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First Taste: Clos des Goisses 2014 & new Philipponnat releases

Champagne house Philipponnat has released the 2014 vintage of its famous single-vineyard Clos des Goisses cuvée, alongside the 2012 Les Cintres and a late-disgorded edition of 1998 Clos des Goisses.

The boutique Champagne house of Philipponnat is in the village of Mareuil-sur-Ay in the ‘Grande Vallée’ of the Marne river, home to one of Champagne’s most remarkable vineyards. A rare monopole – an entire vineyard owned by one producer, in this case by Philipponnat – the walled Clos des Goisses contains 5.5ha of vines that tumble down towards the river, on a startlingly steep slope, catching more sun than almost any other site in the region with its directly southern exposure.

Presenting the new 2014 release of Clos des Goisses in London on 5 September 2023, Charles Philipponnat had half an eye on the next morning’s Eurostar back to Champagne to begin the year’s harvest, which is earlier than his neighbours are permitted to harvest to thanks to a special authorisation granted to the Clos des Goisses vineyard.

Scroll down to see Tom Hewson’s tasting notes and scores for Philipponnat’s new releases

Tom Hewson’s tastes and rates Philipponnat’s new releases

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