Dom Pérignon 1990-2009: ‘The mother of all DP tastings’

Simon Field MW attended one of the most comprehensive retrospectives of Dom Pérignon ever held, celebrating the 28-year tenure of outgoing chef de caves, Richard Geoffroy...

It served as the most fitting tribute possible to the gentleman who has done more than any other to build the reputation of this great wine during his long tenure.

Geoffroy has sculpted a peerless range, starting with the 1990 vintage, but now he hands over the reins to a worthy successor – 42-year-old Vincent Chaperon, who has been shadowing the master since 2005. Geoffroy, a polymath and a former chemist, is to go and make saké in Japan. What a fascinating prospect…

The tasting

This tasting took place at 67 Pall Mall on 21 November, co-hosted by Nick Baker, managing director of The Finest Bubble, who had organised the entire event, and Jancis Robinson.

It was a great privilege to taste this extraordinary range, featuring all 15 of his blancs and seven of his 11 rosés, several in large formats.

Baker got the tone right straight away, saying, ‘Richard Geoffroy is as famous as Dom Pérignon himself’, the ‘human face’ of such a large house and the ‘great communicator of Champagne’. Geoffroy’s first communication of the evening was somewhat pithy: ‘This is going to be the mother of all DP tastings’. And so it proved.

The aphorisms quickly acquired a more cerebral tone, as we learnt the thinking behind the highly successful Plénitude range, created specifically to illustrate Champagne’s somewhat misunderstood and certainly undervalued capacity to age beautifully.

The first plénitude is the ‘normal’ release, after eight years or so of ageing. The second plénitude is released after 15 years and replaces the old Oenotheque range, while the third, rarest plénitude will be released after 20-30 years of ageing.

Disgorgement and release dates are entirely pragmatic, selected only with legacy in mind. The dictates of commerce and the thirst of the market are entirely secondary to the quality of the liquid in the bottle. This is how it should be, and is Geoffroy’s most impressive bequest.

And with Chaperon, the legacy seems assured- he’s been well trained after all! Geoffroy, with characteristic wit, summed up the night by wishing his successor well: ‘You are very lucky, you have 2012 DP to come’, adding with a smile, ‘don’t mess it up!’.

I am certain that he will not, but good luck all the same, Vincent. The bar has been set unbelievably high.

Tasting Dom Pérignon 1990-2009:

The 1992 P2 was affected by cork taint and is therefore not reviewed below

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