Walls: Exploring Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret
In the first of a series of columns exploring the little-known but increasingly good quality villages in the Côtes du Rhône, Matt Walls takes a look at the village of Séguret and recommends 22 wines to try.
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When I saw the first upside-down village sign, I put it down to some bored, teenage prankster. But as I drove through one village after another on my way to Séguret, every village sign had been inverted. It transpired that this was a sign of solidarity for local farmers who feel under attack.
Their protests have since made headline news around the world, as agricultural workers have blocked roads and dumped manure in front of municipal buildings across France. There are many tangled grievances: burdensome paperwork, painful taxation, increasing energy bills, rising prices of other goods, and competition from cheap imported food and drink.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 22 Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret wines to try
Winemakers are suffering alongside other rural businesses, but they’re also facing a sustained drop in demand for red wine from their own countrymen. Young people don’t drink wine with every meal like their parents might once have done, and everyday consumption is on the wane.
As stated in a report published in February 2024 by the International Organisation for Vine and Wine, total French wine production has significantly decreased since 2000. ‘Red wine production has declined significantly both in absolute and in relative terms,’ says the report, ‘from 33.5m hectolitres in 2000 (56% of the total) to 12.2m hectolitres in 2021 (33% of the total).’
It’s a tough time to be a vigneron.
Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret: Factfile
Appellation created: 1967
Total surface area bottled in 2022: 432ha
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Average yield in 2022: 35hl/ha (maximum 51hl/ha)
Production in 2022: 92% red, 3% rosé, 5% white
Permitted grape varieties:
Reds and rosés must be a blend of at least two principal varieties (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) and must include Grenache; 17 other local varieties also permitted.
Whites must contain a majority of principal varieties Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier; may also include Piquepoul Blanc and Ugni Blanc.
Less but better
I met up with two growers when I arrived in Séguret, who are also the co-presidents of the appellation: Mathilde Suter, fourth-generation winemaker at Domaine de l’Amandine, and Karine Mérigot, one of just five female members of the 100-strong Cave Coopérative de Roaix Séguret.
Mérigot points out that it’s not easy to name many estates these days who manage to stay afloat from selling Côtes du Rhône alone – the drop in demand in the local market has been particularly acute at the cheaper end. Fortunately, both producers own some land within Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, one of the 22 named villages that sit just below the nine southern Rhône crus (Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas etc) in the appellation hierarchy.
None of the 22 named villages are household names, but they do guarantee that the wines come from a specific village or terroir with its own local story and style. And crucially for winemakers, they fetch higher prices. Suter’s Côtes du Rhône costs €8.50 (£7.30) direct from the estate, while her Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret cuvées cost €10 (£8.55) and €13 (£11.15). Still affordable for us as consumers, but still – crucially – sustainable for them. Without this extra lift, ‘life would be hard, really hard,’ says Suter.
Different sites, different styles
One thing is clear – it’s worth trading up. Séguret is a stone’s throw from Gigondas, and like its more famous neighbour it has significant vineyards at altitude within the Dentelles de Montmirail massif, an area called ‘La Montagne’. There are also some parcels around the picturesque village of Séguret itself, and just over half its vines – ‘La Plaine’ and ‘La Première Terrasse’ – are on the flatter land at the foot of the massif towards the river Ouvèze.
There are good wines from each of the different zones, but they are stylistically quite varied. The mountain wines, made from vines grown at 400m altitude on heavy marls, tend to be stronger in character: imposing, structured, long-lived (like those from Domaine de Mourchon, Domaine Eyguestre and Domaine Chamfort). Those lower down are planted on a complex matrix of clay limestone, sand and pebbles; they aren’t so dense, but have an enjoyable vibrancy and drinkability (such as Domaine de l’Amauve, Domaine de l’Amandine and Clos du Joncuas).
The whites have all the classic richness and intense flavour you’d expect from this part of the world, and are more or less aromatic depending on how much Viognier is used. Whites and rosés are both particularly reliable for the southern Rhône, and refreshingly unembellished compared to the barrel-aged whites of Châteauneuf. Growers are busy planting more white varieties to meet the demand.
Promotion to cru level is a possible aim, but ‘the difficulty is the difference between the mountain and the plain,’ says Mérigot. It’s hard to talk about a single style of Séguret when the wines that issue from these different sectors have their own identities, despite both being delicious and valid in their own right.
Trading up
Wines from the generic Côtes du Rhône appellation have long been known as a source of great value. But there comes a point where prices become too low, and winemakers suffer as a result. Nobody wants that. There is no easy answer to the maelstrom of problems winemakers are suffering, particularly those making inexpensive reds. But as a simple cri de coeur if nothing else, I understand their need to remonstrate and bring attention to their plight.
The French appellation framework is often the target of invective – too restrictive, too slow to change. Such criticisms aren’t unfounded, but the system has its benefits too. Intermediate levels between generic wines and crus encourage growers to focus on quality, and can help them keep their heads above water at times like this. And for us, they’re a mark of inexpensive terroir wines that punch above their weight.
22 fantastic Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret wines to try
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Malmont, Blanc, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Aromatically restrained, but really quite grand on the palate, expansive. However good acidity seeps in through the rich pear flavour, giving the wine breadth and length, with a dry, slightly nutty finish. A very good example of a pure southern Rhône Roussanne that's well balanced and not overly oaked. Fairly young vines grown up in the Montagne, two thirds vinified and aged in stainless steel, the rest in one-year-old barriques.
2022
RhôneFrance
MalmontCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de l'Amauve, La Daurèle, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

