Best Margaux 2020 wines tasted en primeur
Jane Anson presents an overview of the 2020 vintage in Margaux revealing her highest-scoring wines and top-value picks.
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Margaux 2020
Average yield: 36hl/ha
Individual yields varied widely:
- 45hl/ha at Château Cantemerle,
- 31hl/ha at Château Malsescot St Exupery
- 16hl/ha at Château La Gurgue,
- 47hl/ha at Château Dauzac,
- 36hl/ha at Château Giscours.
What you find
Wines are tannic but flavour-packed, very classic – not as exuberant as 2018 or 2019 but structured and intense.
Philippe Bascaules at Château Margaux recorded less dehyrdration in the grapes in 2020 compared to 2018; so high alcohols were avoided, and a more classic balance is found in the wines.
Margaux 2020 vintage characteristics
Flowering went moderately well in Margaux according to consultant Eric Boissenot, but there was some difficulties during fruit set that contributed to low yields, as well as the hot dry summer.
A big storm in mid-August affected some areas with over 100mm of rain falling in three days. In September rainfall was similar across Margaux, Pauillac and St-Julien – around 65mm on average, falling mainly in the second half, before becoming more abundant in early October.
Patrice de Bortoli at Château Moutte-Blanc pointed out the contrast in the grape varieties, with the early-ripening Merlot being picked with ‘extraordinary levels of potential alcohol, harvested in the heat, then Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot rebalanced by the rain and cooler temperatures’.
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What’s new
You have a few estate changes here – no more Château Pontac Lynch, as all the vines have now been included in Château d’Issan, and no more Châteaux Charmant or La Galiane, as again the vines have been sold off, this time to Château Cantenac Brown.
There are new owners at Château du Tertre (the Helfrich family), and at Tour de Mons (Nathalie Perrodo, as at Marquis d’Alesme).
Over at Château Margaux, 2020 is the 100th anniversary of the white wine bottled under the name Pavillon Blanc (although there has been a white wine here for 300 years).
The greening of AOC Margaux also continues. Between 2016 and 2019, 30 winegrowing properties in the Margaux appellation were involved in actions to encourage biodiversity, protecting soil from erosion and providing refuges and food sources for insects and small animals. These included 15ha set aside for late mowing, 42ha of fallow plots, 5ha of wildflower meadows and 10km of hedges.
Top picks:
- Château Margaux,
- Château d’Issan,
- Château Palmer.
Value picks:
See the top-scoring Margaux 2020 en primeur wines
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Château Margaux, Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Cool and confident, an effortless Margaux that’s a clear success in 2020. Vivid colour in the glass with a delicately perfumed nose. Smooth and graceful on the palate, silky yet rich too, deepening in layers, much more vertical than wide at this point but with clear concentration. It expands slowly but surely, really taking its time before the juicy, chewy, succulent blackcurrant, liquorice, clove, sweet spice and cooling menthol touches come forward. Nuanced and detailed with precision and clarity to the taste and overall sensation. A Margaux for the ages.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

An irresistible wine from Palmer in 2020, sumptuous and voluptuous, open and appealing yet with all the elements so very carefully set in their place. Rich and evocative on the nose, dark and brooding with softly perfumed violet and rose aromas but it’s the texture that captivates on the palate with soft and seductive velvety tannins that immediately expand in the mouth giving power but also refinement. Mouthwatering and juicy but rich at the same time, so approachable you could drink this right now and just marvel in its nuance, structure and ease - and the oak integration is seamless. I love the liquorice bite and chalky sensation alongside vibrant black fruit though a sense of heat and menthol, liquorice freshness at the finish reminds you this is a serious wine that is built to last. This really carries the Margaux beauty and charm. A long life ahead but once opened this will disappear out of the bottle instantaneously.