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Steven Spurrier’s wines of the month

Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards

From the cellar

Château Latour 2009

After three decades of being held at Adnams in Suffolk, the annual Southwold tastings have now moved to Farr Vintners’ offices in London. The Bordeaux châteaux supply two bottles. The spoilage rate being very low, the single bottles (of red and sweet wines only) that remain are kept to be tasted in their tenth year. The wines are served blind, and the same panel of tasters are present, knowing the wines in each flight but not the order. The opulent 2009 vintage carried itself well, the preference being for the Left Bank over Right, Cabernet Sauvignon’s structure responding magnificently with ripe depth of fruit. Sauternes showed superbly, Guiraud ahead of Rayne Vigneau and de Fargues. Outside the first growths, the first seven reds in the overall marking were Châteaux Canon, St-Emilion; Le Gay, Pomerol; Pape Clément, Pessac- Léognan; d’Issan, Margaux; Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien; Pichon Baron, Pauillac; and Montrose, St-Estèphe. Cheval Blanc was the top Right Bank first growth, but was outclassed by Château Latour (average mark 19.24/20pts). I scored it 19, tying with Château Margaux, and there were several perfect 20s. My simple note for Latour: ‘Dense young colour, superb floral nose, really beautiful expression of Cabernet with the 2009 richness. A wine of very great class. Drink 2025-2050.’

The Spurrier Selection

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