Vincent Chaperon is now firmly ensconced as Dom Pérignon’s chef de caves, his former master’s voice and influence never far away – both in a flamboyant and somewhat philosophical turn of phrase (this wine has ‘impulsion and magnetism’) and also in almost unparalleled winemaking genius.
We can, however, forgive the hyperbole when the wines are as good as this.
The 2006 vintage
2006 is the fifth consecutive Rosé released by Dom Perignon, an unprecedented flush of brilliance. It’s the child of a warmer vintage, closer in style to the ‘05 and the ‘03 than the cooler ‘04, but better than both to my mind.
This may be partly explained by the fact that in 2006, a new winery dedicated to red wine was up and running. The red wine is fundamental to the personality of the rosé, and 20% has been added to the 2006 rosé, from three villages only (Hautvillers, Aÿ and Bouzy).
Its personality contributes to a magnificently harmonious assemblage, born out of diversity and an inherent tension.
Picking time and winemaking both defer to the final blend – all the more important in a year where the challenge of a July heatwave and a distinctly lacklustre August had to be met head-on.
It’s hard to disagree with Vincent, who describes this wine as a ‘veritable ode to Pinot Noir’. A cerebral piece of poetry, and one which will linger long in the memory.
First taste: Dom Pérignon Rosé 2006