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château PalmerMargaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and lively fragrance on the nose – so perfumed and alluring. Delicate and pure on the palate, crystalline yet with such intensity. A rush of creamy tangy strawberries, herbal-edged raspberries and plum fruit lined with salty minerality gives the nuance and detail. It’s lightly framed with well integrated tannins that are fine and firm, tense just giving some tightness on the mid-palate, a sense of compactness, but then it opens again towards the finish. Cool and ethereal, this exudes charm and confidence. Extremely well made and totally seductive. I love the juiciness and sense of joyfulness, but it’s also beguiling as it deepens and grows in layers of chalk, slate, bramble fruits, perfume and florality. Another excellent wine from Rauzan with delicacy, detall and drinkability. Stunning.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Rauzan-SéglaMargaux
Château d'Issan, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Wonderfully intense on the nose, so ripe and concentrated with some toasted oak aromas. Supple and vibrant on the palate, the fruit is clean and crisp with tannins that are fine but firm, just giving the expression some tension and linearity. Cinnamon and clove edge the bright blackcurrant and black cherry fruit with lovely acidity. This is plush, and firm at the same time, clean and clear, fragrant and ripe. Lots going on here with bitter dark chocolate too. It’s all happening. Needs time to relax but this is wonderfully nuanced and really quite captivating. Grippy and refreshing, leaves a lingering impression.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château d'IssanMargaux
Château Giscours, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Wonderful aromatic expression, fragrant with wild flowers and dark bramble fruits as well as sandalwood. Rich and round on the palate, really so juicy and succulent, mouthwatering acidity balances the crushed stone texture and flavour - a combination of liquorice, slate, pencil lead and blackcurrants and black cherries. It’s concentrated but delivered so gracefully. Nicely layered, graceful and refined, a delicacy to this overall. It’s not weighty but precise and nuanced, lots of individual flavours really hitting different aspects. They haven't pushed this, it’s definitely still a little high-toned and slightly austere in the chalky tannins but I love the gentle fragrance, the air of quiet confidence but still with structure, concentration and persistence. Well worked. So much going on here, this will be delicious in time.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château GiscoursMargaux
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Blueberries, plums, black cherries - dark bramble fruits with herbal, medicinal nuances on the nose. Ripe and juicy, this is calm and supremely controlled on the palate - harmonious but you can feel the construction and winemaking. Fruit forward, round and generous but still with clear direction and precision alongside taught salinity and minerality. Tannins are slightly granular with edges of liquorice, clove, aniseed and cola giving a sense that this still needs time to soften a bit more. Two thirds barrel aged, one third in amphora.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Durfort-VivensMargaux
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Heady and expressive on the nose, seductive tones of ripe fruit and perfumed flowers. Gorgeous intensity on the palate, rich, round and ripe - gently chewy - but cool and refreshing too. This has a dynamic undercurrent with tannins that are fine but firm giving a slightly narrow frame. It’s a bit more serious than some, brooding, but clearly well made with definition. There’s a confidence here, vibrant and detailed fruit with an excellent lingering impression of the terroir in the slightly salty, chalky, graphite touch. Layered and well built with supreme classicism. A top buy. I'd like to own this one!
