Valpolicella: panel tasting results
A wide range of prices and styles means there is much to be enjoyed in this complex category, which yielded a good proportion of high-scoring wines.
Michael Garner, Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW and Michaela Morris tasted 92 wines, with six Outstanding and 33 Highly Recommended.
Valpolicella panel tasting scores
92 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 6
Highly recommended 33
Recommended 52
Commended 1
Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release vintage reds from Valpolicella DOC and Valpolicella Superiore DOC
How encouraging to find ‘life beyond appassimento’! While nearly all Valpolicella DOC wine is produced from freshly picked grapes, much Valpolicella Superiore on the market these days includes at least a proportion of semi-dried fruit, blurring the stylistic lines that separate it from the other, richer-style Valpolicella denominations: Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto.
Scroll down for tasting notes & scores for the top-scoring Valpolicella wines
A good number of the higher-scoring wines from this panel tasting not only rely on freshly harvested grapes, but also include examples from the basic DOC category (such as the Valpolicella Classico 2020 from Montecariano). Two of the six Outstanding wines – Tommasi’s delicious Rafaèl 2020 and Flavio Prà’s elegant Corte Allodola, Flavs 2018 – are also, crucially, made from dedicated Valpolicella vineyards where the best of the crop is not creamed off for Amarone or Recioto: a recurring issue which frequently has a negative effect on the quality of the ‘simpler’ denominations.
Michaela Morris put the matter succinctly: ‘When so many regions around the world are struggling to keep ripeness and alcohol levels in check, Valpolicella’s strength is its ability to offer wines with elegance, lightness and modest alcohol. The region would do well to capitalise on this.’
Similarly, drinkers would do well to look beyond the deceptive simplicity of these wines to their sheer drinkability – seen at its best at this ‘simpler’ level. Youthful Valpolicella is such a persuasive and versatile food wine, the perfect match for pasta, pizza and lighter fare, and is hard to better when paired, for example, with pork-based dishes.
See all Valpolicella wines from the panel tasting
In a blind tasting, it’s easy for more subtle wines to be overlooked, especially among so many examples where appassimento has made a positive contribution. A lot depends on how long the fruit has been dried for, which clearly determines the degree of its influence.
A shorter period, such as the 15 days of Rubinelli Vajol’s Classico Superiore 2016, gently underscores the wine’s supple charm, while at about 60 days, as with Corte Canella’s Superiore 2016, you end up with something fleshier and more sumptuous, distinctly reminiscent of Amarone. The third option, a slightly later harvest, allows grapes to achieve a degree of sovramaturazione (‘surmaturité’ in French, or overripeness) and imparts a feeling of greater substance and depth of flavour. Buglioni’s 44 Verticale Classico Superiore 2019 is a good example.
The panel agreed on the overall charm and accessibility of the three most recent vintages (2020, 2019 and 2018), with 2019 showing particularly well. The 2017 wines seemed to be fully developed and indeed beginning to tire in a few instances. Both 2015 and 2016 were holding up well, while older vintages were also, perhaps a little surprisingly, still looking good. The oldest on show, Ca’ La Bionda’s CasalVegri Decennale Classico Superiore 2010 (from freshly picked grapes only), divided opinion dramatically, but nonetheless managed to retain remarkable freshness and vibrancy.
The classic, lighter style of Valpolicella can surprise with the longevity its overall balance and understated structure offers. More than 40% of the wines entered were rated Highly recommended or above: an exceptional achievement by any standards.
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW summed up the thoughts of the panel neatly: ‘I think this tasting proves that Corvina is capable of expressing terroir and can sit alongside some of the top wines in the country.’
The top scoring Valpolicellas:
The judges
Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines, author of Amarone and The Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Infinite Ideas), and a DWWA Regional Chair for northern Italy
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW is a wine consultant, writer, judge and WSET educator. She consults to restaurants and wineries, acts as an ambassador for wine trade bodies, and was Regional Chair for Veneto at DWWA 2021
Michaela Morris is a wine consultant, lecturer, writer, judge and a WSET educator. A Regional Chair at DWWA 2021, she consults to restaurants and wineries, as well as acting as an ambassador for wine trade bodies
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Buglioni, 44 Verticale, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2019
Alfredo Buglioni bought an old farmhouse in Valpolicella Classico in 1993, but only began producing wine from its 4ha of vineyards properly in 2000. Oenologist...
