St Joseph 2010: panel tasting results
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Decanter experts gives their verdict, tasting notes and drinking windows on St Joseph 2010.
With many small domaines and two zones, St-Joseph is poorly understood. But these northern Rhônes are worth seeking out, says John Livingstone-Learmonth
St Joseph 2010: Panel Tasting
Two words crack the code that is St-Joseph, and they are ‘Syrah’ and ‘granite’. St-Joseph is a poorly understood appellation that has no village to show off its wares, unlike Cornas or Crozes-Hermitage. It wanders down the right bank of the Rhône over nearly 65km, is home to a plethor of small domaines, and is not much exported.
While these features may hamper the marketing of the wine, they also contribute to a countryside authenticity. Holdings at St-Joseph are mostly under 10 hectares, and domaines and their small cellars are dotted around the hills and valleys of the land wedged between the granite slab of the Massif Central and the powerful running Rhône River.
St-Joseph’s roots lie in the rugged existence of hill farmers who for centuries grew cereals, livestock feeds and some dairy up on the meadows and gulleys of the plateau, or fruit trees and vines on the slopes. Wine has always been made here to drink, without ceremony.
Legislation created two St-Josephs, though. The heart is the southern sector opposite Hermitage, formed in 1956. Here there are six communes led by the villages of Mauves, St-Jean-de-Muzols and Tournon. Mauves is the seat of the most dynastic families: Jean-Louis Chave, Coursodon, Gonon, Gripa and Marsanne. Their benchmark wines are marked by red fruits, fine-grained tannins and slight floral notes. At St-Jean-de-Muzols and Tournon, the wines have interesting tension and fine fibre, a true granite ‘clack’; senior figures here include Guigal and Delas, with their Vignes de l’Hospice and Côte St-Epine plot-specific wines.
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François Villard, Mairlant, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Rhône, France, 2010

94
<p>Lush, spicy, blueberry nose which has charm and vigour. Rich and fleshy, this is a broad, sumptuous style of St-Joseph that conveys the finesse of the granite. Plenty of finesse and length.</p>
2010
RhôneFrance
François VillardSt-Joseph
Louis Chèze, Ro-Rée, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Rhône, France, 2010

94
Nose comprises smoked, red berry fruit with notes of the forest, graphite, sloe and macerated prunes. Vigorous and spicy, with a touch of pepper, it’s a hedonistic and somewhat indulgent example, but pleasing to every sense.
2010
RhôneFrance
Louis ChèzeSt-Joseph
Eric Rocher, Terroir de Champal, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

92
<p>Beautiful aromatics here; cloves, violet, blueberry, incense, laurel, Lapsang Souchong and plum. The texture is silky and the fruit quality bright and persistent with flavours of Indian spice, ripe black fruits and pot pourri. Long and luxuriant on the finish, this is most impressive.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Eric RocherSt-Joseph
Yves Cuilleron, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

92
<p>Fine, subtle yet complex nose with lavender, blueberry, hints of violet and bay, and no shortage of ripe fruit, and just the right amount of meatiness. The counterpoint between sweet fruit and peppery back palate is impressive. Needs a little time to fuse.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Yves CuilleronSt-Joseph
Romain Duvernay, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

