to improved viticultural endeavours over the past two decades – the wines are far superior to those from the very hot 2003 vintage – while others assert that the vines were stressed from the start, so they adapted themselves better for the long haul.

Harvest dates, grape sorting and vinifications also played a part: cooler fermentations, lighter extractions and sporadic uses of whole-bunch fermentation to lower potential alcohols, as well as the use of concrete containers and amphorae to retain freshness during the maturation process.

2022 at a glance

Overall red wine vintage rating: 4.5/5

• A vintage of extremes, defined by intense heat and drought, yet remarkable resilience in the vineyards.

• Small berries yielded concentrated, structured wines with deep fruit intensity, firm tannins and elevated alcohol.

• Precision in vineyard management and winemaking was crucial, with early picking and gentle extraction preserving freshness.

• The best wines display energy, refinement and surprising balance despite the warmth. While some wines lean heavily into power, the finest examples achieve a rare combination of richness and vibrancy.

• Bordeaux 2022 is a vintage of immense character, which has produced wines that are both seductive in youth and capable of long-term ageing.

Hits and misses

The best 2022 reds have a combination of ripe and concentrated fruit flavours – verging on opulent, exotic and heady, which you’d expect from a warm vintage, but not jammy or confected – with extreme aromatic intensity, sleek frames and refreshing acidities.

They are poised, characterful and more importantly pleasurable. Some have more plush and chewy tannins, while others are more streamlined.

Fruit purity is a common thread – unsurprisingly given the excellent harvest conditions with no threat of rot.

The worst wines are overly charged, overripe or overextracted with short finishes and drying tannins.

In some the (new) oak isn’t fully integrated, meaning they’re still too spiced and toasted, and in others alcohol is an issue – some will require a good few years to soften and resolve.

In general, alcohol levels this year are higher than normal but not excessively so, although certainly above 2021 with some pushing 15% and 15.5%.

New-school styling

The vintage largely favours reds over whites (which I have rated at 3.5 out of 5), although there is a strong cohort of dry whites (not covered in this article) with Semillon coping well in the conditions.

They are generally less vibrant and exhilarating than in 2021, but they have a nice richness of body accompanied by zingy acidity in the best examples.

The sweet wines are similarly intense and opulent with less overt acidity and high residual sugar levels, although there are some standout bottlings.

What I love most about the 2022s is their approachability. Unlike in previous years, I have received the majority of samples at home, and more than once I have found myself pouring a glass from one of the bottles to enjoy that evening.

The notion that we have to leave red Bordeaux for at least five years before opening doesn’t apply to most 2022s.

While these wines will certainly age, some for a very long time, don’t be afraid to buy and open them as you would a Rioja or Chianti Classico.

I also found that serving the wines slightly cooler than usual worked in their favour, highlighting the freshness and minimising heat from the alcohol.

Wines on the rise

Now in bottle, the following wines have seen their score raised by Georgie Hindle, Decanter‘s Bordeaux Regional Editor, since she first tasted them en primeur:

Château Angélus, St-Émilion, Grand Cru (EP score 97) 100

Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A (EP score 98) 100

Château La Conseillante, Pomerol (EP score 98) 100

Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé (EP score 98) 100

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (EP score 98) 100

Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves (EP score 97) 100

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé (EP score 98) 99

Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol (EP score 97) 98

Château Pavie, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A (EP score 96) 97

Château Séraphine, Pomerol (EP score 94) 96

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves (EP score 95) 96

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé (EP score 94) 95

Château Saint-Georges Côte Pavie, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé (EP score 92) 95

Les Perrières de Lafleur, Bordeaux Supérieur (EP score 93) 95

Château Montrose, Dame de Montrose, St-Estèphe (EP score 92) 94

Château de Camensac, Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé (EP score 92) 93

Château de Fonbel, St-Émilion, Grand Cru (EP score 90) 93

Château La Chenade, Lalande-de-Pomerol (EP score 92) 93

Château Trigant, Pessac-Léognan (EP score 90) 92

Across the board quality

Overall, the 2022 vintage rewarded meticulous vineyard management and precision winemaking, allowing estates to craft delicious wines despite the extreme conditions.

However, it also ‘levelled the playing field’, as it were, for consistency. While the finest terroirs naturally excelled, many lesser-regarded sites also produced standout bottles, benefiting from the warmth that ensured better grape ripeness than in previous years.

No single appellation dominates, although I still love Margaux as I did during primeurs.

Also, cooler sites in the north of the Médoc, Listrac-Moulis and Entre-deux-Mers, as well as areas on limestone in Fronsac and Castillon, all did very well.

However, outstanding wines can be found across Bordeaux, including many red second wines, which are generally very good.

When it comes to buying, the 2022s arrived on the market bullishly and prices can’t be lower now than they were for en primeur – but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some great value wines to be found.

It’s near impossible to whittle down more than 800 tasting notes into a selection of 36, but the selection on the following pages represents a combination of great quality and top value.

Some wines might not enter their ‘peak’ drinking windows for another 5-10 years – and will last beyond that – but I have chosen wines I think are ready to be enjoyed now or very soon, depending on your taste preferences.

Bordeaux 2022: Highlights of the vintage from Decanter‘s Bordeaux Regional Editor

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