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Marquis d'Alesme, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and upfront, this is deep and rich with a dominant aspect of liquorice, salty stones, dark chocolate and cola, giving this a bit of a savoury and heady aspect with the fruit in the background slightly. Excellent weight on the palate, I like the firm structure and the integrated tannins. Serious and confident, I love the energy and the texture, it’s just a great density in the mouth, not too thick but the concentration matched by the acidity, and the freshness is great. Juicy and balanced. Quite tannic overall, but lovely life and lift at the end. Well worked.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Marquis d'AlesmeMargaux
Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Liquorice and aniseed tinged blackcurrants on the nose, very medicinal, deep, heady, perfumed too but softly scented, more savoury and spiced. Smooth and supple, fully tannic - they coat the mouth but seamlessly still leaving the vibrant, lively, forward and upfront fruit to shine. So much energy, crisp and crunchy dark fruit - blackcurrant, black cherry, raspberry and plum. A sense of heat enters on the finish with liquorice and clove coming through reminding you this is a serious wine with plenty of ageing potential. Excellent length and sense of classicism - a totally moreish Pavillon. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Ferrière, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Seductive fragrance on the nose, perfumed, clean and pure. Rich yet direct too, I like the sleekness with clarity, energy and a vibrancy to the dark fruits edged with clove and liquorice. Tannins are firm and grippy, taking hold of the palate, showing off the muscular side. Feels well made with a full body and persistence from start to finish. Nicely approachable.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château FerrièreMargaux
Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy, succulent and supple, this has lovely bright energy and impact straight away. Tannins are on the chalky mineral side, mouthcoating, but with a salty tang so they don't appear too ripe, heavy or rustic, but give width and structure. Feels quite powerful, with an underlying concentration and a tight clove and cedar tang to the tannins. Energetic, definitely more bright and pulsing right now. Purity of fruit is there, as is the acidity.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Cantenac BrownMargaux
Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Roses and patchouli aromas on the nose. Svelte and charming on the palate, sumptuous but restrained and delicate. Excellent sculpting and persistence with real floraity and herbal-touched cool blue fruits. It’s not massively weighty, more linear and focused but with style to it. Pretty, seductive and alive, all in the best way with a juicy core. An excellent effort this year and a wine that will be approachable soon but will age too. Sleek, refined, cool and classic.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Marquis de TermeMargaux
Château Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020
Plenty of juicy dripping autumnal fruit, cassis and blueberry with a crack of black pepper and a good lick of saline freshness on the finish that makes you want to take another sip. One of the clear successes, intense and concentrated with balanced tannins and acidity, if some bitter almond overtones. A yield of 32hl/ha. 40% new oak. Harvested right through to October 1st.Tasted twice.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Prieuré-LichineMargaux
Château Dauzac, Margaux, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and upfront, this has nice energy and life with good acidity and clear texture. Nicely framed with a toasty touch balanced by a hint of sweetness to the blackcurrant and blackberry fruit with some floral accents. Oak and spice are to the fore, just taking over some of the fruit expression at this point with chalky, liquorice and black olive-laced tannins. On the broader, more opulent end of the scale with richness and lots of flavour nuance.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château DauzacMargaux
Château du Tertre, Margaux, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Spicy on the nose, with cinnamon, exotic spices, paprika and clove more than fruit at the moment. The palate is more lightly framed than some Margaux, more delicate with less overt texture and weight, but still quite high acidity so it comes across as a little less impactful, with a creamy milk chocolate, salty undercurrent. A little closed right now, although overall there's balance. Feels delicate and well worked, just not hugely forward and expressive at this stage.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château du TertreMargaux
Château Labégorce, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Beautiful, perfumed blackcurrants on the nose, smells lovely. Juicy and supple, this has a nice roundness and a fleshy texture in the glass while still being quite focused and streamlined. This has a sleekness to the tannins, the fruit goes in one line from start to finish, so it’s not so expansive or particularly deep but does have a nice style to it. Good acidity, concentration and freshness. Focused, driven, clean with precision. Classic, easy to drink and to recommend.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château LabégorceMargaux
Château Siran, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Ripe and rich black fruits on the nose, smells heady and fully aromatic in a fruit-forward way, with blackcurrants, berries and sweet Ribena edges. Juicy and supple, nicely lively in the mouth, high acidity, with quite present tannins that are a little bit chalky and enjoyably bitter. Lovely viscous texture at first, with plenty of acidity and succulence, feels extremely youthful and on the edgy side right now, but is rounded, forward and full in body. It's on the richer, riper side and a has a touch of sweet jamminess to it alongside spiced nuance and some terroir influence via the cool, minty salinity. Extremely likeable and one to watch.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château SiranMargaux
Château Palmer, Alter Ego, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Devilishly charming on the nose, deep and seductive, expressive and richly scented. Juicy and succulent but with a richness in terms of texture and depth. Seductive, defined and refined with a chalky, grip to the tannins. Feels rich and charming at the same time with blackcurrant, black cherry, blueberry, pomegranate and a touch of balsamic with an undercurrent of crushed stones and liquorice. A lovely second wine with clear ageing potential.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château PalmerMargaux
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
