Raúl Pérez: Latest releases tasted and rated

In a fascinating 2019 Decanter interview written by Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Raúl Pérez was described as one of the world’s greatest winemakers, a supremely gifted innovator and, in winemaking terms at least, an important influencer. So my expectations were high when invited for a tasting and lunch with the great man. I was not to be disappointed.

See tasting notes and scores for 12 latest wines from Raúl Pérez

Short and somewhat unkempt, Pérez is a man of huge charisma and conviction. His long beard and forthright gaze lend something of the Old Testament prophet to his demeanour – an evangelist maybe; and his lifestyle is appropriately peripatetic.

Over a fantastically chaotic lunch I tasted the fruits of some of his joint venture projects. These include, nearest to home in Galicia, Rodrigo Méndez Ricardo. While further afield, Pérez has worked with the likes of Dirk Niepoort in the Douro, Maxime Graillot in Crozes Hermitage and Eben Sadie in South Africa.

‘The world is my vineyard,’ says Pérez somewhat enigmatically. ‘Each and every challenge is different and yet the fundamental principles are the same. Listen to nature and listen to your fellow winemaker, and the terroir will speak for itself.’ No wonder he is in such great demand around the world.

Signature style

What do all of his varied wines have in common? For me there is a tension, an edginess and a proximity to the soil… to nature. Sometimes this approach flirts perilously with what might technically be termed faults. There was discernible volatility on a couple of wines, then hints of Brettanomyces on others. It didn’t seem to matter. It’s part of the deal with Pérez; authenticity is all.

How has his philosophy developed over the last few years? He shrugs and mentions two key things. Firstly, the further he travels, the more he values the indigenous grape variety Mencía, which he compares to Syrah in youth and, somewhat surprisingly, to Nebbiolo after five to 10 years. Yes, five to 10 years; these Mencía-based wines are definitely built to last.

He is equally fulsome in praise for the local white grapes, Albariño (which does work with oak, he reassures me) and, most significantly, Godello. ‘The full potential of both Mencía and Godello has not been realised,’ maintains Pérez, specifying that it is his intention to do just that. An exciting prospect – and work is already underway.

The second key factor for Pérez is the juxtaposition of later harvests and longer macerations, some taking up to three months. Let the must do the work, he says. The quality of the soils will preserve the malic acidity and the maceration will do the rest in terms of early structural evolution.

Then the gentle and gradual polymerization of the tannins, which is achieved increasingly by the use of large fuder rather than barricas. It is key not to lose your nerve at any stage of the process. Patience is key.

‘I make wines to drink, not to taste,’ says Pérez. ‘I seek tranquillity, not technology in my wines,’ he adds, citing the probably relatively modest technical aptitude of those who made Riscal 47 or Ygay 64… He certainly has a point.

Later harvests, longer macerations, the primacy of Mencía and the increased use of larger maturation vessels. These are the four central tenets of the evangelist’s philosophy. ‘I do not like fruity wines,’ says Pérez – and so it proves. Witness the use of ‘flor’ yeast – more normally associated with Sherry production – and the distaste for all but the most modest use of sulphites.

Then there’s a canon of denial: the complete avoidance of cultured yeasts, chaptalisation, acidification, fining, filtration and so on. All of these betray a reluctance to intervene, a refusal to embellish in any sense. Denial is a key part of an evangelist’s armory as he focuses on a simpler message.

Nearly 100 different labels bear the signature of Pérez now. They are both challenging and infinitely rewarding.

Simon Field MW tastes the latest wines from Raúl Pérez

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