Michaela Morris: My top wines of 2023

A demure yet confident beauty, the 1982 Lafite is in its prime and will delight anyone privy to an audience. Scents of tobacco, sandalwood and spice box waft with increasing intensity as this sits in the glass, then it floats across the palate leaving a persistent trail of stony minerals: flint and graphite along with preserved cherries are laced with sweet, smoky incense, and radiant acidity gives a perception of weightlessness while shedding light on the wine’s depths. So effortlessly and elegantly framed, and as exquisitely perfect as this is now, there is nothing to suggest it will fade any time soon.

Produced since 1974 but only in select years, Granbussia takes the Romirasco vineyard as its backbone and is co-fermented with equal portions (15% each) of Cicala and Colonnello – all vineyards within the Bussia MGA. Poignantly redolent of the Langhe in autumn, this opens with heady scents of the truffle hunt – not just the fungi itself but the moist earth it was extracted from and the oak and hazelnut trees among which it grows. There are also balsamic sage hints, and a suggestion of rust and iron on the palate. It is mighty and formidable with an unrelenting grip, yet those tannins are regal, sculpting dense layers of dark, brooding fruit. Mouth-cleansing acidity makes this soar, but If you do drink now, uncork it well ahead of time and give it a long, long time to unfurl in the glass.

<p>The Riserva release that marks the centenary (1888-1988) of Biondi-Santi was appropriately born of an exceptional growing season: a very rainy spring; warm, dry summer; and cool, dry harvest. Viticulture and winemaking director Federico Radi – who was still in short trousers when this was made – was full of superlatives for this wine, whose remarkable youthfulness, even at 37 years old, will see it mature for another decade with grace. Cool, flinty acidity, melting tannins and amazing length and drinkability in its bergamot, redcurrant, tobacco and fresh balsamic flavours. Aged in Slavonian oak casks for 36 months. <strong>RADI'S RECAP:</strong> Pure elegance.</p>

A former medieval Cistercian convent, San Giusto a Rentennano has been in the Martini di Cigala family since 1914. Today it is run by siblings Elisabetta, Francesco and Luca, with the guidance of consultant Attilio Pagli since 1999. The 31ha of vineyards sit at an average of 270m in the warm and luminous southern reaches of Gaiole. The estate has been producing a Riserva since 1975 and continues to opt out of the Gran Selezione category. Michaela Morris: Very meaty and minty, with some tobacco notes, too, and dry, dusty tannins. Wears its heart on its sleeve. Drink now. Sara Bachiorri: Balsamic aromas with porcini, musk and wet bark. A fully evolved palate of coffee and dried red berries, with a silky texture and a long finish. Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW: Dried cherries, plums and mushrooms on the nose, with hints of iodine and earth. Smooth tannins and good persistence.

Planted in 1997, La Lucère is encircled by forest on three sides. The breezy, east-facing site is relatively cool and always the estate’s last to be harvested. Aged in lightly toasted barriques and tonneaux, 20% new, the 2018 is the most elegantly sculpted and effortlessly balanced wine I have tasted from the estate. It opens with attractive scents of cinnamon, violet and rosemary, and boasts impressive concentration of woodland berry flavours but isn’t heavy. Integrated acidity provides proper support, and the tannins are long and fine, giving texture and shape. The best is still yet to come.

Visiting Il Palazzino’s rustic, cluttered tasting room is like walking back in time. As for the wines, they are non-conformist and a bit edgy, but full of soul – above all, the Grosso Sanese bottling. This 100% Sangiovese began life as a Vino da Tavola in the 1980s before joining the ranks of the DOCG in 1996, and finally became a Gran Selezione with the 2015 vintage. The current release, 2016, features a bouquet of leather, incense, mint tea and wild game; decidedly tertiary but by no means tired. The palate is equally savoury and earthy, as forest undergrowth and bitter roots permeate dark black currants. Fully charged with waves of firm tannins, this demands a rare steak.

Aromatically and texturally extraordinary, Phenomena is one of the vintage’s great triumphs. Gorgeous scents of pressed rose, orange peel and Mediterranean shrub are penetrating and inviting. Round and full, the palate exhibits the warmth of the year without violating its carefully drawn boundaries. Powdery tannins caress the palate, wrapping around spice-laced, fleshy persimmon. As tempting as it is now, there is structure and stuffing for ageing. Phenomena's 2017 label commemorates the colourful Geminid meteor shower of December 2017.

‘Sun and stone’ is Nebbiolo blended with 5% of the local Ner d’Ala variety, from approximately half a hectare of vines on Carema’s terraced slopes. It sees about 30% stem inclusion, a long maceration of 40 days and ageing in used barriques. Reverberating with its mountain origins, it exudes alpine bitters, green herbs and liquorice root. The palate seems delicate, almost fleeting at first, then builds with fine-boned tannins, stony minerals and penetrating flavours of redcurrant and blood orange. As bracing as the cold mountain air.