Full-bodied Spanish red wines: 10 top bottles worth seeking out
From Ribera del Duero to Rioja, Spain produces a range of wine styles that will appeal to lovers of full-bodied reds. Julie Sheppard reveals which grapes, styles and regions you should look out for and recommends bottles to try – including some well-priced hidden gems.
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If you’re a lover of hearty red wines, then Spain will undoubtedly already be on your radar.
With its wealth of native red grapes, such as Tempranillo, and traditional oaked styles like Rioja gran reserva, Spain can deliver reliable quality.
‘The 2001, 2005, 2010, even 2009, and then the 2011 vintage were all showing well,’ noted Sarah Jane Evans MW, DWWA Co-Chair and author of The Wines of Northern Spain, at a recent panel tasting.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 full-bodied Spanish red wines to stock up on
Ribera del Duero in northwest Spain is another name that should be on your list.
Again, Tempranillo is the star here, put to good use by top producers such as Vega Sicilia and Dominio de Pingus. ‘All great Ribera wines are the result of careful site(s) selection, mature vines, low yields, smart winemaking and deft ageing,’ notes Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, DWWA Regional Chair for Spain.
Meanwhile in the northeast of the country, the Catalan DOQ Priorat, with its high-altitude Garnacha and Cariñena vineyards, distinctive licorella slate soils and wealth of old vines, can also produce distinctive, concentrated red wines.
‘Priorat is the world’s strictest appellation in what concerns the legal definition of old vines, or vinyas vellas, a term that is only applied to vines planted before 1945,’ explains Ballesteros Torres.
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While many of the wineries in these three regions can command hefty sums for their top wines, there is value to be found elsewhere in Spain, as winemakers are constantly innovating and experimenting with both lesser known native varieties and international grapes.
For example leading producer Torres – which planted one of the first Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the whole of Spain in 1966 – has looked beyond its Penedès homeland: rescuing old vineyards in Priorat, as well as championing forgotten native grapes with its Ancestral Varieties project since the 1980s.
These include red grapes Garró and Querol, which are blended with Garnacha, Cariñena and Monastrell to produce Torres Grans Muralles (see below) in Conca de Barberà.
Another red variety that will probably be unfamiliar to most wine lovers is Bobal. Actually Spain’s third-most planted variety with 62,000ha, it was previously used to bulk up blends or to produce rather rustic, tannic single-varietal wines.
Recent improvements in winemaking – particularly in the Bobal heartland of Utiel-Requena, which is home to nearly 40% of the world’s total Bobal plantings – have led to a raft of quality wines appearing in the market. This prompted Decanter‘s first-ever Bobal panel tasting.
‘Bobal is a variety with potential, much still to be realised,’ noted Evans at that tasting. ‘Producers are showing that the “difficult”, “rustic” Bobal can be immensely adaptable, producing long-lasting reds, fresh rosados and sparkling wines.’ The fact that it is still so unknown, means that wine lovers can find tremendous value if they seek out top expressions of aged Bobal.
Bobal is one of the ‘discovery’ wines in this selection of top-scoring full-bodied reds from recent Decanter tastings.
Whether you have thousands of pounds to spend on top names for your cellar or want an affordable mid-week wine to enjoy, Spain will deliver.
Full-bodied Spanish red wines to try
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Dominio de Pingus, Pingus, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2018

Amid all the hype about its price and cult status, it’s easy to forget that Pingus is also a magnificent expression of both Ribera del...
2018
Castilla y LéonSpain
Dominio de PingusRibera del Duero
Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2010

This is, in my view, the best Unico in the last decade, with unmatched delicacy and complexity and the potential to improve in bottle over...
2010
Castilla y LéonSpain
Vega SiciliaRibera del Duero
Pago de los Capellanes, Parcela El Picón, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2015

The best vintage ever of this extraordinary wine. Coming from a small plot of land in Pedrosa, at the centre of Ribera, it is the...
2015
Castilla y LéonSpain
Pago de los CapellanesRibera del Duero
Bodegas Valderiz, Tomás Esteban, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2011

A luxurious wine, with black cherry, dark chocolate, clove and pepper. Well rounded after long ageing, with fine-grained tannins and a promise of future refinement...
2011
Castilla y LéonSpain
Bodegas ValderizRibera del Duero
Clos Mogador, Manyetes, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2014

Coming from a unique paratge (single vineyard) in Gratallops, pure old-vine Carignan grown in extremely poor soil. Currently classified as vi de vila but will...
2014
CataloniaSpain
Clos MogadorPriorat
Contino, Viña del Olivo, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2016

As its name indicates, this comes from vines located around an old olive tree in the upper part of the Contino estate. Combining Tempranillo with...
2016
RiojaSpain
ContinoRioja
Marques de Murrieta, Dalmau, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2016

One of a very small number of wines in Rioja that includes Cabernet Sauvignon – for historic reasons – this is an elegant, distinguished red...
2016
RiojaSpain
Marques de MurrietaRioja
Mustiguillo, Finca Terrerazo, Vino de Pago, Spain, 2017

95
A Vino de Pago wine sourced from Dolomite limestone vineyards 800m above the Mediterranean sea. Grapes are manually harvested then fermented in French oak. The wine then undergoes malolactic fermentation for 5-8 weeks, after which maturation takes place for 14 months in a combination of French oak casks and barrels. Sarah Jane Evans MW Expresses the youthful cherry and citrus intensity of Bobal, not losing the underlying savoury notes. Still feels very youthful and has the capacity to age and develop. A wine that has a sense of place. Christine Parkinson Inky black in colour, with dried herbs and raw fruit on nose and palate. A piquant, spicy, savoury note too. Just about showing some evolution. Very creamy texture, layers of oak and flavour, lively acidity and a real poise and excitement. Beth Willard Raisined and almost port-like on the nose. Full of dates, dried figs and chocolate. Dense with well integrated oak and a spicy finish. A big, intense wine.
2017
Vino de PagoSpain
Mustiguillo
Torres, Grans Muralles, Conca de Barberà, Catalonia, Spain, 2016

Taking its names from the walls surrounding Poblet Monastery in Conca de Barberà, this wine demonstrates the work done by Torres to resurrect native Spanish...
2016
CataloniaSpain
TorresConca de Barberà
Edetària, Finca La Pedrissa, Terra Alta, Catalonia, Spain, 2015

Terra Alta is Garnacha country, but in this single-vineyard Cariñena impresses. Its slatey, earthy aroma is followed by a palate laden with plump blueberry fruit,...
2015
CataloniaSpain
EdetàriaTerra Alta

Julie Sheppard joined the Decanter team in 2018 and is Regional Editor for Australia, New Zealand and South Africa & Spirits Editor.
Before Decanter, she worked for a range of drinks and food titles, including as managing editor of both Imbibe and Square Meal, associate publisher of The Drinks Business, senior editor of the Octopus Publishing Group and Supplements editor of Harpers Wine & Spirit. As a contributor, she has over 20 years’ experience writing about food, drink and travel for a wide range of publications, including Condé Nast Traveller, Delicious, Waitrose Kitchen, Waitrose Drinks, Time Out and national newspapers including The Telegraph and The Sunday Times.
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