New Zealand sparkling wine – the fizz to follow

As you enjoy a glass of festive fizz, take yourself back to the start of 2000 and consider this commentary on the state of New Zealand sparkling wine: ‘If you can imagine an oloroso Sherry with bubbles, you will understand why we did not linger… They were made from poor-quality fruit and showed a lack of sparkling wine technique… The Blanc de Blancs was the worst of all, with thin, unripe fruit, which lacked acidity because, ironically, it had been deacidified.’ So wrote Champagne and sparkling wine writer Tom Stevenson about the New Zealand fizz scene some 23 years ago. Mercifully, there were glimmers of hope in his scathing criticism – he also commented that ‘the potential of Marlborough for sparkling wine is, so far, beyond dispute’. Today, not only Marlborough but many other New Zealand wine regions have fulfilled that potential, producing sparkling wines that are very good indeed. Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 19 top New Zealand sparkling wines to try [subscriber-content]New Zealand’s sparkling wine history extends quite a bit further back than 2000, however. The first traditional-method fizz was made by Hawke’s Bay’s Mission Estate in 1963 – though while the method of its sparkling pink Fontanella may have been traditional, its use of Pinot Gris was decidedly less so. Selak’s Champelle followed in the 1970s, but it was the 1980s when things really started to ramp up. This was the era of Champagne Deutz’s Marlborough investment, Cloudy Bay’s Pelorus and Daniel Le Brun transferring his 12 generations of Champagne roots to Marlborough. Further south, Rudi Bauer (now of Quartz Reef) and partner Clotilde Chauvet (who was also making Champagne in Rilly-la-Montagne) were making strides in Central Otago . Daniel Le Brun remembers his amazement at encountering Marlborough vineyards for the first time in 1978. ‘It was perfect conditions that summer, there wasn’t a clump of grass anywhere… just a small amount of topsoil then nothing but gravel – fantastic! I thought, this has to be the place.’ The generosity of spirit of pioneers such as Bauer, Chauvet and Le Brun helped other producers gain knowledge and confidence, and alongside the burgeoning local production was increasing investment from France, not only with Deutz but also in time from Chandon, Mumm and LVMH (who purchased Cloudy Bay outright), which provided technical finesse and international attention. Charms and challenges What was always clear was New Zealand’s excellent raw material for high-quality sparkling wine. The country’s wine regions (with the exception of the slightly more temperate far northern climes) are classical cool-climate viticultural environments. Allied with high UV/sunshine hours and significant diurnal shifts these deliver good phenolic ripeness without high sugar (alcohol) and retain decent natural acidity. For sparkling wine, this translates to precise fruit expression, laser-like acidity and rich palate fruit weight. Producers benefit from these benevolent growing conditions which allow the focus to be on getting things right in the winery. That part, however, is easier said than done. The challenge for New Zealand sparkling wine producers in a young industry already operating within a high capital-cost environment is the significant investment required for specialist sparkling winemaking equipment, and the luxury of capital and space to hold back stock for reserve wines. For many, the latter is simply not an option and vintage wines are common as a result. But collaborations are a frequent solution to the former problem. It is quite common for producers to share in or make their sparkling wines at another winery with the gear. For example, a number of Marlborough producers use No.1 Family Estate as a processing facility. Soljans is an Auckland home for others. Boutique industry Sparkling wine is produced the length and breadth of New Zealand. Distinctive regional expressions range from the weightier fruit of Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne to the rapier precision of Central Otago. The majority are made in the traditional method, aided by widespread planting of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir plantings ( Pinot Meunier is the rarity). There is also a solid range of Charmat (tank-method) wines and an increasing number of quirky pétillants naturels . As might be expected, Marlborough’s produces the lion’s share. It's nearly 3.5 times that of Hawke’s Bay, which in turn is about twice as much as Gisborne and three times as large as Central Otago. In 2023, total New Zealand sparkling production was 1.7% of the national harvest and 2.7% of exports. While exports have steadily crept up over the past decade, production share has been in steady decline, down from 5% in 2005 and 3% in 2011. Labour of love This seemingly downwards slide is not quite what it seems. Instead, it reflects the ever-increasing dominance of Sauvignon Blanc , now 78% of the total harvest. And fortunately, sparkling producers remain undeterred. Johanneshof Cellars’ Edel Everling says: ‘It’s definitely labour of love; a passion. It’s hard to get a return due to the hand labour involved but it’s a point of difference for us. It satisfies our curiosity for what our vineyards can do.’ ‘We have only done it for 33 years so we are still learning,’ she laughs. For Daniel Le Brun’s daughter Virginie, being asked ‘Can it ever really be as good as the real thing?’ generates a look of polite disdain. For her, there is no longer any need for comparison. The better question is, how good can New Zealand sparkling wine be? And when will its reputation catch up with what is being delivered in the glass? Perhaps now’s the time for more consumers to find out. [breakout] [caption id="attachment_519929" align="alignnone" width="630"] A bubbly logo identifies the 12 producer members of Méthode Marlborough.[/caption] Méthode Marlborough Méthode Marlborough is a society of 12 like-minded Marlborough sparkling wine producers. Established in 2013, it aims to promote the benchmarking, understanding and enjoyment of quality Marlborough sparkling wine. All Méthode Marlborough wines are grown, bottled, matured and disgorged in Marlborough, and made in the traditional method from one or a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Wines must be aged for a minimum of 18 months on lees from the first disgorgement but, in practice, members’ wines average 36 months on lees. Member producers – whose wines can be identified with a back-label emblem – celebrate Méthode Marlborough Day with consumers each March and provide one another with collaboration and support. [/breakout] [/subscriber-content] New Zealand sparkling wine: 19 exciting wines to try [wine-collection] Related articles Australia, New Zealand & South Africa Pinot Noir: Panel tasting results Champagne alternatives: 25 great bottles to stock up on Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022: 15 wines under £20

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New Zealand sparkling wine – the fizz to follow

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