St Joseph 2010
St Joseph 2010
(Image credit: St Joseph 2010)

Decanter experts gives their verdict, tasting notes and drinking windows on St Joseph 2010.

With many small domaines and two zones, St-Joseph is poorly understood. But these northern Rhônes are worth seeking out, says John Livingstone-Learmonth


St Joseph 2010: Panel Tasting


Two words crack the code that is St-Joseph, and they are ‘Syrah’ and ‘granite’. St-Joseph is a poorly understood appellation that has no village to show off its wares, unlike Cornas or Crozes-Hermitage. It wanders down the right bank of the Rhône over nearly 65km, is home to a plethor of small domaines, and is not much exported.

While these features may hamper the marketing of the wine, they also contribute to a countryside authenticity. Holdings at St-Joseph are mostly under 10 hectares, and domaines and their small cellars are dotted around the hills and valleys of the land wedged between the granite slab of the Massif Central and the powerful running Rhône River.

St-Joseph’s roots lie in the rugged existence of hill farmers who for centuries grew cereals, livestock feeds and some dairy up on the meadows and gulleys of the plateau, or fruit trees and vines on the slopes. Wine has always been made here to drink, without ceremony.

Legislation created two St-Josephs, though. The heart is the southern sector opposite Hermitage, formed in 1956. Here there are six communes led by the villages of Mauves, St-Jean-de-Muzols and Tournon. Mauves is the seat of the most dynastic families: Jean-Louis Chave, Coursodon, Gonon, Gripa and Marsanne. Their benchmark wines are marked by red fruits, fine-grained tannins and slight floral notes. At St-Jean-de-Muzols and Tournon, the wines have interesting tension and fine fibre, a true granite ‘clack’; senior figures here include Guigal and Delas, with their Vignes de l’Hospice and Côte St-Epine plot-specific wines.

François Villard, Mairlant, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

94

<p>Lush, spicy, blueberry nose which has charm and vigour. Rich and fleshy, this is a broad, sumptuous style of St-Joseph that conveys the finesse of the granite. Plenty of finesse and length.</p>

2010

RhôneFrance

François VillardSt-Joseph

Louis Chèze, Ro-Rée, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

94

Nose comprises smoked, red berry fruit with notes of the forest, graphite, sloe and macerated prunes. Vigorous and spicy, with a touch of pepper, it’s a hedonistic and somewhat indulgent example, but pleasing to every sense.

2010

RhôneFrance

Louis ChèzeSt-Joseph

Eric Rocher, Terroir de Champal, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

92

<p>Beautiful aromatics here; cloves, violet, blueberry, incense, laurel, Lapsang Souchong and plum. The texture is silky and the fruit quality bright and persistent with flavours of Indian spice, ripe black fruits and pot pourri. Long and luxuriant on the finish, this is most impressive.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Eric RocherSt-Joseph

Yves Cuilleron, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

92

<p>Fine, subtle yet complex nose with lavender, blueberry, hints of violet and bay, and no shortage of ripe fruit, and just the right amount of meatiness. The counterpoint between sweet fruit and peppery back palate is impressive. Needs a little time to fuse.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Yves CuilleronSt-Joseph

Romain Duvernay, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

91

Forest floor and hints of clove and dark chocolate dominate the nose here, with touches of raspberry and mulberry. The creamy palate is southern in style, bearing garrigue herbs in its red stone fruit flavour. Ends with a kick and good fruit verve. Will sing more with time.

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Romain DuvernaySt-Joseph

Delas, Sainte Épine, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Smoky bacon and blackberry aromas lead off, with life and an extra red-meat style depth. The palate is finely balanced, beautifully harmonious and has no shortage of pedigree. The tannins are fine, the acidity poised. Genuine St-Joseph &ndash; on the button.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

DelasSt-Joseph

Domaine Bernard Gripa, Le Berceau, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Cerebral nose with floral and spicy notes to the black fruit, and a whiff of white pepper. Concentrated palate with a kernel of sweet fruit and lush, chewy tannins. Not fully integrated yet but has welcome swagger and persistence</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Domaine Bernard GripaSt-Joseph

Domaine des Remizières, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

Nose has a deep, black, stone fruit air, with traces of oak, spearmint and laurel. Palate is full, shapely, spicy and complex, with vibrant acidity to balance the weighty, lush fruit. Not quite in harmony yet, but just needs some time.

