Discovering Montepulciano d’Abruzzo: 40 wines tasted and rated

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is the flagship wine of Abruzzo, accounting for over 80% of the region’s DOC production. The soft, round, full-bodied and juicy red wines are made from the Montepulciano grape which grows and ripens best in Italy’s southern half.

Abruzzo is dominated by around 40 co-operatives making approximately 75% of all wine produced here, but it also has a roster of independent producers making good wines at reasonable prices. A small handful of pioneering producers, including Emidio Pepe and Valentini, make wines that stand head and shoulders above the majority of wines made here, and are held up as benchmarks for quality not just in Abruzzo, but across Italy.

Scroll down for the top 20 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine tasting notes and scores

With the total area under vine reaching 9,325ha (2018), Montepulciano d’Abruzzo covers a vast area. The western part of the region is mountainous, so vines are only grown on the foothills and the plain leading to the Adriatic coastline to the east.

Established in 1968, the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC’s regulations stipulate maximum vineyard elevations of 500 metres above sea level – although sites with a southern exposure can be planted up to 600m, which helps to counteract the strength of the midday sun.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is produced in all four provinces of Abruzzo – L’Aquila, Pescara, Teramo and Chieti – the latter producing the largest total quantity of wine. There are also five smaller, deliniated sub-zones producing high quality wines with stricter regulations: Alto Tirino, Casauria, Teate, Terre dei Peligni, and Terre dei Vestini.

Riserva

A number of producers also bottle a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva. Regulations vary depending on the sub-zone, but minimum alcohol is slightly higher and ageing requirements range from a minimum of 24 months up to a minimum of 36 months, with at least some of the time spent in oak.

During this tasting, it was the Riservas that particularly stood out, combining the softness of the Montepulciano grape and its elegant tannins with concentration, structure and complexity from longer ageing.

DOCG

The Colline Teramane bordering Le Marche in the north of the region has been singled out as a superior site for Montepulciano and has had its own DOC since 1995, which was upgraded to the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG in 2003.

Regulations for this DOCG differ from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC in that the wines must be a minimum of 90% Montepulciano and up to 10% Sangiovese from vineyards up to 550 metres above sea level. Minimum alcohol is 12.5% and minimum ageing is 12 months, including two months in bottle.

Colline Teramane wines were not included in this tasting.

View all 40 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo tasting notes from the tasting

The (many) regulations

A maximum of 15% of other local varieties can be added to Montepulciano, and the wines must be aged for a minimum of four months. Minimum abv is 12%. The appellation’s five sub-zones all differ in their regulations. making it a bit of a minefield to work out exactly what you are getting in a bottle.

Alto Tirino Minimum 95% Montepulciano; minimum 12.5% abv; minimum 12 months ageing.

Casauria/ Terre di Casauria 100% Montepulciano; minimum 13% abv; minimum 18 months ageing, including nine months in barrel.

Teate Minimum 90% Montepulciano; minimum 12.5% abv; minimum 21 months ageing, including nine months in barrel.

Terre dei Peligni Minimum 95% Montepulciano; minimum 12.5% abv; minimum 24 months ageing, including nine months in barrel.

Terre dei Vestini Minimum 90% Montepulciano; minimum 12.5% abv; minimum 18 months ageing, including nine months in barrel and three months in bottle.

Montepulciano vintages

2019 A cool, wet spring delayed ripening but the vines caught up throughout a hot summer and mild autumn.

2018 A warm, wet spring threatened vines with downy mildew. A hot summer was followed by rains in late September. Harvest was not completed until early November.

2017 A hot, dry vintage began with frosts which affected yields, followed by extreme drought in parts of the appellation during the summer which forced an early harvest.

2016 Spring frosts were followed by an average summer and a cool, damp autumn.

2015 A relatively average year until a hot September forced some growers to pick early.

Tasting

This tasting comprised 40 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, including several Riservas, kindly organised by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo. The best examples displayed delicious aromas of black cherries, red and black berries, and scents of herbs, potpourri or tobacco on occasion. The wines are typically soft and plump in the mouth, with juicy flavours of plum, black fruits, violet, chocolate and subtle spice.

Generally speaking, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is an accessible wine to be drunk within the first two to three years, especially when matured in stainless steel, although some examples – particularly those matured in oak – can be cellared for longer.

See the top 20 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo tasting notes and scores:

View all 40 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo tasting notes from the tasting

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