Expert’s choice: Madeira

The 2020 bottling of an iconic wine after it has spent a century in cask: deep mahogany; rich, pungent thick-cut tawny marmalade character, scented, floral too and slightly singed around the edges; powerfully concentrated, candied orange peel with a touch of malt, racy acidity and honeyed richness in perfect balance. Utterly ethereal.

Where else would you find a wine from the 19th century that has only just been bottled? Bottled for the first time in 2020 and there is more still ageing in cask: deep mahogany, powerfully concentrated yet also restrained with a hint of woodsmoke on the nose; singed, slightly toasted with glorious texture and mouthfeel, bitter-sweet mid-palate, just as it should be, leading to a magnificent flourish on the finish. Sublime.

Made during the verão quente (‘hot summer’) of the Portuguese revolution from grapes grown Madeira’s cooler north coast: mid-deep amber with a reddish glint; very expressive, lifted but still tight-knit on the nose, classic dried fruit (figs, raisins, Elvas plum), nuts, hickory and exotic, peppery spices, perhaps a bit funky but awe-inspiring complexity; savoury, mouthfilling yet taut, seemingly off-dry yet rich and intense with a wonderfully spicy, slightly saline finish. Idiosyncratic undoubtedly but a ‘wow’ of a wine to savour.

Mid-amber with a coppery glint; lovely leathery complexity on the nose with raisins, dried figs and crystalised fruit; very smooth and suave with, glorious richness offset by a streak of acidity with a long, mouthfilling, figgy finish. A classic Malmsey with complexity and poise. Serve on its own after dinner or alongside a crème brûlée.

A worthy platinum winner at the Decanter World Wine Awards earlier this year: deep amber-mahogany, lovely savoury richness with spicy, dried fig concentration and a touch of savoury beef tea. Great purity and definition. Boal stands up well to curry – like chutney – or serve with caramelised oranges!

Helena Borges always says ‘never underestimate blends’ and she is responsible for some exquisite blended wines like this medium-dry Verdelho: pale-to-mid amber/orange with lovely smoked, slightly singed gun flint aromas, sings from the glass; fine savoury-toasted, slightly saline flavours with wonderful focus and concentration from age, long and lithe. Perfect with consommé.

Mid-deep green tinged mahogany; glorious leathery-spicy complexity, cinnamon toast; rich and suave initially (though medium-dry in style) with spicy astringency and a classic ‘sweet and sour’ with racy acidity all the way through to the finish. Sublime.

Barbeito make a speciality of these small, lot-numbered Malvasia blends: an earlier lot (No12089) won a trophy in the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards. Gentle, floral figgy character on the nose with similarly gentle flavours, redolent of quince marmalade with seamless length and real poise.

The H&H 10-, 15- and 20-year-old blends are emblematic varietals and regular gold medal winners at the Decanter World Wine Awards. I am a big fan of Verdelho: deep amber with a tangy lime marmalade character, a touch richness mid-palate offset by lovely streak of acidity and a fabulous toffee apple finish. Drink on its own as an off-dry aperitif or with clear soup.

Pale-mid amber with a golden glint: lovely, savoury-smoky aromas, a hint of tea leaf, quite expressive of Verdelho; beautifully clean and incisive, medium dry with a touch of raisiny sweetness offset by a lovely streak of acidity and a long toasty finish.

Made by Barbeito, mostly from Verdelho, for the US market where this lighter style is much appreciated. (The name comes from some casks that were left on a beach and diluted by the rain). Deep golden colour with lovely smoky aromas and savoury-toasted flavours offset by a touch of dried apricot sweetness. Pure and appetising: drink on its own or with clear soup.

Barbeito have revived this nearly forgotten grape, now grown at São Jorge on the north side of the island: savoury almond-like aromas which continue on the palate (salted peanuts) with dried apricots and slightly caramelised citrus. Medium dry in style: a wine to savour and ponder.

Sercial is not the easiest grape to appreciate but this amber-coloured wine has lovely, lifted savoury-nutty aromas and clean spicy flavours with characteristic acidity. Text book Sercial: a wonderful aperitif or try a glass to accompany sushi and sashimi.

Made from Tinta Negra which, at this level, makes up for what it lacks in complexity with deep, easy-going satisfaction: mid-deep amber-mahogany with aromas and flavours of raisin and dried fig and a finish akin to Madeiran honey cake (bolo de mel). Gorgeous at the end of a meal with a slice of strong cheese accompanied by dates and nuts.

A 50:50 blend of Malvasia and Bual with a touch of new oak, intended as a dessert wine. Amber-mahogany with a soft, smooth caramelised style, well -defined figgy richness and a touch of coconut and spice on the finish. Great with cheese, plum pudding and this also stands up well to caramelised or chocolate desserts.

A mellow and readily approachable wine made entirely from Tinta Negra, hence the figgy aromas and simple but satisfying heady-raisiny fruit offset by citrusy acidity and savoury-sweet finish. Delicious with a slice of fruit cake or a piece of cheese.

The best-selling brand of madeira, much improved of late, made from Tinta Negra and subject to estufagem for three months then aged for up to three years in old oak: red-mahogany in colour with lovely fruit cake aromas and straight forward raisiny fruit, its soft richness offset by a fresh acidity that prevents the finish from cloying. A good pick-me-up at any time of day, especially with a slice of fruit cake or a treacle tart.

Mostly Tinta Negra with some Verdelho, aged for five years in wood: pale gold, soft and aromatic with dried apricot flavours and a fresh finish (medium-dry). Light and easy-going in style, hence the designation ‘Rainwater’. A good aperitif, with salted nuts, olives, consommé, and Comté cheese.