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Domaine des RemizièresSt-Joseph

Domaine Faury, La Gloriette, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>A powerful nose suggesting a concentrated and richly fruity wine which is spot on, as the palate is concentrated, with ripe loganberry and cherry fruit, plus enveloping, ripe tannins balanced by lively acidity. A down-to-business, complete, satisfying wine.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Domaine FaurySt-Joseph

Domaine Michelas St Jemms, Sainte Épine, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Attractive, spicy nose of cassis, loganberry, violets, blueberries and laurel. Has a sealed, baked layer of black fruit, plus a roasted, meaty aspect. Not much flesh or weight but has charm and authenticity, and the balance is impeccable; it should age well.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Domaine Michelas St JemmsSt-Joseph

Free Run Wines, Les Calades, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>The nose mingles baked raspberry tart, brioche, Indian spices and black cherry with a lurking strength underneath. Fresh attack, sleek and concentrated, it&rsquo;s not yet fully unwound. A traditional style made by a good grower in a very good vintage.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Free Run WinesSt-Joseph

Louis Chèze, Caroline Cuvée Prestige, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

Spicy, seductive nose of juicy blackberry and an undertone of violet. Delicious and stylish with purity and finesse, the focus is on restraint, with a floral current through it and lots of energy. Needs a year to fine tune its elements, but has plenty of personality.

2010

RhôneFrance

Louis ChèzeSt-Joseph

Stéphane Ogier, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Opulent plum and blackberry nose, with a meat stock note, violets and bacon reminding one of a C&ocirc;te-R&ocirc;tie. The palate is wreathed in expensive oak, but has considerable weight, concentration, length and power and a pleasingly peppery finish. Requires robust foods to partner with such as game.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Stéphane OgierSt-Joseph

Pierre Gaillard, Les Pierres, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Toasty, smoky nose, plummy and quite meaty. The palate is solid with good tannic grip and earthiness. Broad and sustained across the back palate, delivering an ample mouthful of plump fruit with touches of sage, laurel and beef stock on the finish.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph

Domaine Mucyn, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Youthful aromas, divided between the red and black end of the fruit spectrum. The berry fruit is tasty, spread liberally around the palate, the juiciness the hallmark of the 2010 vintage. It&rsquo;s shapely and graceful rather than powerful, with a finely wrought tannic structure.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Domaine MucynSt-Joseph

Emmanuel Darnaud, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Black cherry nose, along with liquorice, damson, bay leaf, black fruits and a salty air. Rich, full-bodied, very concentrated, dense and forceful, with strong acidity to match the strength of tannins but without too much extraction. Very youthful but has fine potential.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Emmanuel DarnaudSt-Joseph

La Tour Coste, La Combe, St-Joseph, Les Serines, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

Ripe blackberry nose with red berry, nut, raisin and smoky touches. A modern-style Rhône with chocolatey tones, but it’s not heavy and has ample drive, with a tannic structure, but not in such a way to stifle potential from the natural granitic acidity and the ripe fruit.

2010

RhôneFrance

La Tour CosteSt-Joseph

Maxime Graillot, Equis, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

Crushed blackberry nose – vibrant, with stylish oak and hints of laurel, olive and charcuterie. Sleek and polished, the palate moves steadily, with a gentle wash of black fruit, and an iodine tang in its late moments. This has good potential with elegant acidity completing the picture.

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Maxime GraillotSt-Joseph

Pierre Gaillard, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Clear snap of red berry and hedgerow fruit aromas. Has charm, succulence and an almost ethereal Pinot-like character, entwined with more southern, warmer notes of cherry and orange grove with spice and pepper on the finish.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph

Vidal-Fleury, St-Joseph, Saint-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2010

My wines

90

<p>Pine needle, bacon, redcurrant, pepper and clove on the nose. Ripe, almost sweet, silky in texture, yet still showing attractive acidity, with lovely stony minerality underpinning the black fruit core. Vibrant and charming &ndash; a countrystyle wine with an agreeable sense of terroir.</p>

2010

Saint-JosephFrance

Vidal-FleurySt-Joseph

Decanter Staff
Decanter Team

Content written and compiled by the Decanter Team