Expert’s choice: Sardinian red wines

As in so many of Italy’s regions, wine is an integral part of Sardinia’s history and economy and, not least, its varied gastronomy. Archaeological discoveries bear witness to a winemaking heritage dating back to Roman times and most likely the earlier preRoman Phoenician era.

Sardinia was blanketed by a sea of vines with nearly 80,000ha of vineyards in the 19th century, however today’s vineyard area covers just 27,000ha – a reflection of a growth in quality wines from specific geographical areas at the expense of ‘rotgut rosso’.

Sardinia is Italy’s Cannonau stronghold, and it is – along with its counterpart white variety Vermentino – the grape for which Sardinia is best known in Italy and overseas. Of the 41 grape varieties planted in Sardinia, the Cannonau di Sardegna DOC represents the largest vineyard area, at a little more than a quarter of all plantings.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 18 premium Sardinian red wines

Known as Grenache in France and Garnacha in Spain, this Mediterranean red grape variety is largely grown in the eastern province of Nuoro and the wild, eastern hillside areas of Barbagia, Ogliastra and Sarrabus, and Romangia in Sardinia’s north.

Island identity

Cannonau responds well to the Mediterranean climate to produce robust, spicy reds characterised by red fruits infused with island herbs: maquis, or garrigue. The grape can easily reach powerful, even overpowering alcohol levels of 15% or more. Freshness is the key to balance in wines such as Sedilesu’s Mamuthone di Sardegna, whose bright, concentrated sweet and sour cherry fruit characters and sinewy tannins can be redeemed by a spine of acidity that verges on the saline.

The fact that the island’s altitudes and soils are so varied (with granite, basalt, schist, marne and alluvial clay) gives it every opportunity to show off its multi-faceted personality. At higher altitudes of 600m, significant day/night temperature swings allow bush-trained vines to produce relatively low yields and, consequently, wines whose relatively high alcohol is to an extent mitigated by natural acidity – even if many of today’s more elegantly drinkable and fresher examples are closer to 14% alcohol

Between them, the next most widely planted red grape varieties – Carignano, Monica, Pascale and Bovale Sardo (known locally as Muristellu) – are not as extensive in vineyard area as Cannonau.

Of these, Bovale Sardo, which has been identified as the same grape as Spain’s Graciano, has perhaps the most potential, as seen for instance in the likes of Atha Ruja’s Muristellu in Dorgali, close to the east coast.

Monica di Sardegna is not generally known for its high quality but can be eminently soft and quaffable in cherryish mode in the hands of a good producer such as Ferruccio Deiana. Carignan (‘Carignano’) produces deep-coloured wines and occasional glimpses – in the southwest’s hot, sunny Carignano del Sulcis DOC, for instance – of fragrant, spicy, peppery reds capable of transcending the rustic in the right hands.

At the same time, the Isola dei Nuraghi IGP – by far the largest IGP on the island at more than 3,000ha, with some 800ha planted (Laore Sardegna, 2020) – allows for the introduction of so-called ‘improving varieties’ such as the Bordeaux grapes, and this works to good effect in wines such as Agricola Punica’s Barrua and Montessu.

Tasting notes and scores for 18 Sardinian red wines

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