91
Forest floor and hints of clove and dark chocolate dominate the nose here, with touches of raspberry and mulberry. The creamy palate is southern in style, bearing garrigue herbs in its red stone fruit flavour. Ends with a kick and good fruit verve. Will sing more with time.
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Romain DuvernaySt-Joseph
Delas, Sainte Épine, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Smoky bacon and blackberry aromas lead off, with life and an extra red-meat style depth. The palate is finely balanced, beautifully harmonious and has no shortage of pedigree. The tannins are fine, the acidity poised. Genuine St-Joseph – on the button.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Bernard Gripa, Le Berceau, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Cerebral nose with floral and spicy notes to the black fruit, and a whiff of white pepper. Concentrated palate with a kernel of sweet fruit and lush, chewy tannins. Not fully integrated yet but has welcome swagger and persistence</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Domaine Bernard GripaSt-Joseph
Domaine des Remizières, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
Nose has a deep, black, stone fruit air, with traces of oak, spearmint and laurel. Palate is full, shapely, spicy and complex, with vibrant acidity to balance the weighty, lush fruit. Not quite in harmony yet, but just needs some time.
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Domaine des RemizièresSt-Joseph
Domaine Faury, La Gloriette, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>A powerful nose suggesting a concentrated and richly fruity wine which is spot on, as the palate is concentrated, with ripe loganberry and cherry fruit, plus enveloping, ripe tannins balanced by lively acidity. A down-to-business, complete, satisfying wine.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Domaine FaurySt-Joseph
Domaine Michelas St Jemms, Sainte Épine, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Attractive, spicy nose of cassis, loganberry, violets, blueberries and laurel. Has a sealed, baked layer of black fruit, plus a roasted, meaty aspect. Not much flesh or weight but has charm and authenticity, and the balance is impeccable; it should age well.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Domaine Michelas St JemmsSt-Joseph
Free Run Wines, Les Calades, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010
90
<p>The nose mingles baked raspberry tart, brioche, Indian spices and black cherry with a lurking strength underneath. Fresh attack, sleek and concentrated, it’s not yet fully unwound. A traditional style made by a good grower in a very good vintage.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Free Run WinesSt-Joseph
Louis Chèze, Caroline Cuvée Prestige, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
Spicy, seductive nose of juicy blackberry and an undertone of violet. Delicious and stylish with purity and finesse, the focus is on restraint, with a floral current through it and lots of energy. Needs a year to fine tune its elements, but has plenty of personality.
2010
RhôneFrance
Louis ChèzeSt-Joseph
Stéphane Ogier, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010
90
<p>Opulent plum and blackberry nose, with a meat stock note, violets and bacon reminding one of a Côte-Rôtie. The palate is wreathed in expensive oak, but has considerable weight, concentration, length and power and a pleasingly peppery finish. Requires robust foods to partner with such as game.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Stéphane OgierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Les Pierres, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Toasty, smoky nose, plummy and quite meaty. The palate is solid with good tannic grip and earthiness. Broad and sustained across the back palate, delivering an ample mouthful of plump fruit with touches of sage, laurel and beef stock on the finish.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Domaine Mucyn, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Youthful aromas, divided between the red and black end of the fruit spectrum. The berry fruit is tasty, spread liberally around the palate, the juiciness the hallmark of the 2010 vintage. It’s shapely and graceful rather than powerful, with a finely wrought tannic structure.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Domaine MucynSt-Joseph
Emmanuel Darnaud, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Black cherry nose, along with liquorice, damson, bay leaf, black fruits and a salty air. Rich, full-bodied, very concentrated, dense and forceful, with strong acidity to match the strength of tannins but without too much extraction. Very youthful but has fine potential.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Emmanuel DarnaudSt-Joseph
La Tour Coste, La Combe, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Rhône, France, 2010
90
Ripe blackberry nose with red berry, nut, raisin and smoky touches. A modern-style Rhône with chocolatey tones, but it’s not heavy and has ample drive, with a tannic structure, but not in such a way to stifle potential from the natural granitic acidity and the ripe fruit.
2010
RhôneFrance
La Tour CosteSt-Joseph
Maxime Graillot, Equis, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010
90
Crushed blackberry nose – vibrant, with stylish oak and hints of laurel, olive and charcuterie. Sleek and polished, the palate moves steadily, with a gentle wash of black fruit, and an iodine tang in its late moments. This has good potential with elegant acidity completing the picture.
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Maxime GraillotSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Clear snap of red berry and hedgerow fruit aromas. Has charm, succulence and an almost ethereal Pinot-like character, entwined with more southern, warmer notes of cherry and orange grove with spice and pepper on the finish.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Vidal-Fleury, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

90
<p>Pine needle, bacon, redcurrant, pepper and clove on the nose. Ripe, almost sweet, silky in texture, yet still showing attractive acidity, with lovely stony minerality underpinning the black fruit core. Vibrant and charming – a countrystyle wine with an agreeable sense of terroir.</p>
2010
Saint-JosephFrance
Vidal-FleurySt-Joseph

Content written and compiled by the Decanter Team