Vinho Verde: 20 of the best tasted and rated

What is Vinho Verde? ‘Young, fresh and light,’ the marketing trumpeted but, these days, Vinho Verde’s Wine Commission is keen to broaden perceptions beyond the classic, slightly pétillant, non-vintage blends.

As are the Guedes’ family who, in addition to making the best-selling classic, Casal Garcia, now produce sophisticated single-parcel Vinho Verdes under their Aveleda brand. Today, there’s plenty more on offer than ever before…

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 20 top Vinho Verde wines

The classics remain ‘the backbone of the region’, says Dora Simões but, as the commission’s new president pithily points out, Vinho Verde ‘is a demarcated (DOC) wine region, not a wine’. Or, as a BBC presenter might say: other styles of Vinho Verde are available. As my selection reveals, they are many and diverse.

In fact there were two Vinho Verde gold medals in this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards – both from opposite ends of the price spectrum. Adega Cooperativa de Ponte de Lima’s Loureiro 2022 and Anselmo Mendes, Parcela Única 2020 – a follow-on vintage of one of my top 20 selections below).

The key styles

Single-vintage, still, dry styles have mushroomed, the best of which are concentrated, terroir-driven and age-worthy. After all, Vinho Verde is a large region, with nine sub-regions and a variety of micro-climates.

Lighter styles have diversified too, as new-wave Vinho Verde producers explore ‘glou glou’ (a term used to describe youthful, eminently quaffable wines which are impossible to put down) and low intervention whites, reds, rosés and pet-nats. Excellent espumante (traditional method sparkling wines) are also made.

Irrespective of varieties, terroir and winemaking philosophy, freshness is a given.

With much-improved viticulture (25% of my selection is certified organic or biodynamic), better fruit intensity means entry-level wines no longer require the traditional crutches of residual sugar (to balance acidity) and petillance (to counter the residual sugar’s softness).

That said, surfing the pet-nat wave, pétillant styles like Chin Chin from Quinta do Ermizio (only available in the UK) have become retro-chic. Some are even naturally pétillant, thanks to old-school malolactic fermentation in bottle (as opposed to carbon dioxide injection).

Regional variation

Departing from classic blends, many top single-varietal Vinho Verdes play to sub-regional strengths.

There’s more flesh on the bones in warmer, drier, inland sub-regions – notably Monção and Melgaço (the Alvarinho specialist) and Baião (where the Avesso grape is a rising star). Producers here use different techniques to bring complexity, mouthfeel and finesse to concentrated citrus and stone fruit.

Greater Atlantic influence (including higher rainfall) tends towards pretty, floral or zestier lime-driven styles in Lima, where the delicate Loureiro grape reigns supreme.

Other white varieties showing their mettle include Arinto and Azal, which lend themselves to leaner, meaner, mouth-watering styles. Vinhão (all assertive tannin and acidity) and Alvarelhão (softer, more beguiling) have become the focus of red wine ambition.

Looking ahead

Nowadays, ambition is not confined to the locals. Vinho Verde’s success has attracted prestigious outsiders, such as Douro-based leviathans Niepoort and Symington Family Estates Both have partnered with Anselmo Mendes. Having led Vinho Verde’s quality charge together with Soalheiro, Quinta do Ameal and Aphros, the winemaker is delighted about receiving recognition from big Portuguese players.

This and Vega Sicilia’s acquisition of a big Rías Baixas property over the border highlights Vinho Verde’s trump card. As Mendes explains: ‘For now, global warming’s impact is not felt in the region, or only in a positive way.’ That’s certainly true of 2022, an extremely hot, dry year across Portugal.

Vinho Verde: 20 top wines tasted and rated

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