They say you can tell when you’re getting older because policemen start looking younger. I can’t say I’ve noticed. What I have noticed is that Rioja gran reservas are looking younger. Not just looking younger, but tasting younger too. Frankly, many seem to be reservas masquerading as gran reservas.
The tasting accompanying this feature only confirmed it. So too did our 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards tasting. Plenty of amiably juicy youngsters, some with distinctly tight tannins, many with showy fruit, belying the vintage shown on the label. But gran reserva, really?