Red Graves 2016: panel tasting results
It’s a good time to stock up – our judges enjoyed plenty of high-scoring wines showing fleshy fruit and depth yet structure and freshness, too.
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Andy Howard MW, Robert Mathias and Tim Triptree MW tasted 65 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 42 Highly recommended.
Red Graves 2016 panel tasting
65 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 6
Highly recommended 42
Recommended 17
Commended 0
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Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their Pessac-Léognan and Graves AP red wines, from the 2016 vintage only.
Over in Bordeaux, the 2016 vintage is acknowledged as one of the finest of the century – so far!
This added extra interest to an exciting tasting of red wines from Graves and Pessac-Léognan, already notable for being the last ever Decanter panel tasting to be held in its former Canary Wharf office, before the company’s move to offices in Paddington, west London.
Scroll down for the top scoring red Graves 2016 tasting notes and scores
The judges were highly impressed with 2016’s winning combination of succulent, ripe fruit interwoven with fine tannins and an enduring freshness on the finish.
Out of 65 wines tasted, six were awarded scores of 95 points (and above), with almost one third of the wines tasted scoring 93pts or more.
Graves and Pessac-Léognan are located southwest of Bordeaux on the Left Bank of the river Garonne. ‘Graves’ refers to the gravel deposits which characterise much of the region’s soils. Although larger in area than the Médoc, Graves produces about 50% of the volume of wine and is, with the exception of a couple of top estates, less revered.
The wines of the Graves can be beautifully perfumed and often have an earthy, mineral character which distinguishes them from the more blackcurrant and lead-pencil style of many Haut-Médoc wines.
Graves was first granted appellation status in 1953, with Pessac-Léognan separated out from it as an appellation and confirmed in 1987. This tasting did not feature Châteaux Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Les Carmes Haut-Brion or Smith Haut Lafitte, but included several of the Pessac-Léognan cru classé estates. These did live up to their higher AP status, with six out of the seven wines present scoring 93pts and above, and three rated Outstanding – Pape Clément, Carbonnieux and Latour-Martillac.
Tim Triptree MW was impressed, stating that ‘overall quality was high and confirmed the outstanding quality of the 2016 vintage’.
Triptree found ‘the best examples were harmonious and powerful, rich – wines with depth of black fruit flavours, yet balanced with freshness and elegance, and silky ripe tannin’. Robert Mathias, Bordeaux buyer for Bibendum Wine, agreed, commenting: ‘Almost all wines had a freshness and acidity which can often be lacking with wines that are fleshy on the palate.’
See all 65 Red Graves 2016 tasted
The panel noted the range of grape varieties used within the blends. Although Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon dominate, judicious use of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot was appreciated. Triptree observed: ‘Blending grape varieties is important, with many of the top-scoring wines having a decent amount of Cabernet Sauvignon which added freshness, as well as well-judged additions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.’
Mathias also felt ‘the wines had good concentration of fruit, the best being very detailed on the palate with a lot of power and energy behind them’. He was intrigued by the number of wines incorporating a higher proportion of one grape in particular: ‘What was interesting was the growing use, and successful integration, of Petit Verdot’. And although a couple of wines were a little tannic as a result, this ‘added an extra dimension’.
The quality of 2016 Graves and Pessac Léognan wines is undoubtedly high, while the relative value they present is likely to be more attractive than for many leading Haut-Médoc or St-Emilion wines.
Combined with the distinctive Graves character, and excellent ageing potential, these 2016s are classic Bordeaux wines, and well worth stocking up on.
Red Graves 2016 panel tasting: top-scoring wines
The judges
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing, and has a house in southwest France
Robert Mathias is a wine buyer for London-based Bibendum Group, responsible for sourcing wines from France as well as fine wine purchasing. He has been a DWWA judge since 2019, tasting across a range of regional categories
Tim Triptree MW is the international director of wine and spirits at Christie’s, responsible for the planning and execution of Christie’s wine and spirits auctions internationally. A Master of Wine since 2018, at DWWA 2021 he was a judge on the Rhône and Bordeaux panels
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Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

The 60ha of vineyards are situated on an ancient alluvial terrace topped by a thin layer of more recent Garonne gravel. The winery’s 28 wooden...
2016
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Château Pape ClémentPessac-Léognan
Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