2019
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Ca'Botta, Alta, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, Italy, 2018
Ca’Botta’s first commercial harvest was in 2009 and since then it has become established as a producer of wines from the main appellations of Veneto....
2018
Ca'BottaValpolicella
Ca'Botta, Torcinato, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, 2015
Torcinato is sourced from vineyards between 380m-520m, and handpicked at low yields. The Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes are partially air-dried for about six weeks...
2015
Ca'BottaValpolicella
Corte Allodola, Flavs, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, 2018
Made from Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella with 10% of Croatina (Argentina’s Bonarda), aged for six months in oak barriques and one year in bottle before...
2018
Corte AllodolaValpolicella
Corte Canella, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Grape-growers Francesco Venturini and his wife Adriana founded their own winery, Corte Canella, in 2009 to showcase the character of the local wines. Their Valpolicella...
2016
Corte CanellaValpolicella
Tommasi, Rafaèl, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2020
This fourth-generation family estate founded in 1902 now owns 105ha in the Valpolicella Classico zone. The grapes for Rafaèl – Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara –...
2020
TommasiValpolicella
Brolo dei Giusti, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, 2013
Dried fruit notes refreshed by spicy-toned cherry menthol and a twist of black pepper and sage. Ripe and fragrant juicy fruit on the palate. Sophisticated...
2013
Brolo dei GiustiValpolicella
Tenuta Sant'Antonio, La Bandina, Valpolicella, Superiore, 2018
Mellowed herbs on the nose, with ripe red fruit aromas and a savoury edge. Earthy on the palate with a tangy element. Soft, showing a...
2018
Tenuta Sant'AntonioValpolicella
Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2019
Compote prune aromas with notes of figs and sweet spices. Round and full in the mouth, showing complexity and a chocolate-covered cherries finish. A lot...
2019
Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano BertaniValpolicella
Brolo dei Giusti, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, 2015
Mellowed appealing aromas of forest, dried herbs and intense cherry. Big, rich and dense, with a chewy mouthfeel and grainy tannins.
2015
Brolo dei GiustiValpolicella
Buglioni, Bu Re, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2019
Youthful nose of wild forest berries, toasted spices, tarragon and blackberries. Solid on the palate, with upfront tannins, somewhat truffly.
2019
BuglioniValpolicella
La Collina dei Ciliegi, Formiga, Valpolicella, Superiore, 2019
Attractive scents of cherry blossom, dried herbs and hints of spices. There is tension on the palate with a pleasant bitterness.
2019
La Collina dei CiliegiValpolicella
La Dama, Ca' Besi, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2018
Lots of spicy oak on the nose, red fruit aromas and grassy notes. Intriguing on the palate, with the acidity providing balance.
2018
La DamaValpolicella
Monte del Frà, Tenuta Lena di Mezzo, Valpolicella, Classico, 2020
Aromatic herbal nose, pure mint and sage, with spicy blackberry aromas. Juicy, with substance, yet crisp with a light sophisticated grip.
2020
Monte del FràValpolicella
Monte Zovo, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, Italy, 2020
Dried fruit nuances with touches of nutmeg and tobacco. Full and round on the palate, with peppery freshness and a lively acidity.
2020
Monte ZovoValpolicella
Montecariano, Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2020
Leafy nose with accents of pepper and thyme, slight menthol notes and violet hints. Fleshy and vibrant, quite tangy and lingering.
2020
MontecarianoValpolicella
Roccolo Grassi, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Earthy and peppery nose with very ripe red and black cherry nuances. Cedary on the palate, soft, with a crisp acidity.
2016
Roccolo GrassiValpolicella
Rubinelli Vajol, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2016
Festive nose of dried fruits, red plums, cherries, dried herbs and spices. Rich and rounded yet showing a somewhat light body.
2016
Rubinelli VajolValpolicella
Rubinelli Vajol, Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2020
Lifted nose of dried herbs with tart red fruits, floral notes and hints of bubblegum. Bright and focused, elegant and fresh.
