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Barolo Riserva 2015 vintage report: 30 wines tasted

Aldo Fiordelli assesses the Riserva 2015 vintage, tasting and rating over 30 wines, and considers where the category fits in the overall hierarchy of Barolo.

By Aldo Fiordelli

published 5 June 2021

in Tastings

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Barolo 2015 Riserva — The vineyards near Barolo with town of La Morra beyond

(Image credit: Brian Jannsen / Alamy Stock Photo)

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The 2015 vintage

2015 was a warm yet good vintage.

According to Langhe Vini, the consorzio for Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe and Dogliani, ‘the climatic conditions recorded at the beginning of the summer laid the foundations for the ripening of the grapes about 10 days earlier than in the previous vintage, but in line with what we would call a “normal” year.

‘In terms of quantity, production was on average within the norm.’

Scroll down to see Aldo’s top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2015 wines

The insolation improved the colour-giving anthocyanins accumulated within the grapes.

In the finished wines, the quality of the tannins ensures elegant, long-lasting Riserva with good structure.

The 2015 vintage has been compared to 1999 by some commentators.

In my opinion, 2015 is without a doubt a good vintage – 4 out of 5 stars – with some outstanding wines, however, some of the wines are rather bold and lacking freshness.

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Barolo trends

So, has Barolo Riserva gone out of fashion?

There is no doubt that the birth and development, since 2010, of the Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) – 181 specific subzones within the Barolo appellation – has overshadowed the prestigious Riserva category.

Of course, MGA and Riserva could move forward arm in arm.

The idea was suggested at the last Nebbiolo Prima preview, where 330 wines were tasted but only 31 of which were Barolo Riserva.

These particularly long-aged wines represent a niche production, but the selection presented at Prima does not illustrate the whole picture.

What can be said is that the 2015 vintage was a great opportunity to produce a top Barolo built to age.

Despite labels such as Monfortino, which is the guiding light for Riserva, I must admit that I would have expected a bit more quantity and quality from the 2015 Riserva.

In terms of quality, outstanding examples aren’t lacking, mainly from suitable MGAs such as Bricchi or Sorì.

In terms of quantity, a lot of producers are releasing still-older Riserva: Oddero’s Vignarionda 2014, Domenico Clerico’s PerCristina 2011, Parusso’s Oro 2000.

This is a long-time tradition in Barolo, ever-present and possibly reinvigorated by the birth of the MGA system.

‘Riserva,’ explained Fabio Alessandria at GB Burlotto, ‘is an old idea of ancient winemaking based on high alcohol and cellaring to achieve quality’.

Top Barolo Riserva 2015 wines:

Barolo 2017 vintage report: 120 wines tasted Barolo 2016 ‘MGA’ late releases tasted Barolo & Barbaresco: 10 high-flying vineyard sites

Topics

Piedmont Vintage Guide Piedmont en Primeur

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The 2015 vintage

Scroll down to see Aldo’s top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2015 wines

Barolo trends

Top Barolo Riserva 2015 wines:

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Barolo 2017 vintage report: 120 wines tastedBarolo 2016 ‘MGA’ late releases tastedBarolo & Barbaresco: 10 high-flying vineyard sites

Massolino, Vignarionda Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, 2015

Ettore Germano, Lazzarito Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d'Alba, Piedmont, 2015

Oddero, Vigna Mondoca Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte

Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva, Piedmont, 2015

Brezza, Sarmassa Vigna Bricco Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, 2015

Ca' Brusà, Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai Riserva, Barolo, 2015

Palladino, San Bernardo Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, 2015

Cascina Ballarin, Bricco Rocca Riserva, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, 2015

Sobrero, Pernanno Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, 2015

Tenuta Carretta, Cannubi Riserva, Barolo, Barolo, 2015

Paolo Manzone, Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, 2015

E. Molino, Riserva del Fico Riserva, Barolo, La Morra, 2015

Boasso, Margheria Riserva, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, 2015

Silvano Bolmida, Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba

Cavallotto, Vignolo Riserva, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, 2015

Franco Conterno, Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba

Le Ginestre, Sottocastello di Novello Riserva, Barolo, 2015

Barolo 2017 vintage report: 120 wines tasted Barolo 2016 ‘MGA’ late releases tasted Barolo & Barbaresco: 10 high-flying vineyard sites