The Wine Society celebrates 150th anniversary with new series
The launch of the initial 11 wines in the celebratory Generation Series is the first of many initiatives to mark the retailer’s landmark anniversary.
The launch, on 10 January, of the first 11 wines in The Wine Society’s Generation Series marked the beginning of a celebratory year, commemorating the retailer’s 150th anniversary, packed with special activities and limited releases.
In addition to the release of the two special ranges created specifically for – and only available during – the 150th anniversary, 2024 will see The Wine Society (The Society) host its biggest-ever programme of tastings, exhibitions and events.
The business will also launch The Society’s Climate & Nature Programme, through which the company’s suppliers will be able to access £60,000 to implement sustainability initiatives in their vineyards. The programme will be an annual fund, open for applications each January, with this year’s winners announced in May.
Founded in 1874 by Major General Henry Scott, architect of the Royal Albert Hall, and R. Brudenell Carter, a renowned ophthalmic surgeon, The Society introduced an innovative importing and trading model based on a close relationship with both producers and consumers. The world’s oldest member-owned wine community remains one of the most consistent sources of quality wine, at notoriously good value, in the UK market, thanks to longstanding partnerships with producers worldwide and to the talent of its award-winning buying team.
The relevance of the celebration perhaps goes well beyond the walls of The Society itself; it serves as a timely overview and assessment of the history of British wine trade throughout 150 years of many troubles and tribulations. The Society’s history is one of perseverance, pioneering but also survival – a cautionary tale as well as a beacon of hope in the face of today’s testing challenges.
Generation Series: Snippets of history
With four releases scheduled, each covering a half-century of The Society’s history, the Generation Series is a product of a fascinating research exercise. Buyer Matthew Horsley perused The Society’s original lists, dating back to 1880, to discover the essence of each era.
‘Back in early 2020 I started poring over old lists to find the wines, styles, regions and producers that dominated and defined each 50-year-period of The Society, immersing myself in what members of the time would have enjoyed, before putting together a shopping list and letting our team of buyers loose,’ Horsley explains.
Each buyer then worked with selected producers – all of whom play an important role, in one way or another, in The Society’s catalogue and identity – to craft each of the wines in the collection.
The labels of the Generation Series show relevant snippets of the impressive 150th anniversary Vine Line, a visual chronology of the last one and a half centuries. It shows the key moments in The Society’s trajectory and the most relevant references in the company’s lists, against the backdrop of contemporary historical events. The first release – 11 wines, available since 10 January (see tasting notes below) – reflects the listings that defined the period between 1874 and 1924.
The second release, in March 2024, will cover the following half-century (1924–1974), followed by a third batch, in June, for the wines covering the years between 1974 and 2024. The Series’ launch will close with a final release, in September, with wines that anticipate what the next 50 years might have in store.
All wines in the Generation Series are priced under £20 and ready to drink now (although some, as mentioned in the notes below, have some potential to age in bottle). A great opportunity to access limited edition wines, produced by some of the world’s most renowned and idiosyncratic winemakers, without breaking the bank.
Anniversary Series: Affordable exclusivity
Complementary to the Generation Series, the Anniversary collection, which will be made available to members in March, is a fine wine range, spearheaded by buyer Sarah Knowles MW. Since 2014 the buying team has been sourcing wines to be aged by The Society and ready for release in 2024. ‘The collection features some first-time collaborations between producers, as well as one-off bottlings,’ Knowles explains. ‘The wines reflect the very best fine wine styles across the world today, chosen for their ability to mature and improve with bottle age.’
But the commitment to value and affordability remains, with the team favouring more accessible styles within the fine wine spectrum (think Ridge’s Zinfandel, rather than Cabernet Sauvignon or Fontodi’s Chianti Classico in lieu of Gran Selezione). ‘The Society is well placed to be able to secure top cuvées from a strong and loyal set of suppliers who were delighted to have been asked to provide special bottles for our members to enjoy and celebrate with,’ Knowles adds.
One of the main things to celebrate this year is, precisely, the spirit of community and collaboration The Society has fostered since its inception. An important message in these troubled times.
The Wine Society’s Generation Series – First release
All wines tasted 27 November 2023. Prices do not reflect any special or multi-buy offers.
Prices are accurate at the time of writing.
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Gratien & Meyer, The Wine Society's Generation Series Crémant de Loire, Crémant de Loire, Loire, France, 2020
93
A nod to the rich, Chenin Blanc-based ‘Sparkling Saumurs’ listed by The Wine Society in its first decades, this Crémant de Loire is based on the region’s flagship white variety (54% of the blend) and produced with fruit from Gratien & Meyer’s own vineyards in Saumur. Expressive nose, with intense zestiness, fresh minerality and red fruit nuances. A subtle butteriness hints at the 30 months spent on the lees. On the palate, fleshy quince, pear and pink grapefruit are supported by a firm acid line. Sharp focus offset by mid-palate weight and textural depth. A balanced wine, of approachable complexity, with some potential to age in bottle.
2020
Gratien & MeyerCrémant de Loire
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, The Wine Society's Generation Series Wachenheimer Riesling, Pfalz, Germany, 2021
92
The Wine Society has, since its earliest years, always listed dry Rieslings from the Rhine. This iteration, from one of the retailer’s oldest suppliers, is therefore a natural addition to the celebratory Generation Series. Fresh and lifted nose, built around a core of fleshy peach, Asian Pear, lime and green apple, lined by a subtle flintiness and oiliness. Vibrant and persistent in the mouth, with an elegant, yet robust, acid line and refreshing minerality lifting the richness of the orchard and citrus fruit. Lingering spicy touches add complexity and energy. Also available in magnum.
