Domaine Marquis d’Angerville: 2021 vintage review & 17 wines tasted

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is one of the leading producers of red wines in the Côte de Beaune, owning 11.5ha of premier cru climats out of the 110ha designated within the appellation, many situated in Volnay’s best-known crus including Taillepieds, Champans, Caillerets and Clos des Angles.

Perhaps its most famous is the historical monopole Clos des Ducs – a south-facing climat on steep slopes right next to the village, marked by excellent drainage and stony soils.

Although this may be d’Angerville’s most notable cru, Taillepieds (located to the south of Volnay and adjacent to Meursault) is clearly capable of matching (and sometimes exceeding) it.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 17 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville wines

Guillaume d’Angerville (the sixth generation in charge of the family estate) took over at the domaine in 2003 following the death of his father, Jacques.

2021 represents his 18th vintage and it was one which Guillaume characterises as ‘the odd one out’, going on to explain, ‘for the younger generation of winemakers, they have seen nothing like this in 20 years.’

2021 was undoubtedly a difficult vintage, but modern winemaking techniques have played a key part in making these wines such fine expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Guillaume compared the vintage to those from previous decades: ‘2021 is like the vintages of the ‘70’s and ‘80’s but without the defects,’ and described the end result as ‘bright, joyous and crystal clear’, observing that 2021 was ‘salvaged by three beautiful weeks in September, bright light and a strong northerly wind.’

The cooler nights in September were also important. ‘Harvesting in September is much better, as there is just a gradual increase in sugar content, compared to harvesting in August,’ says Guillaume.

Despite the benefits derived from the fine September weather, volumes were still significantly reduced with the usual production of 12 barrels of Clos des Angles reduced to just two. Only one barrel of Caillerets was produced, compared to the normal volume of six.

The estate has been biodynamic for many years and utilises 100% destemming. Pumping over is favoured rather than punching down, with rarely more than 20% new barrels used.

The emphasis is clearly on finesse and restraint, a character exemplified in 2021. Acidity is pure and laser-like, and the top wines will undoubtedly age beautifully for many years.

Alongside the 2021s, a bottle of 2020 Champans Premier Cru provided a fascinating contrast, confirming the difference in character between these two years.

While 2021 was light in colour, lifted and floral, the 2020 displayed the deep purple hue typical of the year, with extra ripeness and concentration on the palate. Both vintages of Champans are high-class wines and it will be fascinating to see how these develop over the next few decades.

As well as the range of premier crus, Guillaume d’Angerville also showed a pure, precise Bourgogne Passetoutgrains and a Bourgogne Rouge, with the latter providing a great introduction to the style of the domaine.

White wines were represented by a 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Blanc and two vintages of Meursault Santenots Premier Cru. The Aligoté was rather dominated by acidity at the moment, although the Meursault Santenots displayed the concentration and finesse hoped for.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is certainly one of the leading red-wine estates in Volnay, and one which opts for understated elegance rather than power. Quizzed on his vintage preference, Guillaume noted: ‘I have a very soft spot for 2021.’ Regardless, these are the sort of wines I love to drink.

17 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville wines tasted and rated

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