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Champagne expert and Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair, Richard Juhlin, has been fortunate enough to have sampled the vintage collection of Krug’s famous blanc de blancs, Clos du Mesnil, on two recent occasions. Here's what he thought of the wines...

Why Clos du Mesnil deserves a place in Champagne’s hall of fame

Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 2003

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Even in this bad-tempered vintage, the earth-shaking minerality of Krug’s single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil could not be dampened. It utterly trumps the phenolic grip of...

2003

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 2000

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At first, this exhibited alluring tropical passion fruit notes. But five years ago, it was transformed into a more honed and classical Clos du Mesnil....

2000

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1998

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From the very start, everything was perfectly in place in the 1998. It remains; complex, developed, generous, rich and smooth – a magnificent wine which...

1998

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1996

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An extraordinary champagne. Profoundly intense and complex with a fabulously opulent texture and nougat infused depth. A dazzling effort which still needs several more years...

1996

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1995

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Great purity, acidity and a charming apple fruitiness with almond and walnut oil notes in the background. But it lacks the sumptuous sophistication of other...

1995

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1992

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Clos du Mesnil is defined by its all-enclosing high walls, without which this would be an ordinary piece of ground. Anyone who walks through Clos...

1992

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1990

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At first, slightly bitter and one-dimensional. But after 15 minutes, it comes to life, with a clear and surprising scent of spice, juniper, papaya, and...

1990

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1989

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The '89 is one of the richest and most delicious vintages ever produced from Clos du Mesnil. Purists may say that the wine is a...

1989

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1988

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Still extraordinarily young, taut, pure, silky and mineral fresh. This dances and darts across the palate like a ballerina, yet there is also a hidden...

1988

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1986

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Still remarkably youthful, delicate and fine-tuned. It’s also fully mature with a deep, classic walnut oil character, broad buttery depth and Batard-Montrachet-like style.

1986

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1985

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This is the absolute epitome of elegance, pleasure and sophistication. The balance, complexity and length here leave me awestruck. Its polished butteriness, flinty minerality and...

1985

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1983

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Mature, and the essence of Chardonnay. A vibrantly attractive limey citrus attack is supported by a lively acidity which is very much intact. The elegance,...

1983

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1982

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This was and is the wine of the vintage, which I find more Krug-like than Mesnil-like. The nose is exotic with oriental spice, toffee, honey,...

1982

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1981

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Early in its life this had a shy scent, pale colour and delicate citrus flavour. Today, thanks to its terroir and Krug’s savoir faire, it...

1981

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1980

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Only the second vintage of Clos de Mesnil, it staggers me how good and long-lived this remains. I’ve experienced some bottle variation, but the best...

1980

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Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France, 1979

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Brilliantly crafted by Henri Krug this remains a near perfect blanc de blancs. The ultra-refined nose leans more to finesse than richness with juicy Cox's...

1979

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Richard Juhlin
Decanter Magazine, Champagne Expert & Regional Chair for Champagne

Richard Juhlin is the author of seven books on Champagne and a freelance writer contributing to magazines including Spectacle du Monde, La Revue de Champagne and Wine International. He also runs The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club, through which he arranges tours to Champagne and manages the members-only Richard Juhlin Champagne Bars in Stockholm and Copenhagen. The recipient of numerous awards, Juhlin was made a Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole in 2002, and last year he was presented with l’Ordre National de la Légion d’honneur for his contribution to Champagne. Richard Juhlin was Regional Chair for Champagne at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2018.