2021
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
Les Vins Aujoux, The Wine Society's Generation Series Mâcon Villages, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages, Burgundy, France, 2022
An elegant (and great value) expression of the lovely 2022 vintage, this wine is a suitable tribute to The Wine Society’s member’s appreciation for white...
2022
Les Vins AujouxMâconnais
Quinta da Romeira, The Wine Society's Generation Series Bucelas, Bucelas, Portugal, 2022
89
Although wines hailing from the small DOC, just north of Lisbon, are now seldom on British shelves, it was a wine from Bucelas that The Wine Society first bought and listed when it was founded in 1874. For its Generation Series, the retailer approached Sogrape-owned Quinta da Romeira with whom it produced this crisp and linear Arinto. Lemon juice, lime zest and green apple aromas dominate, underscored by a subtle vegetal layer (freshly-cut grass, gooseberry). Linear and refreshing, this will be a perfect companion to seafood.
2022
Quinta da Romeira
López de Haro, The Wine Society's Generation Series Rioja, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
93
Before Tempranillo reigned supreme, Garnacha played a central role in Rioja, a protagonism the variety is slowly reclaiming by producers that recognise its potential for freshness and terroir expressiveness in the region. Among them is López de Haro with whom The Wine Society worked to produce this very interesting example of what its early Rioja listings might have tasted like. What customers get is, however, a window to the region’s future; a filigreed tannic structure and defined red fruit make for an intriguing and pleasurable wine, with a firm grip and spicy vibrancy. A touch of dark chocolate and garrigue add savoury interest to the finish.
2020
López de HaroRioja
Château Beaumont, The Wine Society's Generation Series Haut-Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2019
92
A classic left bank claret with a shy but alluring nose that opens slowly to reveal finely carved black fruit with a lining of dried mint and thyme. The same herbs mingle in the mouth with plum and blackcurrant, topped by a strong capsicum note. The tannins are firm but well presented, especially on the font palate. Measured spiciness adds depth and energy.
2019
Château BeaumontHaut-Médoc
Jacques Dépagneux, The Wine Society's Generation Series Régnié, Beaujolais, Régnié, Burgundy, France, 2022
92
Wines from Beaujolais have long been thirst-quenching favourites among Society members; the appellation is therefore an almost inevitable feature of the celebratory Generation Series’ line up. Offering drinkability and elegance in equal measures, this Régnié draws you in with its fragrant and lifted nose. A vibrant yet smooth palate - with great energy throughout - follows, bursting with spiced cherries, plum, blood orange and a delicious touch of white chocolate. Red apple crunch adds to the freshness and energy. A lovely wine, classic, vibrant and so enjoyable, with surprising persistence.
2022
Jacques DépagneuxBeaujolais
Niepoort, The Wine Society's Generation Series Portuguese Red, Portugal, 2021
91
A tribute to the Portuguese cross-regional blends listed by The Wine Society in its earliest catalogues, this wine was produced in partnership with Dirk and Daniel Niepoort using fruit sourced from field blends in Portalegre, in Northern Alentejo (20%) and Niepoort’s Dão estate (45%) and the producer’s Baga vineyards in Bairrada (35%). The result is a fresh and characterful wine, perfect for everyday drinking and best enjoyed a bit chilled, led by an alluring nose of crunchy red fruit (sour cherry, raspberry, red plum, pomegranate). Linear and focused on the mouth with the succulent red fruit topped by notes of dried herbs and supported by zesty tannins.
2021
Niepoort
Produttori di Manduria, The Wine Society's Generation Series Primitivo di Manduria, Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, Italy, 2022
90
A luscious, perfumed and seductive Primitivo hailing from old bush-trained vines, very fruit-driven and gastronomic. The palate surprises for its vibrancy and energy, with a juicy quality to the blackberry, plum and black cherry fruit, topped by notes of violet, chocolate and coffee. Firm yet soft tannins and a spicy finish. A great everyday red that will pair well with spicy pasta dishes, lamb or roasted vegetables.
2022
Produttori di ManduriaPrimitivo di Manduria
Williams & Humbert, The Wine Society's Generation Series Medium Oloroso, Jerez, Spain
94
A truly delicious Oloroso, bottled ‘en rama’ (unfined and unfiltered) with luscious depth perfectly balanced by refreshing acidity. Both sugar and alcohol are superbly integrated, making it impossible to perceive the 95 gr residual sugar or the 20.5% abv. Instead, rich flavours of coffee, caramel, honeycomb and apple pie take centre stage, lifted by refreshing orange zest. Endless finish, with lingering white chocolate, peach and poached plum. Irresistible.
Williams & Humbert
Quinta do Vale Meão, The Wine Society's Generation Series Reserve Port, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal
92
It was inevitable that The Wine Society special anniversary series would include a Port, and the retailer reached out to Quinta do Vale Meão, producer of The Society’s Exhibition Port, to blend this limited celebratory edition. Fragrant and transparent on the nose, with aromas of red cherries, violets, crushed rose petals and poached plum, this is a classy Ruby Port, bottled unfiltered and with potential to age for another decade. In the mouth, vibrant acidity lifts the luscious fruit core, supported by a firm tannic structure. A thick layer of cardamom, nutmeg and cinnamon adds both richness and playfulness. Balanced and elegant with very good alcohol integration.
Quinta do Vale MeãoPort