<p>Very pale in colour. A restrained and delicate style of Séguret blanc on the nose, majoring on honeysuckle. Still one with power and breadth on the palate however, with an assertive texture. Subtle banana and pear flavour, ending on a dab of honey and some noble bitters. Grown on La Plaine and La Première Terrasse areas. Fermented in tanks and barriques, matured on the less for six to seven months.</p>
2022
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Domaine de l'AmauveCôtes du Rhône Villages
Malmont, Petit Blanc, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Really quite full-bodied and generous, brimming with Williams pear flavours, then closing with a dry, resonant finish. Powerful, large-framed, flavoursome – but all in balance. Some toasted almond flavour at the end. Grown at altitude in the Montagne, fermented with natural yeasts, just stainless steel.
2022
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MalmontCôtes du Rhône Villages
Clos du Joncuas, Domaine La Garancière, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Bright and pure peach flavour and aroma. Very clean and fruity with a touch of ripe peach sweetness at its heart. Straightforward but pure, fresh and drinkable, in an aromatic style.
2022
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Clos du JoncuasCôtes du Rhône Villages
Laurent Bellion, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Strong peach aromas suggest a large proportion of Viognier. Full-bodied with a slightly oily texture. It does have freshness however, and well-balanced acidity. Powerfully flavoursome, with huge impact. HVE certified.
2022
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Laurent BellionCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de l'Amauve, Le Rosé de Simone, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Pale powder pink. Fruity strawberry and watermelon aromas, and it’s soft and silky on the palate with well balanced acidity. Good length of fruit too. It's generous, flavoursome and well balanced, very good for the region. Short maceration in the press, partly fermented and matured in barriques, but has no overt oak influence. Grown on the Plain/Première Terrasse.
2022
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Domaine de l'AmauveCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de Mourchon, Family Reserve Grenache, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

Lovely blackcurrant note on the nose, unusual for Grenache, with some well-integrated oak spice. Full-bodied, juicy, succulent, with lovely driving acidity and tense, crunchy tannins. A wine that has really used the vintage to its advantage; pure Grenache can be overly alcoholic and soft in hot vintages, but in cooler ones like this it has the necessary structure to hold the fruit together. The oak becomes more noticeable with air (it's aged in demi-muids for 18 months) but should be very good in time. 15.5% alcohol, but it holds it remarkably well. Grown on grey sandstone soils on steep slopes at 350m above sea level. In conversion to biodynamics.
2021
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Domaine de MourchonCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de Mourchon, Grande Réserve, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2020

A very interesting, complex nose; it's quite animal in fact, with gamey and smoky notes. Powerful, full-bodied, intense and concentrated, this has tons of impact and force. The alcohol is quite high, which is unavoidable for a wine of this concentration and ripeness. But the payoff is great depth, complexity and grandeur. Matured for one year, 60% in large oak containers and 40% in concrete vats. In conversion to biodynamics.
2020
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Domaine de MourchonCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de Mourchon, Grande Réserve, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

Full-bodied, but juicy with brisk, vibrant acidity. Remarkably fresh, with subtle violet hints to the blackberry fruit. A tense and upright style, as is common for the vintage. Enjoyably thirst quenching despite its power, for now; it will gain interest in time, and could be very long lived. 14.5% alcohol and doesn't feel unbalanced. Aged for one year, 60% in wooden vats and 40% in concrete vats. In conversion to biodynamics.
2021
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Domaine de MourchonCôtes du Rhône Villages
Malmont, Rouge, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

Smoky graphite notes on the nose. Good freshness and purity on the palate with brisk acidity and fine, ripe tannins. This has played the rather chilly vintage well, resulting in a wine with tension, freshness and drinkability, but not at the cost of ripeness and terroir expression. Very successful for the vintage. Fairly young vines grown high in the Montagne, low yields, no additions apart from a small dose of sulphites. In conversion to organics.
2021
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MalmontCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine Chamfort, C'est Beau Là Haut, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

