Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino: All the ‘nines’ back to 1969

With one foot grounded firmly in the past, Col d’Orcia is simultaneously leading Montalcino into the future. The third-largest estate in the region, it has been owned by the Cinzano family since 1973.

The property is located in the southwestern limits of the appellation, extending over the hills below the town of Sant’Angelo in Colle.

Biodiversity

Much of the 540 hectares is covered with Mediterranean shrubs and forest. The rest is cultivated with farro for pasta and olives for olive oil. Col d’Orcia has also just started making honey. ‘I like to say we produce wine as well,’ says Count Francesco Marone Cinzano who has been at the helm for close to three decades.

Besides a commitment to biodiversity, Col d’Orcia has long been at the forefront of research and development. This includes clonal selection, planting density, rootstocks and cover crops. As of 2013, the wines are certified organic.

While findings are used to make improvements, the estate’s Brunello remains traditionally crafted with long ageing in large oak casks. Selection is made in the vineyard through multiple passages. Grapes for the Rosso di Montalcino are typically picked first for a fresh, fruity expression of Sangiovese.

‘We might leave just one bunch per plant and go back later to pick it for Brunello,’ explains Marone Cinzano.

Col d’Orcia produces two Rosso di Montalcinos, a standard Brunello, a Brunello Riserva and two single-vineyard Brunellos – Nastagio and Poggio al Vento Riserva.

Library vintages

Part of the wealth of Col d’Orcia is its extensive library of wines. ‘Conservatively speaking we have over 50,000 bottles of older vintages,’ asserts Marone Cinzano. Wines date back to 1962, when the property was owned by Stefano Franceschi.

Each year, the family hosts an invitation-only dinner during Benvenuto Brunello (the launch of the latest vintage), sharing wines from the historic cellar. For the 2019 edition, Marone Cinzano invited Chef Roberto Rossi of one-Michelin-star restaurant Il Silene to prepare dishes to accompany vintages ending in ‘nine’, going back to 1969.

I returned to the estate a few days later to revisit some of these gems and do a side by side comparison of 1999 and 1998. While the former is widely considered superior and has the bones for long ageing, I was delighted by the regular 1998. Tasted from magnum, it was at its ideal state of development and drinking beautifully now. Of the older vintages, 1979 was an absolute standout.

Col d’Orcia has long been a staple for me – reliable, consistent and satisfying. The regular Brunello is terrific value for money while Poggio al Vento is built for the cellar. It’s easy to get distracted by Montalcino’s up-and-comers but Col d’Orcia is a mainstay that upholds its position.

Col d’Orcia wines – tasting history:

Col d’Orcia factbox

Size of estate 540ha

Hectares under vine 144ha

Annual production 700,000 bottles

Foundation c.1890 (named Fattoria di Sant’Angelo in Colle). Renamed Col d’Orcia c.1958

Current owners The Cinzano family, since 1973

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