PREMIUM

Hugh Johnson – ‘Once in a while I stand among the vines and think “this is special”’

I’ve been visiting vineyards for decades now; long enough to have had moments of ennui. Another row of vines: are they in good shape, how are they trellised/ pruned, do they use cover crops, herbicides? It’s all interesting – up to the umpteenth time. then, once in a while, I stand among the vines and think, ‘this is special’.