After falling into decline in the 1950s, Château Brown was revived after it was bought by businessman Bernard Barthe in 1994, to be taken over...
2016
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Château BrownPessac-Léognan
Château Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

This 20ha estate has been owned since 1994 by Florence and Daniel Cathiard, who also own Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Today, its 15ha for reds...
2016
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Château CantelysPessac-Léognan
Château Carbonnieux, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Château Carbonnieux has returned to traditional working of the soils and is trialling organic farming methods. The property consists of 119 plots with a range...
2016
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Château CarbonnieuxPessac-Léognan
Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

The estate takes its name from the remnant of a 12th-century fort in the main courtyard. Grapes for the red wines are rigorously sorted before...
2016
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Château Latour-MartillacPessac-Léognan
Château Léognan, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Château Léognan’s 6ha of vines were first planted on a vein of gravel and sand in the early 20th century and, prior to its purchase...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château LéognanPessac-Léognan
Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Multi-layered complex aromas of roses, violets, dark plums, toasty notes, cedary wood and hints of savoury notes. Quite expansive fruit character on the palate with...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Clos MarsalettePessac-Léognan
Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Complex nose of cigar box, crushed stones, cedary wood and fleshy dark fruits. Very smooth on the palate, rich and fleshy with a lovely tannic...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château La LouvièrePessac-Léognan
Château de France, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Restrained aromatics with subtle black cherry and cassis notes intermingled with pencil lead, tobacco and cedar and cigar box. Powerful on the palate with silky...
2016
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Château de FrancePessac-Léognan
Château Le Thil, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

A rather opulent nose, with fresh and dried black cherry, raspberry, dark chocolate, liquorice and cigar box notes. Very fine in the mouth with silky...
2016
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Château Le ThilPessac-Léognan
Château Picque Caillou, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Vibrant aromas of cassis, kirsch, wood shaving and savoury spices. Elegant on the palate, vibrant mouthwatering acidity supporting its concentrated luscious fruit character. Long, complex...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Picque CaillouPessac-Léognan
Domaine de Grandmaison, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Complex aromatics with black and red cherry, plum and cassis notes intermingled with hints of spice and cedar from the well-integrated use of oak. Full-bodied...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Domaine de GrandmaisonPessac-Léognan
Château Lamothe-Bouscaut, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Fresh dark fruits. cherry and blackcurrant with some herbal notes on the nose. Very precise, delineated and fine in texture. Lovely tannins, finely layered, and...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Lamothe-BouscautPessac-Léognan
Château Roche-Lalande, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Serious nose of wet stones, cocoa, red brick, ripe black cherries and plums. Firm structure of fine-grained tannins, with a crunchy acidity and long earthy...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Roche-LalandePessac-Léognan
Château Luchey-Halde, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Leafy notes on the nose under tobacco, dried meat, ripe plums and black cherry aromas. Fresh, red fruit character on the palate with good concentration...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Luchey-HaldePessac-Léognan
Château Olivier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Warm nose showing fine details of tapenade, smoked wood, roasted coffee and blackberries. Fleshy and weighty on the palate, opulent yet balanced by a vibrant...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château OlivierPessac-Léognan
Château Bouscaut, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Toasty nose showing cigar box, Asian spices and plush dark berry aromas with nuances of leather and mocha. Full-bodied and opulent, with a velvety texture....
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château BouscautPessac-Léognan
Château Pape Clément, Clémentin de Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Very intriguing nose. Earth, iron, violets, leather and nuances of cinnamon and tobacco leaves. Soft, plush texture with lovely black cherry character. Fine grained tannins...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Pape ClémentPessac-Léognan
Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Refined, elegant, brilliant. Spring rain and a dry, sunny summer and autumn meant perfectly ripe grapes, a growing season CEO Véronique Sanders dubbed Le Bonheur...
2016
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Château Haut-BaillyPessac-Léognan
Château de Beau-Site, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Attractive scents of sweet oak spice, ripe red bramble fruit, vanilla and fragrant violet nuances. Mouth filling with freshness and a nice concentration. Rounded, with...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château de Beau-SiteGraves
Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Fresh aromas of peppery black fruits, pure cassis and spicy notes with roasted coffee undertones. Earthy on the palate, with a mineral edge. Complex and...
2016
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Château de RouillacPessac-Léognan
Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Evolved aromatics, from tobacco and cedar to nuances of leather and spice with hints of ripe black cherry and blackberry notes. Harmonious, with refreshing acidity...
2016
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Château Couhins-LurtonPessac-Léognan
Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Aromatic nose of violets, as well as vanilla and blue fruits, and hints of cocoa nibs and roasted coffee. Finely-textured, harmonious with purity of fruit...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Malartic-LagravièrePessac-Léognan
Château Brondelle, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Smoky nose with some warm gravel and sweet spice under toasty notes of oak and cassis overtones. Lovely purity with a classical texture on the...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château BrondelleGraves
Grand Enclos du Château de Cérons, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Savoury nose showing cassis, plum and black cherry with mineral earthy notes. Generous black fruit flavours on the palate with firm structured tannins and a...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Grand Enclos du Château de CéronsGraves
Château Couhins, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Black chocolate on the nose with mocha showing some opulence. Intense black fruit with a touch of cocoa nibs. Fine-grained texture on the palate, with...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château CouhinsPessac-Léognan
Château Jouvente, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Dried mushroom and dried meat with light balsamic character and oriental spices nuances. Firm tannins on the palate with a nice balance.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château JouventeGraves
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, Les Demoiselles de Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Charcoal and cigar box with polished red cherry fruit and nuances of mocha and floral notes. Elegant wine with fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Larrivet Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Séguin, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Cigar box and cedar with some light notes of leather and game. Elegant black fruits with freshness and some dried meat on the palate. Ripe,...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château SéguinPessac-Léognan
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Le Petit Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Restrained scents of subtle black cherry, pencil lead, violets and toasted wood. Very attractive wine. Concentration yet remains elegant despite the weight.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Château Ferran, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Tobacco and coffee on the nose with ripe bramble fruit. Elegant on the palate with good freshness and energy. Quite a long finish.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château FerranPessac-Léognan
Château Villa Bel-Air, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Ambitious nose with forward aromas of chocolate and vanilla and leafy nuances. Ripe and fleshy black fruits, with some opulence on the palate and a...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Villa Bel-AirGraves
Château Lafont Menaut, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Dark fruits, brooding character but there is plenty of freshness here. Some licorice and anise notes, with ripe firm tannins.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Lafont MenautPessac-Léognan
Château Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Toasted wood, black pepper, coffee aromas and ripe black fruits. The palate is generous with fleshy black fruits with some weight.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-BergeyPessac-Léognan
Château de Cérons, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Fleshy black fruits on the nose with some coffee aromas. Medium body with pleasant plum and black fruits on the palate. Harmonious.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château de CéronsGraves
Château La Garde, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