2020
Rubinelli VajolValpolicella
Santa Sofia, Montegradella, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2017
Pruney nose with notes of jammy fruit, juicy raspberry and liquorice. Mouthfilling, full, round and soft, with a crisp acidity.
2017
Santa SofiaValpolicella
Sartori, Montegradella, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2018
Aromatic nose of lifted dried herbs, ripe red plums and raspberries. Round palate, ripe and juicy, vibrant with balanced tannins.
2018
SartoriValpolicella
Speri, Sant'Urbano, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2018
Vibrant nose of paprika, hedgerow berries, ripe red cherries, curry and saffron. Exotic, with a mellow and silky palate, polished.
2018
SperiValpolicella
Zeni, Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2019
Clean nose of raspberry and cranberry with hints of oaky spices. Bright and fresh, juicy on the palate with herbal notes.
2019
ZeniValpolicella
Allegrini, Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2020
Loads of ripe plums and cherries on the nose, with an intriguing hint of brushwood. Nice depth on the palate.
2020
AllegriniValpolicella
Buglioni, L'Imperfetto, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2019
Leafy nose with plummy notes and fragrant black pepper nuances. Iron notes on the palate, with a vibrant balanced acidity.
2019
BuglioniValpolicella
Ca' La Bionda, CasalVegri Decennale, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore 2010
Pruney nose with scents of spice cake, herbs and some vanilla. Vibrant, yet round and ripe on the palate.
2010
Ca' La BiondaValpolicella
Cantina Valpantena, Torre del Falasco, Valpolicella, Superiore 2019
Layered nose of peppery notes and hints of dried herbs over red fruits. Sweet and sour mouthfeel.
2019
Cantina ValpantenaValpolicella
Casalforte, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, Italy, 2019
Lovely combination of ripe cherries, a herbal lift and vanilla notes. Luscious with a lot of concentration, polished.
2019
CasalforteValpolicella
Dal Cero, Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2019
Juicy nose of red fruit with peppery nuances. Fresh on the palate, fragrant and light. Classic example.
2019
Dal CeroValpolicella
Guerrieri Rizzardi, Cuvée XVII, Valpolicella, Classico, 2020
Cinnamon-like nose with fragrant red and black fruit notes. Quite concentrated, round and ripe, with fair acidity.
2020
Guerrieri RizzardiValpolicella
La Giuva, Il Rientro, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, 2018
Fresh and dried fruit notes with sweet chestnut undertones and hints of forest nuances. Round, with a spicy-toned finish.
2018
La GiuvaValpolicella
Le Salette, Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2020
Lifted nose of dried herbs and black pepper with juicy strawberry. Lovely concentration and zesty acidity on the palate.
2020
Le SaletteValpolicella
Luciano Arduini, Costelonghe, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2018
Savoury nose with notes of cassis, violets and oak. Crisp acidity on the palate, with fleshy fruit flavours.
2018
Luciano ArduiniValpolicella
Mizzon, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, Veneto, 2017
Spicy nose of vanilla, black pepper and cherries. Tangy acidity on the palate, with quite a lot of concentration.
2017
MizzonValpolicella
Rubinelli Vajol, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2018
Spicy-toned red fruit aromas with mushroom notes. Fleshy and ripe on the palate, supple, with a peppery finish.
2018
Rubinelli VajolValpolicella
Speri, Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2020
Ripe red berries with very floral notes and spicy tones. Leafy on the palate, very balanced and peppery.
2020
SperiValpolicella
Tedeschi, Capitel Nicalò, Valpolicella Superiore, 2019
90
Rich red fruit with some developing coffee aromas. Compact on the palate, with some weight and savoury notes.
2019
TedeschiValpolicella
Torre di Terzolan, Valpolicella, Superiore, Veneto, 2017
Fresh nose, fragrant with floral-toned cherry aromas and tobacco notes. Seductively fleshy, with a dense mouthfilling concentration.
2017
Torre di TerzolanValpolicella
Ugolini, Pozzetto, Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2018
Very floral, pretty aromas with hints of herbs and blossom. Fresh and juicy, with light tannins and fine boned structure.
2018
UgoliniValpolicella