Very pure Grenache with a smoky, flinty top note. Easy-going, succulent fruit with good acidity, a sense of structure and tension and a long finish. Surprisingly structured and upright for a pure Grenache. Vines around 50 years old, the grapes were hand harvested and fermented with natural yeasts. Matured for 12-18 months in tronconic French oak barrels.
2021
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Domaine ChamfortCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de l'Amauve, Laurances, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

<p>With its notes of fresh forest berry fruits, this is crisply structured, with a lovely sense of tension and vibrancy, therefore exhibiting all the more positive elements of the 2021 vintage. Great energy and vibration. This is well balanced, fresh and drinkable. Fermented in concrete, matured on the less for six to seven months. Grown on La Plaine and La Première Terrasse areas.</p>
2021
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Domaine de l'AmauveCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de l'Amauve, Estelles, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2020

<p>Soft, yielding, easy going and juicy. The alcohol is high, but this has juicy, succulent plum and blackberry fruit. The oak lends a welcome, seductive sheen to the ripe fruit, and the overall effect is highly delicious, concentrated and impressive. A glass would be enough however, as this is highly potent! Grown on La Plaine and La Première Terrasse areas. Partly matured in oak barrels, from new to third use.</p>
2020
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Domaine de l'AmauveCôtes du Rhône Villages
Laurent Bellion, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2020

A really enticing, smoky, spicy aromatic display, showing cardamom, wood smoke and cedar. There is lovely sweet fruit melded with star anise on the palate. The alcohol is really quite punchy, but this has huge impact and complexity. It really demands some meat cooked over fire to match it. Impossible to deny the complexity and power, but one glass is enough! A blend of three plots located at an altitude of 250m on west-facing slopes. The soils are made up of white clays and blue marls. HVE certified.
2020
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Laurent BellionCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine des Bosquets, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

A touch of smoky reduction on the nose, then a fulsome and velvety sensation on the palate, generous but fresh. There are really plush tannins, and it’s remarkably ripe and juicy. Lovely acidity, and more concentrated than many 2021s, but without any excess alcohol. The oak is very well integrated. Syrah matured in barriques, Grenache matured in concrete, for one year.
2021
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Domaine des BosquetsCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine Le Souverain, Marquise, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Abundant savoury blackberry fruit leads to a really quite full-bodied, powerful, potent palate that shows a sappy liquorice flavour. The alcohol is quite marked, but there's also good acidity and surprising freshness. This is very Gigondas in style, much more so than Sablet, and should age with interest. The oak is quite marked but well integrated. Made by Eric Chauvin, fifth-generation winemaker, who works organically. The grapes were destemmed, and there were no yeast additions, followed by nine months in American oak.
2022
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Domaine Le SouverainCôtes du Rhône Villages
Les Vignerons de Roaix Séguret, Sélection Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2020

Soft, harmonious and yielding, this still has good fruit, it has power but doesn't feel excessive and the length is good. It’s significantly more interesting than a standard Côtes du Rhône, with more depth and presence. It’s a selection of the domaine’s best parcels, with vines over 40 years old, and aged for 18 months in barrels.
2020
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Les Vignerons de Roaix SéguretCôtes du Rhône Villages
Clos du Joncuas, Domaine La Garancière, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

Enjoyably ripe for the vintage, with precise berry fruits and good acidity. Fresh, with a little aniseed note in the background. No great concentration or ripeness, but very drinkable. Vines are on sandy, pebbly soils. The wine is fermented in cement tanks, matured briefly in stainless steel, and bottled without fining or filtration.
2021
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Clos du JoncuasCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de L'Amandine, Bel Air, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2020

This spends one year in oak, but it has very little aromatic stamp on the wine. A fresh, spicy style of Séguret that's immediately winning on palate, with elegant tannins and good acidity. Ready now, no need to wait. Not hugely concentrated, but enjoyably crisp and fine. Pair this old-vine cuvée. with lighter dishes, nothing too heavy. In conversion to organics.
2020
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Domaine de L'AmandineCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de Mourchon, Tradition, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2021

Fresh, if not terribly expressive, this wine has a juicy and softly rounded palate with good acidity. Structured with a sense of tension and power even if not hugely concentrated. Matured for 18 months in concrete tanks. In conversion to biodynamics.
2021
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Domaine de MourchonCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine Fontaine des Fées, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2020

This is majority Syrah, and it tastes that way, with intense blackcurrant fruit and a dense weave of matted tannins. Powerful, with high alcohol and a big structure, but it’s fresh too, and will take on complexity in time. Vines grown on the Plain, this is 50% whole-bunch fermented with no added yeast, then matured in concrete tanks and 25% barrels.
2020
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Domaine Fontaine des FéesCôtes du Rhône Villages
Rhonéa, Terroir Daronton, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Séguret, Rhône, France, 2022

Fresh, fine, and well balanced, this does have some power but it's matched with freshness and acidity, leading to a fairly long finish. Certainly a cut above an average Côtes du Rhône.
2022
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RhonéaCôtes du Rhône Villages

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.