An inviting nose of berry fruit, floral fragrance and soft cedar tones. Crushed velvet textured tannins support a wide mouthfeel full of fresh and juicy...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château La GardePessac-Léognan
Château Lafargue, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Warm stones, dried tobacco and some aromas of clove. Elegant example with smooth tannins, dark berry and cherry fruit character and lively acidity.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château LafarguePessac-Léognan
Château des Fougères, Clos Montesquieu, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Appealing nose. Plenty of pure, dark berry fruit. Soft and generous on the palate with a fresh acidity and long finish.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château des FougèresGraves
Château Magneau, Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Pronounced aromatics with black cherry and cassis notes intermingled with mocha, toast and cedar from the new oak. Full-bodied and mouth-filling.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château MagneauGraves
Château Le Bruilleau, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Rich and generous nose with cocoa nibs, mocha and ripe black fruits. Well-defined palate, clean and focused, with poise.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Le BruilleauPessac-Léognan
Château Pont St-Martin, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Notes of leather and dried meat with some wood smoke. Ripe bramble fruits with fine texture and quite classical feel in the mouth.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Pont St-MartinPessac-Léognan

Andy Howard MW became a Master of Wine in 2011 and runs his own consultancy business, Vinetrades Ltd, which focuses on education, judging, investment and sourcing.
He previously worked for Marks & Spencer as a buyer for over 30 years and was responsible as wine buyer for Burgundy, Bordeaux, Loire, Champagne, Italy, North and South America, South Africa, England, Port and Sherry.
Although his key areas of expertise are Burgundy and Italy, he also has great respect for the wines of South America and South Africa, as well as a keen interest in the wines from South West France
He is a Decanter contributing editor and is the DWWA Regional Chair for Central Italy. Andy also writes a regular column on the UK wine retail trade for JancisRobinson.com.