The ranking of these wines shows you exactly where my enthusiasms lie when it comes to manzanilla. I like wines with intensity and an appetising astringency. Unfortunately there is plenty – too much? – manzanilla in the marketplace that is watery in colour and in taste. These are inoffensive wines that have had the character and colour filtered out, so they won’t frighten off nervous Sherry drinkers. This light, summery white wine was meant to lure in new drinkers. In the end, though, those people chose Sauvignon Blanc, or even Pinot Grigio. Anything with a bit more flavour.