Anson: Tasting top La Conseillante and Figeac vintages

As Pomerol in ripe vintages so often can be, this is very 'heady', and undoubtedly a wine for the hedonist. The overt swathes of violet and geranium hint at a more new world style. There is freshness on the palate that just about holds the opulence in check with a deft balance and refreshing finish.

Truffle and black fruits, a lovely wine that is offering a ton of pleasure right now. It has more density and tannic frame to its black fruits than the 2005, with an emphasis on dried herbs and dark chocolate, and clear fresh acidities that give it a more austere feel than in many vintages. 80% new oak. A yield of 42hl/ha.

This vintage is sometimes forgotten but is tasting open and ready right now; a sculpted, elegant style of La Conseillante. There is a higher acidity than in some, a result of a complicated growing season particularly during harvest, but the fruit is very much in evidence, and the wine has savoury raspberry leaf notes along with crushed mint on the finish. A yield of 34hl/ha. 80% new oak.

Beautifully ripe plum colour here, this has an opulent texture with creamy fruit and cigar box, with a confident interplay between ripe generous fruits, soft-spoken tannins and teasing acidity that allows for a mint-infused mouthwatering finish. Clear mid palate expansion here also, filling the mouth with seductive Pomerol flesh. A yield of 39.5hl/ha, 100% new oak.

A little darker and deeper in colour than the 2009 at this stage, but both remain young, fresh and full of promise. The depth to the fruit is evident, black cherry, chocolate shavings and black truffles with great shots of acidity through the entire body of the wine. Just dripping with succulent fruit and seduction, this is the most Pomerol of the lineup, surprisingly, perhaps, taking that crown from the 2009. Still young even at 11 years old, will settle in and open further over the next few years. Violet aromatics curl out of the glass as it opens. 85% new oak. A yield of 39hl/ha.

This has always been one of my favourite vintages of La Conseillante. Here a little Cabernet Franc (11%) goes a long way. Ethereal and utterly beautiful on the nose. Soft, delicate, elegant and subtle. Intensely floral, with violets and little hedgerow spring flowers, freshly cut. Has an exquisite balance and harmony, even if it might be said to lack some of the density of ostensibly greater vintages. I can live happily with that; though I’d drink this sooner. Very attractive and the very essence of plateau Pomerol for me. Soft and seductive, with those little truffle notes, blueberries and raspberries; tender and lithe, nicely compact and juicy on the finish.

The nose here is incredibly concentrated but slightly inexpressive. Loaded with dark fruit, violets and dark chocolate. Incredibly silky on the palate, almost voluptuous with lots of padding and power. Incredible balance and length. A very serious wine. Uber-fine tannin which is perfectly integrated. Flawless and seamless. Although this is sensational now, I would be inclined to leave it a few years.

I love the depth and character to the fruits on this wine. Still extremely young, in a closed phase with plenty of tannic grip, but there are layers upon layers of blueberry, cassis, raspberry, mint, saffron, slate and liquorice. Clear acidity also, ensuring this succulent, juicy character to the fruits. A brilliant example of an excellent vintage in Pomerol. 70% new oak. A yield of 39.5hl/ha.

A lighter vintage overall, with delicacy and finely-spun tannins. The fruit is sculpted raspberry and red cherry, clearly will be ready to drink before the 2015 and 2016, lots to enjoy with delicate tomato leaf, grilled oak, chocolate shavings and liquorice root. Not too much frost here at La Conseillante, just one small plot at the bottom of the vineyard, so yields were 34hl/ha. 70% new oak.

This is beautiful and powers through the palate showing depth and concentration to the brambled fruit. It has an excellent mid palate, the truffle of Pomerol comes through at this young stage in a way that was not evident in the 2015 even, but here has a lovely seductive kick. Spicy vanilla bean and black pepper alongside touches of cinnamon, this is very good quality. A yield of 32hl/ha. 70% new oak, 3% in amphora for the first time.

This is opulent, round, packed full of blueberry and blackberry fruits and definitely living up to the promise of en primeur. High floral aromatics also, with peony and iris set against smoky-edged charcoal and flint flavours as it opens in the glass. Unfiltered and unfined at this point. 70% new oak, 3% in amphora. A yield of 34hl/ha.

This is an excellent vintage to drink now, with huge amounts of liquorice, cedar, crème caramel, bilberry and black cherry, with a fleshy texture to the fruit but just starting to show more tertiary notes of earth, crushed stone and soft mint on the finish. Feels like the pefect Right Bank take on a Left Bank, generous and open but with a steely core and tannins that remain sure to take this wine forward over many decades to come. This was Thierry Manoncourt's last full vintage, as he died in 2010 (his first had been 1947).

Saffron, cigar box and gentle white pepper spice - beautiful secondary aromatics that come in waves inside the mouth. Gently whispering tannins, white truffles and a drench of salinity on the finish. Hard not to smile when drinking this. Drought conditions, with 25% less rain than average, meant that 1989 was the second earliest harvest at Figeac since 1893, with picking running from 11 to 29 September. This was reconditioned in 2016, something the estate does every 20 years or so. Last tasted two years ago and still absolutely delivering.

Clear truffles, tobacco, cold ash, earth and gentle raspberry fruits, finishing up with saffron and a mouthwatering salinity on the finish. Easy to drink, savoury and gentle and unquestionably on its tertiary phase, but full of cheer and life still, a totally gorgeous wine that begs for a good book.