Top Pauillac 2016 wines re-rated: Lafite, Mouton shine brightly

What I love about the 2016 Lafite is that the sweetness of the fruit comes through even at this early stage. Sweet, ripe blackberry and cassis pulse through the palate behind the tight construction of tension and classicism given by high acidity and plenty of tannins. It has ripeness and a sense of promise but, as is often the case with a young Lafite, it's not giving a lot away and we can expect it to age for many decades perfectly comfortably. Extremely accomplished, one to cherish. Matured in 100% new oak.

In 2016 Mouton has produced one of the top contenders for the wine of the vintage. Massive and profound, it also retains wonderful freshness which adds to the appeal of this monumental first growth. Deep and impenetrable in colour with cassis, exotic spice and lead-pencil/graphite notes on both nose and palate, this Mouton stays light on its feet whilst carrying the structure to age for 50 years. Still very young, this will probably be a 100-point wine with a few years extra ageing.

Lively red fruit notes of cherry, raspberry and blackcurrant. Intense and rich, with well-defined structure, firm tannins and a promising finish. Shows character, development and great ageing potential.

The 2016 is a vintage that shows off the best of Pontet, and is similar in feel to their 2010. Gorgeously rich right from the first nose, it opens stunningly in the glass, showing waves of tight black fruits, touches of redcurrant, liquorice and aniseed, fine tannins and mouthwatering salinity. It manages to remain balanced without losing the punch and concentration of Pauillac, rising up through the palate. It's hard not to fall in love with this wine, and it will clearly age with grace and ease. Bottled in July 2018.

This prestigious Pauillac second growth, owned by insurance company AXA Millésimes, has become known for its structured, ageworthy wines since major investments began in the 1980s. The 75ha vineyard is planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, vinified in stainless steel and aged 18 months in French oak barrels (80% new). Georgie Hindle: Dark fruit and salty stones. Clean, clear palate, lovely finesse to the fine tannins; sinewy and precise with cool blueberry and liquorice accents. Crystalline finish. Vincenzo Arnese: Notes of tobacco smoke and charcoal. Good intensity and richness on the palate, and the finish is balanced and crisp. Good tannin integration. Robert Mathias MW: Restrained and brooding at the moment, yet there’s plenty of depth beneath. Ripe bramble fruit, black tea and aniseed build on the palate. It’s a muscular wine that has a lot of potential.

A powerhouse of Pauillac, and another fifth growth estate that has long punched above its classification. Owned by the Cazes family since 1939, and now under Jean-Charles Cazes, Lynch-Bages combines tradition with a modern, international outlook. The 2016 vintage marked the end of an era before construction began on a new winery. The vineyard covers 90ha of deep gravel, planted mostly to Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2016 blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, vinified in stainless steel and wood, and aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 75% new. Georgie Hindle: Sweet toasted spices, bramble berry fruit. Muscular and powerful but also supersleek and defined. A classic Pauillac that needs time, yet it’s cool, crisp and very moreish. Vincenzo Arnese: Morello cherry, intense and rich. Great structure and body. Rich with a good finish and integrated tannins. Robert Mathias MW: A slightly toasty nose, with cedar, sandalwood and five spice. Ample cassis fruit on a charming, forward palate. Plenty going on, with Pauillac’s gravelly focus and drive.

A Pauillac fifth growth estate with a strong reputation for outperforming its classification, Grand-Puy-Lacoste remains family-owned and run by François-Xavier Borie. The estate’s 58ha of vines in production are located on deep gravel soils. The 2016 is a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Merlot, vinified in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (75% new). Georgie Hindle: Aromatic and forward. Lively, powerful, firm with plentiful tannins. Cherry, cranberry and ripe plum. Lashings of liquorice, cola and mint. Not overly spiced but still quite tight. Vincenzo Arnese: Elegant nose, very floral, hints of roses. Integrated sweet spice. The palate is fresh, with good structure. Nicely balanced. Robert Mathias MW: A Pauillac of great poise. A strong mineral inflection, with kelp and iodine notes that accentuate the ripe, dark berry fruit. Hints of black tea and cocoa. Very fine.