PREMIUM

Anson: All change at Burgundy’s Clos de la Commaraine

Jane Anson reports on ambitious renovation work at Clos de la Commaraine in Pommard and tastes through wines being made elsewhere in Burgundy by its new American investors.

‘We haven’t found any pottery, so you are probably okay,’ one of the archaeologists calls out cheerfully to us on our arrival.

I can feel Jean-Luc Vitoux relax, just a little, besides me as he takes this in.