The region of Gascony in Southwest France, for many, epitomises the irresistible charm of rural France. Dotted with medieval bastide villages, its gently rolling countryside holds the promise of a slower pace of life, punctuated by long lunches of foie gras and magret de canard, washed down with a glass or two of the country’s oldest spirit: Armagnac.
First referenced (for its health-giving benefits) as far back as 1310, Armagnac is sometimes rather lazily characterised as Cognac’s rustic cousin – a rough and ready counterpoint to Cognac’s poise and sophistication. The truth, however, is rather different: a combination of factors, from terroir to grape varieties, distillation methods and maturation, make Armagnac a remarkably diverse and fascinating drink that it can take a lifetime to explore.
If Cognac is analogous to Bordeaux, explains Dawn Davies MW, buying director at leading online retailer The Whisky Exchange, then Armagnac is Burgundy. Think a highly fragmented region filled with small, artisanal producers, where local knowledge is key.
For the Armagnac newcomer, exploring the category becomes a voyage of discovery. Tasting and comparing the nuances of grape variety, vineyard, age and distillation style until you find the Armagnac that’s right for you.
Armagnac: the vineyards

Armagnac vineyard in Gers, Gascony Credit: Alison Eckett / Alamy Stock Photo
Armagnac’s vineyards are scattered across Gascony. The départements of Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne play host to about 15,000ha of vines. The vineyards fall under either the IGP Côtes de Gascogne or the PDO Floc de Gascogne. Out of that total, roughly 4,200ha are exclusively allocated for Armagnac production, split into three zones:
- Bas-Armagnac Located to the west, this area was once under the Atlantic. The receding waters left behind tawny sands (sables fauves) and boulbènes – a kind of sand/silt mix – with a high iron content. When combined with the highly distinctive Baco grape variety (see below), this unique terroir creates some of the region’s finest and most ageworthy eaux-de-vie.
- Ténarèze To the east, this sub-region offers a diverse soil mix of boulbènes and chalk-clay, producing round, often opulent Armagnacs. The finest merit long maturation.
- Haut-Armagnac A large, L-shaped zone that embraces Bas-Armagnac and Ténarèze to the east and south, but with relatively few vineyards.
Armagnac: grape varieties

Baco grapes Credit: Hilke Maunder / Alamy Stock Photo
In contrast to Cognac, where Ugni Blanc (aka Trebbiano) is all but ubiquitous, Armagnac offers a diverse palette of grape varieties. The most significant are:
- Baco A crossing of Folle Blanche and the hybrid Noah, Baco was created in 1898 by François Baco, a Landais schoolmaster, to help the region’s vineyards recover from phylloxera. At one point, it was nearly banned; it’s the only hybrid variety permitted in a French AC, and makes some pretty unpalatable wine. But today its power and complexity, which often only emerge after decades of maturation, are highly prized.
- Ugni Blanc As in Cognac, Ugni Blanc is valued for its high acidity and low alcohol, making it ideal for distillation and creating Armagnacs of great precision and finesse.
- Folle Blanche Delicate and prone to mildew and rot, Folle Blanche is hard work, but worth it for its perfume, delicacy and finesse.
Armagnac: production

An Alambic Armagnacais still at Domaine Tariquet Credit: JeanMichel Ducasse-CollectionBNIArmagnac
While some Armagnac is distilled twice, as in Cognac, the vast majority of the region’s eaux-de-vie are distilled once in a type of still that’s specific to the region: Alambic Armagnacais. This is a continuous still that can be tailored to the demands of the producer. It can give spirit that’s higher or lower in alcohol, purer or more robust and characterful, with the spirit coming off the still at around 55-60% abv.
Armagnac: maturation
Early in their lives, Armagnacs are often matured in active, wide-grained Gascon oak. They take on plenty of flavour from the wood – especially spice and oak tannin. Those destined for longer ageing are then moved into older, more neutral barrels to mellow, often for decades. The finest and oldest Armagancs are sometimes moved into large glass dames-jeannes (demijohns) or bonbonnes to prevent the spirit from being overwhelmed by wood.
As Davies puts it when describing Armagnac: ‘There’s a formula, but the formula isn’t set.’ The diversity of the region and the drink gives producers ample opportunity to play around, creating a vast array of Armagnacs of varying ages and characters. Some have age statements; some use the Cognac classifications of VS, VSOP, XO and so on. There are also a large number of vintage bottlings (still a relatively rare sight in Cognac).

