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Ipsus: The making of a modern Italian cru

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW takes a look at the creation of the Mazzei family's Il Caggio Ipsus project, born in 2006, with a tasting of the first three vintages; 2015, 2016 and 2018.

With 600 years of winemaking history behind them, the Mazzei family (Castello Fonterutoli and Belguardo in Tuscany, and Zisola in Sicily) knew a good opportunity when they found one. So, in 2006, when presented with the chance to purchase a neighbour’s property, they couldn’t resist.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the first three released Ipsus vintages

The family – specifically 25th-generation Giovanni Mazzei, son of managing director Filipo Mazzei and current export manager – embarked on a voyage to discover what the 50-hectare property was capable of. As Giovanni related, ‘they never really made wine on the property, they just sold the grapes, so we had a lot to learn.’

After a few years, they discovered a location where the Sangiovese was different and, in Giovanni’s words, ‘full of character.’ The family decided to separate these vines from the rest, folding most vineyards into the family’s holdings, and created the Il Caggio Estate.

Tasting Ipsus: 2015, 2016 and 2018

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