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Panel Tasting: Brunello di Montalcino 2012

See which of the 123 wines came out on top after this blind tasting by our three-strong expert panel, with an introduction to the Brunello 2012 vintage by Richard Baudains and a report on the post-tasting discussion by John Stimpfig.

In the second half of the 19th century, Ferruccio Biondi Santi selected a biotype of Sangiovese and used it to make an innovative barrel-aged, monovarietal wine. To all intents and purposes he invented Brunello.

Others took it forward (notably the producers’ consorzio in the 1960s), but without the Biondi Santi family there would probably be no Brunello di Montalcino.

Scroll down to see the top wines from the panel tasting

Brunello di Montalcino is Sangiovese in its most intense, full-bodied manifestation, but in terms of specific textures and aromas there is variation on the basic theme.

Individual winemaking styles play a part. Estates that age in barrique or tonneaux (a minority, to be honest) make more immediate wines with a big initial fruit impact and smoother tannins. Long maceration and ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels create drier, initially more reticent wines.

More significant is the influence of soils and climate: to generalise, the further south you go, the fuller, softer and rounder the wines become. On the ridge to the east of Montalcino and in the area to the north, the wines have a more linear, savoury character and generally evolve more slowly.

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