Whether you eat at a white tablecloth restaurant or a humble trattoria or osteria, you will find numerous dazzling wine and food combinations in Barbaresco, typically at very reasonable prices.
Offering among the finest dining experiences in all of Italy, the quality of the local ingredients is the equivalent of the zone’s most revered wines.
In my previous article for Decanter, I unearthed some great places to eat in Barolo. Now, moving a few miles northeast to another site of pilgrimage for Nebbiolo lovers, we take a look at some top places to eat in Barbaresco.
Where to eat in Barbaresco
La Ciau del Tornavento
Credit: La Ciau del Tornavento
Known by locals simply as La Ciau (pronounced ‘chow’), this one-star Michelin restaurant is the most famous in the Barbaresco zone.
Located in a 1930s building that was once a nursery school, La Ciau has class written all over it. The spacious dining room with its large picture windows offers marvellous views of the local countryside, and the dishes prepared by owner/chef Maurilio Garola are just as stunning.
Highlights include plin (a local pillow-shaped pasta) flavoured with Marsala and foie gras, smoked veal breaded in grissini and hazelnut cream, and black cuttlefish cappuccino.
The wine cellar, with more than 60,000 bottles representing 450 estates, is the largest in the Langhe, and one of the most complete in Italy. Fun fact: there is also a menu for dogs.
La Ciau del Tornavento
Piazza Baracco, 7
12050 Treiso
Tel: (+39) 0173 638 333
Osteria dell’Unione
Just down the hill from La Ciau, Osteria dell’Unione has been offering classic local dishes since 1982.
It was here in 1989 that Carlo Petrini and a few friends organised the beginnings of the Slow Food movement in Italy, and this osteria has maintained that philosophy ever since.
Gnocchi with Gorgonzola, agnolotti del plin and vitello tonnato are beautifully prepared staples, while rabbit with pepperoni cooked in Barbaresco is the house specialty.
A medium-sized wine list focusing on local producers is attractively priced. Osteria dell’Unione rarely dazzles, but if it’s a classic Langhe meal at a reasonable price you seek, you’re in the right place.
Osteria dell’Unione
Via Alba, 1
12050 Treiso
Tel: (+39) 0173 638 303
Campamac
On the street leading into the main square of the town of Barbaresco, Maurilio Garola from La Ciau has opened an upscale, handsome osteria that takes the high road with service, food and setting; think of this as a classy supper club.
The focus here is on grilled meat, with numerous steaks – you can see these in one of the kitchens when you enter – along with lamb, chicken and Chateaubriand.
The wine list is extensive, with an impressive number of Barolo and Barbaresco choices; lovers of Gaja will be amazed at the verticals available. A highlight in autumn is the remarkable tartufo bianco menu that even extends to gelato.
Campamac
Strada Giro della Valle, 1
12050 Barbaresco
Tel: (+39) 0173 633 5051
Antinè
Chef/owner Manuel Bouchard. Credit: Tom Hyland / Decanter
Just a five-minute walk along the same street as Campamac, Antinè is arguably the most creative dining experience in Barbaresco.
Chef-owner Manuel Bouchard, who opened this small, upstairs space in 2014, is a master of subtlety in his cooking and presentation.
Asparagus and egg, and Arctic char with dill are sublime starters, while rabbit and peppers, and cod and artichokes are terrific secondi.
The well-organised wine list offers dozens of local reds, as well as many difficult-to-find artisan Champagnes.
Antinè
Via Torino, 16
12050 Barbaresco
Tel: (+39) 0173 635 294
L’Aromatario
Credit: L’Aromatario
Combine a traditional menu and a superlative wine list with comfortable surroundings and wonderful service, and you’ll realise why L’Aromatario in Neive is one of the most satisfying dining encounters you’ll ever realise in Italy.
All the local standards, such as carne cruda, tajarin and brasato al Barbaresco are offered, with other notable options include rabbit cooked in Arneis, while codfish with paprika and a wild-herb aioli, as well as guinea fowl with polenta and carrots are not to be missed.
Yes, there are many choices for Barbaresco and Barolo on offer, but Dolcetto and Barbera are also well represented, as are many limited production Champagnes and Burgundies. L’Aromatario always draws a crowd, and local and out-of-town winemakers swear by it.
L’Aromatario
Piazza Negro, 4
Neive
Tel: (+39) 0173 677 206
