I’m often asked what my favourite Champagne is. These days I tend to try and answer a subtly different one: what’s my favourite style of Champagne?
The answer tends to be something along the lines of: long-aged blanc de blancs, preferably in magnum. Wines with austere DNA, chipped away at and mellowed by time. Wines that take a bit of work to prise apart, but reward you for doing so. Champagne has many natural advantages over other sparkling wines in its ability to ripen grapes to the rare specifications required for extended ageing, but seldom are they felt as keenly as in those moments.
It was a surprise, then, when hunting back through a year’s worth of tasting notes, scores, Instagram posts and Decanter reviews, to find I didn’t recognise my own answer. Where were these monumental blanc de blancs?
Scroll down to see notes and scores for Tom Hewson’s Champagne highlights of 2023
{"content":"PHA+VGhlIHdpbmVzIHRoYXQgY2FtZSBvdXQgb24gdG9wIHdlcmUgbW9udW1lbnRzLCB5ZXMsIGJ1dCBvZnRlbiB0byA8c3Ryb25nPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS93aW5lL2dyYXBlLXZhcmlldGllcy9waW5vdC1ub2lyLyIgdGFyZ2V0PSJfYmxhbmsiIHJlbD0ibm9vcGVuZXIgbm9yZWZlcnJlciI+UGlub3QgTm9pcjwvYT48L3N0cm9uZz4gKGFuZCA8c3Ryb25nPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS93aW5lL2dyYXBlLXZhcmlldGllcy9waW5vdC1tZXVuaWVyLyIgdGFyZ2V0PSJfYmxhbmsiIHJlbD0ibm9vcGVuZXIgbm9yZWZlcnJlciI+TWV1bmllcjwvYT48L3N0cm9uZz4pLCByZWd1bGFybHkgd2l0aCA8c3Ryb25nPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS9sZWFybi9vYWstYmFycmVscy0zMzU5OTAvIiB0YXJnZXQ9Il9ibGFuayIgcmVsPSJub29wZW5lciBub3JlZmVycmVyIj5vYWs8L2E+IDwvc3Ryb25nPmluIHRoZSBwaWN0dXJlIGFuZCwgaW4gYSBmZXcgY2FzZXMsIHRoZSBjb25jZW50cmF0ZWQgY2hhcmFjdGVyIG9mIHNpbmdsZS12aW5leWFyZCBwbG90cy4gV2FzIHRoaXMgcmVhbGx5IG15IGxpc3Q\/PC9wPgo8cD5Db3ZlcmluZyBDaGFtcGFnbmUgZm9yIDxlbT5EZWNhbnRlcjwvZW0+LCB0aG91Z2gsIGlzIGEgY29uc3RhbnQgcmVhc29uIHRvIGdvIG91dCBhbmQgYWN0aXZlbHkgbG9vayBmb3Igc3VycHJpc2VzLiBXaXRoIHRoYXQgaW4gbWluZCwgdGhlc2UgYXJlIG5vdCBzaW1wbHkgbXkgaGlnaGVzdC1zY29yaW5nIHdpbmVzIG9mIHRoZSB5ZWFyLCBidXQgd2luZXMgdGhhdCBzZXQgdGhlbXNlbHZlcyBkaWZmaWN1bHQgY2hhbGxlbmdlcywgYW5kIG1lZXQgdGhlbSDigJMgd2l0aCBtb3JlIGxlZnQgaW4gdGhlIHRhbmsuIFRoZXkgYXJlIGJvdGggdGhlIG9uZXMgSSB3YW50IHRvIHRhbGsgYWJvdXQgYW5kIHRoZSBvbmVzIHRoYXQgaGF2ZSBzb21ldGhpbmcgdG8gc2F5IGZvciB0aGVtc2VsdmVzLjwvcD4KPHA+PGRpdiBjbGFzcz0iYWQtY29udGFpbmVyIGFkLWNvbnRhaW5lci0tbW9iaWxlIj48ZGl2IGlkPSJwb3N0LWlubGluZS0yIiBjbGFzcz0iaXBjLWFkdmVydCI+PC9kaXY+PC9kaXY+PC9wPgo8cD5BIHByb2R1Y2VyIGlzIG9ubHkgYXMgZ29vZCBhcyBpdHMgZW50cnktbGV2ZWwgb2ZmZXJpbmcsIGFuZCB0aGUgZ3JlYXRlc3QgY2hhbGxlbmdlIGEgQ2hhbXBhZ25lIGNhbiBzZXQgaXRzZWxmIGlzIHRvIGV4Y2VsIHdpdGhvdXQgYXNraW5nIHRvbyBtdWNoIG9mIG91ciB3YWxsZXRzLiA8c3Ryb25nPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS9wcmVtaXVtL2xvdWlzLXJvZWRlcmVyLW1hc3RlcmNsYXNzLWRmd2UtbmV3LXlvcmstNTA3MjQ5LyIgdGFyZ2V0PSJfYmxhbmsiIHJlbD0ibm9vcGVuZXIgbm9yZWZlcnJlciI+TG91aXMgUm9lZGVyZXI8L2E+PC9zdHJvbmc+4oCZcyByZWxlbnRsZXNzIHdvcmsgaW4gaXRzIENvbGxlY3Rpb24gc2VyaWVzIHdhcyBtYXRjaGVkIGluIHF1YWxpdHkgYnkgb25seSBhIGZldyBvdGhlciB3aW5lcyBhdCB0aGlzIGxldmVsOiA8c3Ryb25nPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS93aW5lL3Byb2R1Y2VyLXByb2ZpbGVzL2dyb3dlci1jaGFtcGFnbmUtdmlsbWFydC1jaWUtMjcwNTc2LyIgdGFyZ2V0PSJfYmxhbmsiIHJlbD0ibm9vcGVuZXIgbm9yZWZlcnJlciI+VmlsbWFydCAmYW1wOyBDaWU8L2E+PC9zdHJvbmc+4oCZcyBicmlsbGlhbnQgR3JhbmQgQ2VsbGllciwgYmFzZWQgb24gdGhlIDIwMTkgdmludGFnZSwgd2FzIG9uZSBvZiB0aGVtIChhbmQgYSBmZXcgbW9yZSBjYW4gYmUgZm91bmQgaW4gbXkgcGllY2UgaW4gdGhlIDxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS9wcmVtaXVtL2EtZ3VpZGUtdG8tbm9uLXZpbnRhZ2UtY2hhbXBhZ25lLTUxNDkwNi8iPjxzdHJvbmc+Tm92ZW1iZXIgMjAyMyBtYWdhemluZeKAmXMgZm9jdXMgb24gbm9uLXZpbnRhZ2UgQ2hhbXBhZ25lPC9zdHJvbmc+KS48L2E+PC9wPgo8ZGl2IGlkPSJhdHRhY2htZW50XzI3MDMyMSIgc3R5bGU9IndpZHRoOiA2NDBweCIgY2xhc3M9IndwLWNhcHRpb24gYWxpZ25ub25lIj48aW1nIGZldGNocHJpb3JpdHk9ImhpZ2giIGRlY29kaW5nPSJhc3luYyIgYXJpYS1kZXNjcmliZWRieT0iY2FwdGlvbi1hdHRhY2htZW50LTI3MDMyMSIgY2xhc3M9Imxhenlsb2FkIGJsdXItdXAgc2l6ZS1sYXJnZSB3cC1pbWFnZS0yNzAzMjEiIGRhdGEtcHJvY2Vzc2VkIHNyYz0iaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZGVjYW50ZXIuY29tL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdGhlbWVzL3NpbWJhLXRoZW1lL2Fzc2V0cy9pbWFnZXMvcGxhY2Vob2xkZXIucG5nIiBkYXRhLXNyYz0iaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxNS8wOC9DaGFtcGFnbmUtVmlsbWFydC1DaWUtNjMweDQxNy5qcGciIGFsdD0iQ2hhbXBhZ25lIFZpbG1hcnQgJmFtcDsgQ2llIiB3aWR0aD0iNjMwIiBoZWlnaHQ9IjQxNyIgZGF0YS1zaXplcz0iYXV0byIgZGF0YS1zcmNzZXQ9Imh0dHBzOi8va2V5YXNzZXRzLnRpbWVpbmN1ay5uZXQvaW5zcGlyZXdwL2xpdmUvd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzL3NpdGVzLzM0LzIwMTUvMDgvQ2hhbXBhZ25lLVZpbG1hcnQtQ2llLTYzMHg0MTcuanBnIDYzMHcsIGh0dHBzOi8va2V5YXNzZXRzLnRpbWVpbmN1ay5uZXQvaW5zcGlyZXdwL2xpdmUvd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzL3NpdGVzLzM0LzIwMTUvMDgvQ2hhbXBhZ25lLVZpbG1hcnQtQ2llLTEzNXg4OS5qcGcgMTM1dywgaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxNS8wOC9DaGFtcGFnbmUtVmlsbWFydC1DaWUtMzAweDE5OC5qcGcgMzAwdywgaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxNS8wOC9DaGFtcGFnbmUtVmlsbWFydC1DaWUtMzIweDIxMi5qcGcgMzIwdywgaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxNS8wOC9DaGFtcGFnbmUtVmlsbWFydC1DaWUtNjIweDQxMC5qcGcgNjIwdywgaHR0cHM6Ly9rZXlhc3NldHMudGltZWluY3VrLm5ldC9pbnNwaXJld3AvbGl2ZS93cC1jb250ZW50L3VwbG9hZHMvc2l0ZXMvMzQvMjAxNS8wOC9DaGFtcGFnbmUtVmlsbWFydC1DaWUuanBnIDY1MHciIHNpemVzPSIobWF4LXdpZHRoOiA2MzBweCkgMTAwdncsIDYzMHB4IiAvPjxwIGlkPSJjYXB0aW9uLWF0dGFjaG1lbnQtMjcwMzIxIiBjbGFzcz0id3AtY2FwdGlvbi10ZXh0Ij5WaWxtYXJ0ICZhbXA7IENpZSYjODIxNztzIGJhcnJlbCByb29tLiBDcmVkaXQ6IENoYW1wYWduZSBWaWxtYXJ0ICZhbXA7IENpZTwvcD48L2Rpdj4KPHA+QW5vdGhlciBwdXp6bGUgaXMgdHVybmluZyBzaW5nbGUgcGxvdHMgaW50byByZXdhcmRpbmcsIGJhbGFuY2VkIENoYW1wYWduZXMgd2l0aG91dCB0aGUgYWlkIG9mIGJsZW5kaW5nLjwvcD4KPGRpdiBjbGFzcz0iYWQtY29udGFpbmVyIGFkLWNvbnRhaW5lci0tbW9iaWxlIj48ZGl2IGlkPSJwb3N0LWlubGluZS0zIiBjbGFzcz0iaXBjLWFkdmVydCI+PC9kaXY+PC9kaXY+CjxwPlBoaWxpcHBvbm5hdOKAmXMgaW1wb3NpbmcgTGUgTMOpb24gZnJvbSAyMDE0IHNob3djYXNlcyBhIGhpc3RvcmljIHZpbmV5YXJkIG9mIFBpbm90IE5vaXIgaW4gQcO\/IHRvIGJyaWxsaWFudCBlZmZlY3QuIENsb3MgZGVzIEdvaXNzZXMgaXMgYmV0dGVyIGtub3duLCBidXQgdGhpcyBpcyBhIHZpbnRhZ2Ugd2hlcmUgTGUgTMOpb24gaXMgZXF1YWxseSByZXdhcmRpbmcuIFRvcCB0ZXJyb2lyLXNwZWNpZmljIFBpbm90cyAoYm90aCBOb2lyIGFuZCBNZXVuaWVyKSBhbHNvIGZlYXR1cmUgaW4gdGhlIGxpc3QsIGZyb20gaW5kZXBlbmRlbnQgcHJvZHVjZXJzIFBpZXJyZSBQYWlsbGFyZCBhbmQgQmVub8OudCBEw6lodS48L3A+CjxwPkluY2x1ZGVkLCB0b28sIGlzIGEgcmVtYXJrYWJsZSB3aW5lIGZyb20gSGVucmkgR2lyYXVkLCBjYWxsZWQgQXJnb25uZSwgYm9ybmUgb2YgYSBsb25nLXJ1bm5pbmcgcHJvamVjdCBpbiB0aGUgQXJnb25uZSBmb3Jlc3QgdG8gdGVuZCBhbmQgc2VsZWN0IHNwZWNpZmljIG9hayB0cmVlcywgbWFudWZhY3R1cmUgYmFycmVscyBmcm9tIHRoZW0gYW5kIHB1dCB0aGVtIHRvIHVzZSB3aXRoIGZydWl0IGZyb20gdGhlIGhvdXNl4oCZcyBncmFuZCBjcnUgdmluZXlhcmRzIGluIEHDvy48L3A+CjxkaXYgY2xhc3M9ImFkLWNvbnRhaW5lciBhZC1jb250YWluZXItLW1vYmlsZSI+PGRpdiBpZD0icG9zdC1pbmxpbmUtNCIgY2xhc3M9ImlwYy1hZHZlcnQiPjwvZGl2PjwvZGl2Pgo8cD5Bcmdvbm5lIG1heSBiZSBhIENoYW1wYWduZSB0aGF0IGRpdmlkZXMgYSByb29tIHdpdGggaXRzIHNoZWVyIHBvdGVuY3kgYW5kIGJ1aWxkLCBidXQgYWZ0ZXIgYSBtZW1vcmFibGUgZGF5IGluIHRoZSBmb3Jlc3Qgd2l0aCBIZW5yaSBHaXJhdWTigJlzIGNlbGxhcm1hc3RlciBTw6liYXN0aWVuIGxlIEdvbHZldCAoYW5kIGF0IHRoZSBUb25uZWxsZXJpZSBkZSBDaGFtcGFnbmUsIHdoZXJlIHRoZSBiYXJyZWxzIGFyZSB0b2FzdGVkKSwgSSBjYW1lIGF3YXkgd2l0aCBtYW55IG9mIG15IHByZWNvbmNlcHRpb25zIGFib3V0IENoYW1wYWduZSBhbmQgbmV3IG9hayBjcnVtYmxpbmcgYXdheS48L3A+CjxkaXYgY2xhc3M9ImFkLWNvbnRhaW5lciBhZC1jb250YWluZXItLW1vYmlsZSI+PGRpdiBpZD0icG9zdC1pbmxpbmUtNSIgY2xhc3M9ImlwYy1hZHZlcnQiPjwvZGl2PjwvZGl2Pgo8ZGl2IGlkPSJhdHRhY2htZW50XzUyMDIxNyIgc3R5bGU9IndpZHRoOiA2MDhweCIgY2xhc3M9IndwLWNhcHRpb24gYWxpZ25ub25lIj48aW1nIGRlY29kaW5nPSJhc3luYyIgYXJpYS1kZXNjcmliZWRieT0iY2FwdGlvbi1hdHRhY2htZW50LTUyMDIxNyIgY2xhc3M9Imxhenlsb2FkIGJsdXItdXAgc2l6ZS1mdWxsIHdwLWltYWdlLTUyMDIxNyIgZGF0YS1wcm9jZXNzZWQgc3JjPSJodHRwczovL3d3dy5kZWNhbnRlci5jb20vd3AtY29udGVudC90aGVtZXMvc2ltYmEtdGhlbWUvYXNzZXRzL2ltYWdlcy9wbGFjZWhvbGRlci5wbmciIGRhdGEtc3JjPSJodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDIzLzEyL01vZXQuanBnIiBhbHQ9IiIgd2lkdGg9IjU5OCIgaGVpZ2h0PSI0MDAiIGRhdGEtc2l6ZXM9ImF1dG8iIGRhdGEtc3Jjc2V0PSJodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDIzLzEyL01vZXQuanBnIDU5OHcsIGh0dHBzOi8va2V5YXNzZXRzLnRpbWVpbmN1ay5uZXQvaW5zcGlyZXdwL2xpdmUvd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzL3NpdGVzLzM0LzIwMjMvMTIvTW9ldC0zMDB4MjAxLmpwZyAzMDB3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDIzLzEyL01vZXQtMTM1eDkwLmpwZyAxMzV3LCBodHRwczovL2tleWFzc2V0cy50aW1laW5jdWsubmV0L2luc3BpcmV3cC9saXZlL3dwLWNvbnRlbnQvdXBsb2Fkcy9zaXRlcy8zNC8yMDIzLzEyL01vZXQtMzIweDIxNC5qcGcgMzIwdyIgc2l6ZXM9IihtYXgtd2lkdGg6IDU5OHB4KSAxMDB2dywgNTk4cHgiIC8+PHAgaWQ9ImNhcHRpb24tYXR0YWNobWVudC01MjAyMTciIGNsYXNzPSJ3cC1jYXB0aW9uLXRleHQiPkNyZWRpdDogTW\/Dq3QgJmFtcDsgQ2hhbmRvbjwvcD48L2Rpdj4KPHA+TW\/Dq3QgJmFtcDsgQ2hhbmRvbuKAmXMgcmFyZXIgY3V2w6llcyBhcmUgb2Z0ZW4gb3Zlcmxvb2tlZCwgYnV0IHRoZSAyMDA2IEdyYW5kIFZpbnRhZ2UgQ29sbGVjdGlvbiwgYSBsYXRlLWRpc2dvcmdlZCByZWxlYXNlLCBpcyBhIHN0dW5uaW5nLCBzdmVsdGUgYW5kIG51YW5jZWQgdGFrZSBvbiB0aGlzIHNvbWV0aW1lcyBkdWxsIHllYXIuPC9wPgo8cD5UaGlzIHN1bW1lcuKAmXMgPGVtPkRlY2FudGVyPC9lbT4gPHN0cm9uZz48YSBocmVmPSJodHRwczovL3d3dy5kZWNhbnRlci5jb20vcHJlbWl1bS9jaGFtcGFnbmUtMjAxMy0xMC15ZWFycy1vbi01MTAyMzkvIiB0YXJnZXQ9Il9ibGFuayIgcmVsPSJub29wZW5lciBub3JlZmVycmVyIj5mZWF0dXJlIG9uIHRoZSBsYXRlLXJhbGx5aW5nIDIwMTMgdmludGFnZTwvYT48L3N0cm9uZz4gc2F3IENoYXJsZXMgSGVpZHNpZWNr4oCZcyBmaW5lc3QgdmludGFnZSByZWxlYXNlIG9mIHJlY2VudCB0aW1lcywgd2hpbGUgRG9tIFJ1aW5hcnQgMjAxMCBoZWxkIHRoZSBjb3JuZXIgZm9yIGJsYW5jIGRlIGJsYW5jcyB0aGlzIHllYXIsIGNvbWluZyBvdXQgYXMgYSBwZXJzb25hbCB0b3Atc2NvcmVyIGluIHRoZSA8c3Ryb25nPjxhIGhyZWY9Imh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmRlY2FudGVyLmNvbS9wcmVtaXVtL2JsYW5jLWRlLWJsYW5jcy1jaGFtcGFnbmUtcGFuZWwtdGFzdGluZy1yZXN1bHRzLTUxODEwOS8iIHRhcmdldD0iX2JsYW5rIiByZWw9Im5vb3BlbmVyIG5vcmVmZXJyZXIiPmJsYW5jIGRlIGJsYW5jcyBDaGFtcGFnbmUgcGFuZWwgdGFzdGluZzwvYT48L3N0cm9uZz4gaW4gdGhlIERlY2VtYmVyIGlzc3VlLjwvcD4KPGRpdiBjbGFzcz0iaW5qZWN0aW9uIj48L2Rpdj4KPHA+U29tZXRpbWVzLCBkcmlua2luZyB2ZXJ5LCB2ZXJ5IG9sZCBDaGFtcGFnbmUgaXMgbW9yZSBhYm91dCB0aGUgZXhwZXJpZW5jZSB0aGFuIHRoZSBmbGF2b3VyOyBIZW5yaW904oCZcyBtYWduaWZpY2VudGx5IHZpdmlkIGFuZCBmcmVzaCAxOTY0IE3DqW1vaXJlcyBsYXRlLWRpc2dvcmdlZCByZWxlYXNlLCB0YXN0ZWQgaW4gdGhlIENoYW1wYWduZSB2aWxsYWdlIG9mIFBpZXJyeSB0aGlzIHN1bW1lciwgdGhvdWdoLCB3YXMgb25lIG9mIHRob3NlIG1vbWVudHMgd2hlbiBDaGFtcGFnbmUgYXBwZWFycyB0byBmcmVlemUgdGltZS4gQW4gdW5mb3JnZXR0YWJsZSB0cmlidXRlIHRvIENoYW1wYWduZeKAmXMgYWJpbGl0eSB0byBsaXZlIGJ5IGl0cyBvd24gcnVsZXMuPC9wPgo8cD4K"}
See notes and scores for Tom Hewson’s best Champagnes of 2023
{}
{"wineId":"78136","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"60590","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"78137","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"72443","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"72444","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"73025","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"69186","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"78139","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"78138","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"75702","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{}
Related articles
