Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay: Bucking trends

Classified ‘Exceptional’ in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine , Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay has long rubbed shoulders with Australia’s finest wines. [subscriber-content]Held aloft in the 2018 edition of the auction house’s form guide, it was the only white wine included in Langton’s new top tier ‘Heritage Five’, reflecting its ground-breaking influence. For Langton’s co-founder Andrew Caillard MW, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay represents ‘the beginning of Margaret River Chardonnay, the Gin Gin clone [which Leeuwin Estate pioneered and refined] and a distinct aesthetic and reference.’ This ‘distinct aesthetic’ underlines Art Series’ status as a true classic among Australian Chardonnays. Advised by Robert Mondavi, owners Dennis and Trish Horgan were the first to plant Chardonnay in Margaret River, in 1976. Resolutely focussed on the Gin Gin clone, pristine and primary varietal expression and barrel-fermentation (it’s aged for 11 months in 100% new Bordelaise-coopered oak barriques), this tremendously consistent Chardonnay has bucked trends. And why not, given fruit so potent it masterfully absorbs the oak? Impressive drive extends and balances Art Series’ flavoursome fruit and, released three years after vintage, it’s renowned for and rewards further ageing – as this vertical tasting ably demonstrates. The terroir Exploring the roots of its success, last November I visited the hallowed yin and yang parcels which define the Art Series. Planted in 1976, Block 20 enjoys an exposed position atop a northwest-facing, well-drained gravelly slope above the Boodjidup Brook. Like the contained vines, Block 20 produces the tighter, more concentrated, mineral fruit, while Block 22, planted in 1978 at the bottom of the slope in a sheltered spot with relatively vigorous vines, brings girth to the blend. The Gin Gin clone’s tendency to millerandage (poor flowering) produces both tiny (‘chicken’) and normal size (‘hen’) berries within the same bunch, which enhances structure in the wines. Larger ‘hens’ have higher acidity whilst, observed Head Winemaker Tim Lovett, thicker-skinned ‘chickens’ contribute ‘phenolic drive for age-worthiness’ - unconventionally, Leeuwin practises pre-fermentation skin-contact of six to eight hours for around half the grapes. The style Tweaks over the years have sought to reinforce house style and longevity. Marginally earlier picking ‘enhances clarity and purity of varietal fruit spectrum,’ according to Lovett, with the added benefit of reduced alcohol levels. Since 2005, Art Series Chardonnay has been exclusively bottled under screwcap, while from 2006, malolactic fermentation was blocked. A touch of natural ferment has crept into some recent vintages, with its textural, savoury influence being most evident in the 2013. Lovett emphasises that, ‘we are searching for the clearest and purest expression of fruit and site, not necessarily chasing secondary characters.’ All of which reinforces Leeuwin Estate’s ‘treat ‘em like eggs’ motto relating to the Art Series’ precious grapes. Leeuwin Estate factbox: [breakout] Founded 1973 Location Wallcliffe, Margaret River, Western Australia Hectares under vine 155ha, of which 55ha is planted to Chardonnay The Art Series is Leeuwin Estate's flagship range, with different labels commissioned from top Australian artists every vintage. [/breakout] Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay back to 1987: [/subscriber-content] [wine-collection] You might also like: Western Australian Chardonnay panel tasting results Decanter buyer’s guide: Australian Chardonnay Best Burgundy premier cru wines from 2017

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Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay: Bucking trends

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