darenberg-wines.jpg
d'Areberg wines have attracted a strong following in Australia and beyond...
(Image credit: d'Arenberg)

Tina Gellie reports on a catch-up with one of Australian wine's true characters, Chester Osborn, and tastes through some of the latest releases from his highly regarded d'Arenberg winery in McLaren Vale - plus some interesting older wines from the cellar.

Chester Osborn, chief winemaker of renowned South Australian winery d’Arenberg, was in London recently to show off some current-releases, surprises from the cellar and wines that haven’t even made it to UK shores yet.


Scroll down to read Tina’s tasting notes


Osborn started his career in the wine industry at age seven, ‘earning 10 cents an hour’ working for his father D’Arry.‘I grew up with wine,’ he said, ‘but I didn’t really like it until I was about 20; I found most of it too harsh and strong.

Still, that didn’t stop me from drinking it, or nicking it from the winery to share with the local kids!’He became the first trained winemaker in his family in four generations when he graduated from Adelaide’s famous Roseworthy College.

He made his first wines for d’Arenberg with the 1984 vintage.

Within the trade, and for any wine lover who has met him, Osborn is known for a certain sense of flamboyance. A suitcase of ‘props’ often accompanies him on overseas trips to help him explain some of the more imaginative labels for his wines.

Chester Osborn, d'arenberg, sfwe15, sexist wine name

Chester Osborn of d’Arenberg with a puppet of ex-Australian prime minister Julia Gillard at the Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter in 2015.
(Image credit: Chris Mercer / Decanter)

Yet, behind the crazy shirts and even crazier names for his ever-increasing portfolio, Osborn’s aim is refreshingly simple. ‘I make fragrant, terroir-driven wines with minerality, length and complexity. It’s Europe meets Australia,’ he said.

Osborn has also been involved in extensive work to map soil types across McLaren Vale.

Most recently, he has also overseen the opening of a Rubik’s Cube-style visitor centre that sits at the heart of the estate.

The A$15 million ‘d’Arenberg Cube’ won a Good Design Award in Australia earlier this year and was reported to be welcoming 1,000 visitors daily in its first month after opening in December 2017.

South Australia 2018 harvest

The d’Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale.
(Image credit: Sylvia Wu / Decanter)

Osborne has made little secret of his desire for the Cube to house one of Australia’s best restaurants.

Head chef Brendan Wessels and his wife, Lindsay Dürr, both from South Africa, have been tasked with making this a reality. Their D’Arenberg Cube restaurant recently featured on Masterchef Australia.

Extra reporting on d’Arenberg Cube by Chris Mercer.


Tasting notes on latest d’Arenberg releases and other estate wines to look out for:

Click on the wines to see the full tasting note.

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d'Arenberg, Pollyanna Polly Sparkling, South Australia, Australia

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Locked score

Bottled unfined and unfiltered, this shows delicate nutty toastiness under a long, fruit-forward and creamy palate of apple, peach, lemon zest alongside stony minerals. These...

South AustraliaAustralia

d'Arenberg

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d'Arenberg, Money Spider Roussanne, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2017

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91

Juicy, textural cantaloupe, papaya and apricot fruit on the nose and palate with vibrant, lingering lime acidity. Perfect match for sea bass ceviche with mango salsa. The Roussanne grapes see light skin contact and only free-run juice is used, with no oak or malolactic fermentation to preserve the fruit purity. Winemaker Chester Osborn describes it as 'Hunter Valley Semillon with more flavour' and recommends cellaring it up to a decade. The first vintage from South Australia's first Roussanne vines was in 2000, and the small 1.5 tonne crop of grapes had several hundred money spiders on them. Osborn was told they were a good luck charm and not to kill them by making the wine, but he did. Was it a coincidence that the wine was ruined by accidental over acidification? In 2001 the spiders had moved out of the vineyard and Osborn named the new wine after them.

2017

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergMcLaren Vale

d'Arenberg, Lucky Lizard Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2015

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The grapes for this come from the same cool-climate, high-altitude Adelaide Hills vineyard as the Chardonnay that goes into the sparkling Polly. Fermented and aged...

2015

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergAdelaide Hills

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d'Arenberg, Feral Fox Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2015

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Earthy, mulchy savoury hints over raspberry and red cherry fruit and a dusting of baking spices, enlivened by bright acidity. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. This...

2015

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergAdelaide Hills

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d'Arenberg, Derelict Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2013

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Beautiful tarry, savoury earthiness in this wine shows real sense of place. It spends 12 months in old French and American oak barriques which lends...

2013

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergMcLaren Vale

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d'Arenberg, Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2014

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Inviting aromas of spicy plum and bright red fruit lead to a peaty, earthy palate with much darker bramble and chocolate notes. Sooty, irony minerality...

2014

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergMcLaren Vale

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d'Arenberg, Ironstone Pressings, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2008

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Leathery, savoury and slightly musty notes of stewed dark fruit, aromatic spices and marked mulched earth characters. And you can detect the iron-like mineral flavours...

2008

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergMcLaren Vale

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d'Arenberg, Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2014

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This opens with lifted aromas of primary purple berry fruit, vanilla spice and floral notes, leading to a restrained and structured palate of fresh dark...

2014

South AustraliaAustralia

d'ArenbergMcLaren Vale

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d'Arenberg, Noble Wrinkled Riesling, South Australia, Australia, 2016

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Unctuous yet balanced by a streak of limey acidity, it shows exotic juicy mango and melon flavours with hints of golden syrup. Winemaker Chester Osborn...

2016

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d'Arenberg

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Tina Gellie
Content Director

Tina Gellie has worked for Decanter since 2008 across a number of editorial roles and is currently the brand's Content Director. An awarded wine writer and editor, she won several scholarships on the way to getting her WSET Diploma, and is a freeman of The Worshipful Company of Distillers. She has worked in wine publishing since 2003, including as Deputy Editor and Acting Editor of Wine International. Before her wine career she was a newspaper journalist for broadsheets in London and Australia.