Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riserva: 10 picks from a triumphant return to form

‘Riserva is the first wine I forfeit to make a better Brunello,’ declares Tommaso Cortonesi (Cortonesi). In 2019, he and his colleagues didn’t need to make such sacrifices.

Given the sheer number of bottlings previewed – upwards of 100 – 2019 is unequivocally a Riserva year. Even the most selective producers made a separate Riserva bottling – at Le Potazzine, it was only the estate’s fifth ever. ‘We try not to make Riserva in merely good and regular years,’ explains proprietor Gigliola Giannetti.

At cool heights, she looks to warmer vintages that give more intensity, structure and density. It is among 2019’s Riserva triumphs.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’s selection of the best Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riserva wines

Favourable weather and good yields

While the growing season was very warm, it wasn’t marked by extremes, and the ideal amount of rain fell at opportune moments. ‘Above all, significant diurnal temperature variations allowed for wines with great structure and longevity,’ explains Francesca Bindocci (Tenuta Il Poggione).

Beyond the favourable weather conditions, generous yields meant that producers weren’t hampered by limited quantities.

Of course, there are always exceptions, such as San Polo, that sat 2019 out. ‘We have chosen to favour cooler vintages that yield an elegant, refined expression,’ states winemaker Riccardo Fratton.

And Alessandro Mori (Il Marroneto) opted for 2020 over 2019 to make his second-ever Riserva – but more on that when it is released next year.

The quality of offerings from 2019 restores faith in the Riserva category, which in lesser vintages can feel weary after the additional year of maturation, or barely differentiated from the annata bottlings.

This problem persists in some examples in 2019, however more live up to the true spirit of Riserva.

Read: Brunello di Montalcino 2020: Vintage report and 20 top picks

Worthwhile additions

This is a testament to the producers who have a well defined concept and follow through in the vineyard and cellar. It is particularly admirable that in a warm vintage like 2019, these wines still convey the freshness I prized in the annata bottlings, along with balance and ageability – even after lengthy maturation.

In general, the Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riservas don’t equal the profundity and tension of 2016, the last significant Riserva year. Nevertheless, they reach a fascinating level of opulence with more obvious power than their annata counterparts.

On one end of the spectrum, a velvety plushness is enticingly epitomised by Il Poggione’s Paganelli and Sesta di Sopra, while at the other end Poggio di Sotto and Conti Costanti are built around steely tannins. Then there is Baricci’s Nello, which seems wholly laden with fruit until a complex structure matrix takes hold.

Capanna and Padelletti are more elegantly sculpted yet still decidedly firm. When the pendulum finally rests, it lies perfectly centred on Fuligni.

With ageing potential between 10 and 20 years, the vintage’s many successful Riservas will make worthwhile additions in the cellar alongside the annata – and the top examples are worth the extra price.

Click here to view all Brunello Riserva 2019 wines from Michaela’s report

View all 129 of the wines included in Michaela’s Brunello report, including late-release bottlings

Which Brunello Riserva 2019 should I drink and when?

In terms of ageing, the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019s fall loosely into two categories: those that will be approachable upon release and may be enjoyed anytime over the next decade or so, versus those that demand more time and can be cellared for 15 years, or even longer.

Drink now and over the next 10+ years

Capanna

So securely knit, I’d even bet on this to age into its twenties, if properly stored.

Gianni Brunelli

Champions the enduring qualities of transparency and finesse over sheer power.

Il Palazzone

Brilliantly preserved freshness will continue to illuminate this wine as it gains in maturity.

Fossacolle

Already in a comfortable, mature groove but not ready to call it quits anytime soon.

Cortonesi, La Mannella

Quite simply, the best wine I have tried from this estate – and may keep performing well beyond a decade.

Needs time

Baricci, Nello

A fitting tribute to one of the founders of the Brunello consorzio, this captures the spirit of Riserva.

Fuligni

Exquisitely balanced and promises to remain elegantly poised for decades to come.

Poggio di Sotto

Unequivocally says ‘hands off’ but begs to be revisited in a few years’ time.

Le Potazzine

While almost impossibly embryonic now, it is showing just enough to reassure of a long and lively future.

Sesti, Phenomena

An otherworldly paradox of amplitude and weightlessness. Perhaps timeless as well.

Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riserva: Michaela’s recommendations, from top-scorers to value picks

Click here to view all Brunello Riserva 2019 wines from Michaela’s report

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