Not familiar with Irancy? Well, you’re not alone. Even though it carries a Burgundy village appellation—high praise, since less than half of Burgundy wines do—more than a few residents of Beaune, to whom I spoke last autumn, could not identify it.
In addition to its off-the-beaten track location near Chablis, regulations allow growers to include up to 10% of César, a near-forgotten red grape, in the blend.
Local lore has it that the Roman legions of Julius Caesar planted César millennia ago. Though DNA analysis of the grape has disproved that myth, the name remains.