Marc Darroze of Armagnac Darroze in Bas Armagnac. Credit: Maison Darroze
‘I would definitely start looking at the differences between, say, a 10-year-old and a 20-year-old Armagnac,’ suggests Davies. ‘Give yourself an understanding of how that spirit changes when it ages, and how much complexity and depth you get. If you’re not sure, go to a producer that’s better-known, like Darroze or Baron de Sigognac, compare younger and older Armagnacs, and find the age that suits you.’
The good news is that, for all its diversity, there is one common thread running throughout Armagnac: value for money. ‘If you’re looking at what a vintage Armagnac costs – even from the 1800s or early 1900s – they’re still remarkably great value compared to a 50-year-old whisky or a 50-year-old Cognac,’ says Davies. ‘I think Armagnac is seriously undervalued.’
Eight Armagnacs to try
Baron de Sigognac 10 Year Old
From a still dating back to 1921 comes this classic expression of Bas-Armagnac – albeit with Ugni Blanc, rather than Baco, to the fore. Chiaroscuro notes of flowers, dark fruit and dry spice, especially chilli and black pepper. Characterful, distinctive and perfectly balanced. Alcohol 40%
Castarède XO 20 Year Old
This supremely soft and complex Bas-Armagnac offers an irresistible interplay between distillate and cask. Fig and ripe cassis flavours gradually recede to allow oak-driven notes – cigar leaf, antique furniture and butterscotch – to take centre stage. Simply superb. Alc 40%
Château de Bordeneuve Hors d’Age
A masterclass in the art of blending, this showcases the charm of Ugni Blanc overlaid with the grip and character of Baco. Mouthfilling forest fruit, baking spices and jalapeño chilli notes sit alongside savoury, drying oak. Distinctive, drinkable and highly recommended. Alc 41%
Château de Laubade VSOP
Located in the heart of Bas-Armagnac, Laubade has been in the Lesgourgues family for three generations. The 105ha estate makes a consistently excellent range of Armagnacs, and this is the perfect introduction at a friendly price. Pâtisserie scents, plum, citrus and vanilla notes come courtesy of a winning blend of Baco, Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard grapes. Alc 40%
Darroze Domaine de Péré 1992
From arguably the finest and most consistent négociant in the region comes this no-holds-barred, high-strength, vintage Bas-Armagnac. Bottled in 2022 it is silkily voluptuous, combining flavours of dried apricot, prune and date with an enervating prickle of tangerine zest. Endless depths of complexity. Alc 50%
Delord 1979 Bas-Armagnac
Delord, located in the village of Lannepax in the Gers, was the first Armagnac producer I visited. For me, it’s always embodied the classic Bas-Armagnac style, with Baco to the fore. Younger expressions can be challenging, but this beauty is at the perfect pitch of maturity. Expect stone fruit (peach, apricot), soft scents of vanilla and a kick of chilli spice at the end. Alc 40%
Domaine d’Espérance Petit Lot 17 Year Old
Bottled in 2022 by Version Française, this is a blend of three vintages (2003, 2004 and 2005) and three grape varieties (Ugni Blanc, Baco and Folle Blanche). Fruit-forward and oily on the palate; apricot and passion fruit notes are counterbalanced by dry spices (clove, cinnamon) and a beguiling roasted hazelnut character. Alc 46%
Janneau XO 20 Year Old Grand Armagnac
An outlier in production terms, this was double-distilled using the Charentais pot still more commonly found in Cognac. However that makes it the ideal bridge between the two regions. Poached plum, dark honey and fig, enhanced by soft flavours of vanilla and fudge. Alc 40%