With choices of luxury and traditional lodgings as well as restaurants serving llama dishes and spicy empanadas, Sorrel Moseley-Williams picks the best places to eat and stay...
Accommodation
Casa Colorada
A charming, 10-room mountain lodge built from local stone and nestled 3,200m above sea level near Tilcara. The remote location ensures a total disconnect. Trekking, birdwatching and horse riding are available; though kicking back with a glass of Quebrada Malbec is equally pleasurable.
El Manantial del Silencio
A warm, colonial-style, 18-room lodge, located close to Purmamarca’s authentic Plaza 9 de Julio. Enjoy stunning vistas of the Siete Colores from the indoor jacuzzi. Book into the restaurant to sample chef Sergio Latorre’s detailed Andean cuisine.
Hotel Huacalera
This 1940s-built, state-run hotel close to the Tropic of Capricorn underwent a substantial facelift when it was reopened in 2009. Contemporary Andean design and comfortable king-size beds are the norm, as are llamas keeping the gardens spruce.
Viñas de Uquía
Cross Río Grande’s riverbed to pitch up at this four-room B&B set among the world’s highest vineyards. Most breakfast supplies come from the organic garden. Ask about sleeping on animal skins at the rustic three-walled lodge located en route to Mina Moya wine cellar.
Restaurants
El Nuevo Progreso
El Nuevo Progreso
An artsy ambience is combined with traditional northwestern dishes given a contemporary twist at this restaurant in Tilcara. The service is efficient. Try the llama fillet served with warmed quinoa and broad bean salad.
La Picadita
Hearty dishes such as humita a la olla (mashed corn) served in generous portions and a strong wine list rule at this cool multi-room spot in Tilcara, which is led by a dynamic husband-and- wife team.
Los Morteros
This eatery in Purmamarca serves up hearty llama stew, lamb with lentils and quinoa, and goats’ cheese empanadas. It also offers one of the Quebrada’s more extensive wine lists. Book a cosy table around the vast salamander fireplace in winter. +54 388 490 8063
Pachamanka
After spending a morning wandering Humahuaca, the Quebrada’s largest town, refuel at this colourful café that serves tamales, empanadas and locro (pork and bean stew).
