First taste: Sassicaia 2021

Early February saw the UK launch of the new vintage of Bolgheri superstar, Sassicaia, tasted alongside three cherry-picked older vintages (1998, 2011 and 2016), courtesy of UK agent, Armit Wines. Scroll down for notes and scores of the new Sassicaia 2021 and Le Difese 2022 releases [subscriber-content]The 2016 was my pick of those; coming from a superb vintage it was bound to impress, and its combination of fine structure, generous fruit and super-fresh character charmed many. ‘People buy it and it just gets locked away,’ Armit's managing director Brett Fleming noted, adding that it was the first opportunity he had had to taste this elusive vintage of Sassicaia. The 2011 and 1998 were the other two vintages on display, all in the ‘classic’ mould showing Sassicaia's shining qualities in ripe, but not opulent, years. Back to the 2021... It was the first chance to taste the 2021 vintage of Sassicaia since bottling in mid-January 2024, alongside the new 2022 vintage of Le Difese – the estate's entry-level red. Production was slightly higher in 2021 compared to 2020, which is good news for those hoping to get hold of a case. While winter rains refilled water reserves in the soil, and February and March were sunny and warm, temperatures plummeted in mid-April and some vines in less well ventilated areas were affected by frost. The summer began hot and dry, leading to the development of smaller-than-average berries. Rain came at just the right time to ensure a healthy crop, enabling the grapes to reach full phenolic ripeness. ‘We had a nicely paced harvest,’ stated Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, head of external relations and daughter of San Guido president Marquis Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, ‘surely a very fortunate vintage for us, for Bolgheri.’ The 2021 is a potentially perfect wine (although only time will tell...), with its hallmark freshness allied to a lightness of step and purity of fruit expression. A seriously impressive Bolgheri red. [breakout] About Sassicaia Sassicaia is the sole property in the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, but shares key production rules with the wider Bolgheri denomination. Consequently, it's a steadfast blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. What arguably gives it an edge over other wines in the area is the elevation of its vineyards (100 to 300 metres above sea level), the diversity of soils (limestone marls, pebbles, clay), and the amount of woodland which helps to relieve humidity and provides a cooling influence for the vines, as well as the west/southwest exposures which make the most of the sea breezes.

The various component wines (around eight to 10, according to Priscilla) age in a mixture of second- and third-use barriques before racking into new and used barriques for a further period of ageing. The various wines are then blended and undergo micro-oxygenation in stainless steel before bottling, which happened in mid-January of this year for the 2021 vintage.

[/breakout] This release comes at a time of development at the 2,500ha Bolgheri estate. The Guidalberto (Tenuta San Guido's Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend) is due to move into its own winery in a converted brick factory, following the decision to elevate it from the shadow of Sassicaia on its own merits. Sassicaia 2021 will be available from 1 May 2024, with an RRP of £1,250 per 6x75cl in bond in the UK, via Armit. [/subscriber-content] Sassicaia 2021: First taste [wine-collection] Related articles Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto: 2001-2021 vertical The lesser-known Tuscany: 12 hidden gems to discover Burgundy 2022 en primeur: Full report plus top-scoring wines